Cargo Area Insulation

[yukon_jake]

I have a 2013 Crossroads Zinger 28BH and was wondering if anyone has insulated the cargo areas. I am thinking about using the 1" pink board and cutting it to fit between the 1x slats and possibly adding a second layer on top. I have on a few instances felt a bit of condensation on the headboard. I would also like to place some pink board on the slide wall behind the sofa sleeper and the booth dinette.
Most of our Spring and Fall Camping will be done in South-Central Indiana and the nights can get chilly. Any helpful suggestions would be great.

Thanks,
Yukon_Jake

[gball]

I have insulated the cargo areas in the last 2 trailers that we have owned with the type of material that you are thinking of using. It takes a little time to install, but I think that it does make a difference. Two ways for installation: cut it a little larger and wedge it in or use liquid nails for a more permanent installation.

[Dayle1]

Also used the rigid foam board as George stated. Cut it a little large, wedged it in and then used clear caulk around the edges just to make sure it would slip down over time. Regarding a second layer of insulation on interior walls, I don't think that will help with interior condensation, instead a combination of better air circulation and a dehumidifier will likely be more effective.

[Lloyd]

I did this same mod some years back. I believe I used 1&1/2 in. rigid wedged in between the floor supports then I covered it with silver bubble wrap.

I agree with Larry. The only way to help control the condensation when you are dry camping without electric, is ventilation. We leave the vent in the bathroom cracked open and a window on each end of the camper cracked open.

[yukon_jake]

Thanks everyone for the positive responses. I do need to clarify, we do not dry camp. I am just looking to tighten up the camper and give us a bit more insulation. Before this unit we had a Dutchman Hybrid amd I used Reflectixin the front and rear bed areas and under the beds.

[LeBo]

We use a small dehumidifier for about $135 from Walmart. It works great in keeping things dry and moving the air helps too.

[johnboytoo]

Do be careful with insulating TOO well...

When I was MUCH younger I enclosed a patio off the dining room and 'sealed' it too well - sometimes it would drip INSIDE from the humidity it trapped...

and actually that was a GOOD thing... if it had just been going on behind the wood roofing where we wouldn't have seen it, would have been much worse.

ended up building a vent system to get the humidity out...
industrial size dehumidifier couldn't keep up with the moisture a family of 4 put out

[Dayle1]

Originally Posted by yukon_jake

Thanks everyone for the positive responses. I do need to clarify, we do not dry camp. I am just looking to tighten up the camper and give us a bit more insulation. Before this unit we had a Dutchman Hybrid amd I used Reflectixin the front and rear bed areas and under the beds.

One of the biggest insulation failures is around the refrigerator. There is no insulation in the cabinet walls, just 1/8" paneling on the inside. But the compartment has two vents thru the exterior wall/roof, so temps behind the refrigerator are pretty much the same as outside air temp. So, roughly 24 square feet of wall area with zero insulation. My thermostat is located on the cabinet wall and could not possibly maintain the right temps. Also the cabinet above the refer and the pantry next to it were useless in the summer heat.

Anyway, I removed the refer and added a double layer of 3/4" rigid foam board beside and above it. Made a big difference, now the thermostat works like it should. Much less heat gain or loss thru the cabinet walls, probably better insulated than the exterior walls. Also since my refer is in an angled cabinet, I found that CR did not install an airflow barrier to keep air flowing over the coils, I fixed that also so the refer works better as well.

[RADMiller]

Originally Posted by Dayle1

One of the biggest insulation failures is around the refrigerator. There is no insulation in the cabinet walls, just 1/8" paneling on the inside. But the compartment has two vents thru the exterior wall/roof, so temps behind the refrigerator are pretty much the same as outside air temp. So, roughly 24 square feet of wall area with zero insulation. My thermostat is located on the cabinet wall and could not possibly maintain the right temps. Also the cabinet above the refer and the pantry next to it were useless in the summer heat.

Anyway, I removed the refer and added a double layer of 3/4" rigid foam board beside and above it. Made a big difference, now the thermostat works like it should. Much less heat gain or loss thru the cabinet walls, probably better insulated than the exterior walls. Also since my refer is in an angled cabinet, I found that CR did not install an airflow barrier to keep air flowing over the coils, I fixed that also so the refer works better as well.

Have you heard of any other TTs or 5th wheels that have the insulation problem around the reefer?

[Lloyd]

Mine had the same issue.