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Old 10-06-2009, 03:33 AM   #1
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I am looking for some help.We will be using the furnacein the Kingston SK 33 which has a register located in the back in the floor and it looks like the register willblowheat on the chairs' wood legs which will dry out the wood. Has any one addressed this area with a change of some sort? We have thought about changing the register and adding one that you can shut off, but then how would you keep that area warm?
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:46 AM   #2
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Our Paradise Pointe has the same setup.I replaced that register and the other one in the living area with adjustable ones. When we use the propane heater (maybe once or twice a year) I close that one off to keep from heating the chairs. We still get plenty of heat out of the other vents. Kind of a dumb design if you ask me. You can get the adjustable registers at Home Depot.
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:30 AM   #3
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Hunter, placing a register in that place does seem not to bright, we have to get one from Home Depot, we will have the furnace on as the temperatures will get into the 30s
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:36 AM   #4
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Take one of the plastic ones with you to get one that is the right size. If I remember correctly they were the ones for mobile homes but work fine in the RV.
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:45 AM   #5
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jallen,

We camp for about 6 months up here in Ontario Canada so at both ends of the season it gets cold at night and in my 33SKI found that 2 registers, 2 ft apart in the upper bedroom elevation, (one right in front of my shower door where i wanted to put a mat), were a bit redundant and it got too hot when the door was closed, so I blocked off the shower one and put in new metal registers in all the rest of the furniss openings up and down. This forces more heat into the lower floor elevation and the new registers have closing louvers so I can also keep some of the heat away from the back chairs.

It is a lot more comfortable now throughout the trailer and I hope to insulate the floor of the bedroom (the ceiling of the storage pass through) and also the front storage area ceiling (I was surprised to see it was not insulated!) Plus I have todirect a little of the blocked upper register air flow down into this area to keep it and the equipment down there, warm.
I wish I knew hot to get insulation into the floor of the closet area as it is always cold as well.

I am also trying this thin plastic film to put on the windows as they are a huge heat loss. SO far I have had not bad success with stuff that you put on with tape and then use a hair dryer which tightens it up so it is clear and wrinkle free like glass. It has eliminated most of the condensation on that window.
Thanks Ken
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:29 AM   #6
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I was kinda shocked that the Kingston doesn't have a very well insulated basement, too. We like the double rear sliding bunk model. However, I felt the finish work, lack of insulation, thin baggage doors and plumbing were just to sloppy in there compared to the Keystone Mountaineer, Jayco Eagle and KZ Durango that have similar better finish models.



Luckily, I'm not in a hurry to "shop" and won't start considering it until later next year when my truck is up for lease. Hopefully Crossroads does some reading here and works on the Kingston line a bit considering it is pricey compared against the Jayco and KZ which also carry 2 year warranties and have great reputations.



I would buy the DOW foam sheets and cut to fit between the alum. floor stringers or buy some Astrofoil bankets to put between them.
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Old 11-02-2009, 11:10 AM   #7
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merrifik, we have replaced the register in the back where the chairs are with a adjustable one as Hunter II suggested.It sounds like you are getting it under control, how cold did it get while you were in Ontario Canada?

In the bedroom I do not sleep very well so I go down to the lower levelin early am and shut the bedroom door and dw says she gets cold, so if I shut one of the two registers off I will need to use a small electric heaterwhich will not be a problem.

I need to look at front storage area also. I looked under the unit and was thinking abouttaking bottom covering off and insulating,thatlooked like quite a job.

mwebber78, the reason we ended with the Kingston, we were on a camping trip with our 2003CrossRoads (and it was a great unit and had a very good insulation package, like r14 in the walls and etc.) whileon the road had a break down, we could have gone home and come back after it was repaired which was several hours and several days (they had a leftover 08madeus a deal so we can spend a little on it and be ok),or trade so we traded and I did not check the winter package in the Kingston out, we thought it would be the same package as the 03 and itis not what I would have wanted but that is my problem andwe will live with it. You are correct our neighbor has just purchased one of the units you mention, its winter package is much better but not as good as the 03, now it seems that the good package we had in the last unit is now called artic package in some of the other brands. I do not know if CrossRoads even offer a better package in the units they make today.
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:49 PM   #8
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"I would buy the DOW foam sheets and cut to fit between the alum. floor stringers or buy some Astrofoil bankets to put between them."



I have done this to our PP. I used 1" DOW ridged foam between the stringers in the pass thru storage area and under the bathroom. I then covered it with Astrofoil bubble wrap. It does make a difference in keeping the bathroom/bedroom floors warm during the Winter and cooler during the Summer.



The biggest problem our trailer had and I am quit sure others have you just don't know it is the insulation under the bedroom overhang. The plastic outside covering was hanging down so low when our trailer was delivered I had 1" clearance between it and my truck bedrails. Crossroads had a guy come out to the house and remove the covering to add more braces and fix it the way it should have come from the factory. I was amazed when we removed the outside cover and could see the bottom of the bed area that all the insulation had fallen down and was just laying on the plastic covering. While we had the cover of the overhang off I went ahead and glued it back up to the floor under the bed and ran 1X2's across the braces so it could not fall again. It was almost like they threw the insulation up in there then put the bottom cover on thinking no one will ever see it. SoI would say if your bedroom area floor feels cold in the Winter odds are your insulation has fallen down under the bed and doing you no good.
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:46 AM   #9
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Hunter 11, I think that must be the problem with the closet area for sure! I suspected that was the case and planned to use the same foam you did yours with. Thanks for confirming that for me although I cannot imagine it is an easy job to take the underside off. Did you see how it was done by the factory rep and if so can you give us some info? Ken
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:48 AM   #10
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jallen, the temp got down to about 30 degrees F some nights in the spring and fall. Ken
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:59 AM   #11
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It was a mobile RV tech they sent out not a factory rep. I was home and helped him with the repair and I would not do it again just to check the insulation. It took us a good 1/2 day to get it off and back on and completely caulked back up. It would be a real pain to do it by yourself. Although if you do a lot of camping in cold weather and were going to keep your trailer for a long time it may be worth it. I know on our unit the insulation was not doing much good hanging down against the 5th wheel overhang. Like I said it looked like they had thrown bat insulation in there and figured no one would ever see it. I was a little pissed when we got the cover off and insulation started falling out.
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:28 AM   #12
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merrifik, thanks for the info.



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Old 11-03-2009, 10:32 AM   #13
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HunterII,DOW foam sheets and cut to fit between the alum. floor stringers I need to do this to the front , did you glue the foam up?
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:46 AM   #14
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No I did not. It is cut just a tad larger than the space between the stringers and forced between them. We then put bubble wrap across the stringers to finish it off. I used self tapping screws with large washers to attach the bubble wrap to the aluminum stringers then finished off the edges with aluminum AC/heating tape. It took the wife and I the better part of a day to do the job. We even did the inside of the front storage area the following morning.
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Old 11-03-2009, 11:15 AM   #15
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HunterII, thanks when I getour unit back from warranty work I will get that done.
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Old 11-03-2009, 11:41 AM   #16
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Hunter 11, once again thanks for that info about how difficult it was. I agree that it is irritating that the insulation ends up just lying in a heap on the underside of overhang. As you said there is not much justification to do it unless you end up running into the same problem you had and a mobile RV tech is sent to correct it. Ken
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:57 PM   #17
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I used 1&1/2 in. ridgid insulation. 2 4x8 sheets did passthrough and front storage compartments, all ceilings. Plus I did a wall between passthrough and front storage. I also changed all registers over to the adjustable ones from Lowes. Next spring will do kingpin area and insulate underbelly.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:31 AM   #18
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cwit, When you insulated the walls, did you go to a thinner foam insulation or still used the 1 1/2" and what did you do to secure it to the wall. The pin area as Hunter pointed out, that would be a difficult challenge, I don't think I would attempt that. But I do believe because of the water lines running for the washer I don't think there is much, if any insulation in that area. As far as the underbelly, it looks like a two person job and a lot of screws and some brackets that you would have to remove. Have you ever performed that task before?
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:53 AM   #19
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Cwit, I imagine that it changed the comfort level in the bedroom area/bathroom considerably when you were finished. Sounds thorough and well done. Let us know how you tackle the kingpin area and pics would be great if possible. (Not asking too much am I ? LOL) Ken
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:57 AM   #20
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I used all 1&1/2 in. insulation . There was a lip at the top to hold the insulationand I found plywood to put a 1 by 4 across the bottom on the front storrage side. On the passthrough side 3/4 in. Aluminum angle screwed to the floor . I used ductwork tape on the ceiling and 2ins screws with with roofing washers to hold up ceiling. I just hope insulating the front helps on the propane ussage. and I should have no problems with pipes freezing in the passthrough. I may do the kingpin area when we are in Florida this winter. Yes I will take pictures, but I have to get dear wife to post them.
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