CF30SK insulation between Bed and Bath??

cliffw42 · 01-25-2009, 09:03 AM

Has anyone installed insulation (read sound-proofing) in the wall between the bedroom and bath?
DW would like some sound proofing there, and it looks like something could be put in the hollow wall (foam, pink board, etc) to help cut down on the transfer of sound. If anyone has done this, could you give me any tips/hints?
Thanks.
BTW, I just finished installing the plugitright stabilizers, and Equa-Flex suspension. Stabs were a piece of cake. The Equa-Flex had a learning curve on the first one. The second one was much easier. Now, I'm an expert

. Seriously, I did learn that you want to install the spring ends first (the spring ends farthest away from the equa-flex, then the spring ends at the equa-flex, finally the equa-flex itself gets bolted on. If you try to do it in the reverse order, the final spring bolt is really a challenge, requiring jacks, pry bars, beer, cussing.....

Cliff

Hunter11 · 01-25-2009, 09:08 AM

Hey Cliff, I am looking at installing the plugitright stabilizers on our PP. Can you give me some idea on about how long the install took you and did you install the fronts and rears or just the fronts? Thanks

cliffw42 · 01-25-2009, 09:31 AM

Hey Keith,
I think it was about 2 hours...but I wasn't rushing it. I installed front and rear (total of 6 bars). Very simple install, the bars are, basically, two round pipes that slide one in the other, with a bolt with a handle to tightens them together. There are fittings on each end to bolt them on. One end bolts (or screw-drills, depending on the space available) under the rig, the other end bolts on to the jacks. On the front jacks, one bolt holds both stabs. On the rear, you remove one bolt from the base plate of the jack, and replace it with a supplied bolt to secure the stab to it. BTW, when you install them, the instructions say to attach them to the frame first, then to the jacks, but I learned that, for me, it worked a lot better to attach to the jacks first, then to the frame. Kinda like the equa-flex, the first one was lots harder than the rest (benefits of experience

).
It seems to work pretty well, but I'll have to wait until our next trip, for the acid test. If DW doesn't complain about the movement when I walk "heavy", then I'll know they are worth it.
I know you have been on this forum from the get-go. Do you recall anyone insulating the wall between bed and bath?
Cliff

Edited by: cliffw42

Hunter11 · 01-25-2009, 09:45 AM

Cliff, I have never heard of anyone insulating between the interior walls. Short of pulling the wall panels off on one side I am not sure how you could do it.

BDLuke · 01-25-2009, 10:36 AM

I'm not sure on the PP. But on the Cruiser, to secure the PlugitRight front two stabilizer bars I had to bolt an angle iron across the front. There was only the storage pan to bolt to and you will need a good solid foundation forthe system to really lock down tight.

I would be careful about injecting foam into your walls.I would think that it may cause the walls to bulge if compressed. Could you cut holes near the top and blow in insulation and then cover the sealed holes with a crown molding?

You must be pretty noisy in there if you need sound proofing. I hope the neighbors aren't catching wind of that racket.

Edited by: BDLuke

KHUNLINDA2003 · 01-25-2009, 01:09 PM

I tell you what we did to diminish the noise without adding insulation. Â*We put a empty dishwashing bottle with a little amount of liquid soap and one without soap and use that to flush the toilet and wash our hands. Â*When empty you can fill up in the kitchen sink. Â*Otherwise it will require insulation in both the wall and the ceiling and I think that would be a real job. Â*Try it you may be satisfied.

BDLuke · 01-25-2009, 11:20 PM

So you have the water turned off and rise the bowl with water from the bottle without soap? Good idea.

I replaced my noisy flusher with aAqua-Magic Style Lite. Much quieter then the Aqua-Magic V that came with the camper.

The cheapest solution I can think of is a set of ear plugs. Used them all the time at my hunting club. Them boys snoredand were alwaysbumping around in the middle of the night.

cliffw42 · 01-26-2009, 12:10 AM

Our problem is that when you flush the toilet, the flapper is spring loaded and "pops" when it shuts, which wakes the other person up. Seems like it wouldn't matter where the water comes from, the popping would still occur.
I guess I will try opening up one of the panels to see what's there, and maybe putting the "pink stuff" in there. If that doesn't work, maybe a different style toilet, as mentioned above, might work.
Thanks for the input.
Cliff

BDLuke · 01-26-2009, 01:42 AM

I hear you, they should require decibel ratings on those things like they do generators. In fact, a Honda gen is quieter then my old toilet. Edited by: BDLuke

cwit · 01-26-2009, 06:33 AM

I don't think the walls are thick enough for insulation to help you at all. I do agree the new toilets are awfull and we want to change ours. I have a friend with a china built and you don't here a thing.

BipeFlier · 02-12-2009, 09:10 AM

How about a sheet of foam insulation on the beadroom wall, then cover with cloth or something like it to make it "pretty"?

buddhabob1 · 03-14-2009, 01:48 PM

Im not sure if CR has put a different one in ours but it is whisper quiet!!!!!

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