Dedicated outlet

[Lloyd]

When ever we have tried to run an electric heater on high, it runs just so long and then shuts down. I have always blamed the light wire they run to the outlets.

Yesterday I strung wire and installed another outlet in the rear of the camper. I used 12-2/G. I don't have an empty slot in the breaker panel to put another breaker in, so I tied it in with the AC breaker. That is a 20 amp, and seeing as we won't be running AC when we are in need of the heater, it should work just fine.

After checking out my install, I started the heater on high. The amp meter only dropped two amps, so that made me happy.
We should be good to go.
Now just have to check out those other receptacles.
Larry Day posted about having run into trouble on them in his rig, so it will be good to check things out.

[mark5w]

Lloyd, was there open slots on your fuse/breaker box to do this?

[Lloyd]

No. Like I stated in my first post, I hooked it to the AC breaker.

[Kamper Dave]

Lloyd,
We did a similar upgrade a few years back.
Now we have an extra 12-2/G cable that runs out to the campground pedestal. This cable directly supplies a dedicated Leviton outlet with an associated stand alone circuit breaker. Into this dedicated outlet we plug in a LUX programmable thermostat and from there the space heater. The LUX thermostat and is the boss; the thermostat on the space heater is a backup safety in case things run away.
The RV gas furnace thermostat is set a little lower; when the electric heater cannot supply enough heat then the gas furnace saves the day.

[Lloyd]

Dave, you have installed a "true dedicated outlet". I never thought of doing it that way. Genius.
I guess all I had in mind was getting something with better/heavier Ga. wire that I could plug a heater into and not have to worry about it melting the wire.
I don't have any room left in the breaker panel for another breaker, that is the reason I tied into the AC breaker. I figured that was the one to use, it's 20 amp, plus I won't being using the AC and the heater at the same time.

Which LUX did you install?

[Dayle1]

Originally Posted by Lloyd

Which LUX did you install?

Lux WIN100. I use two of them on two different electric heaters. They have there own thermostat and since it is at the wall plug, it measures the worst case temperature of the coach. They use a battery for the microprocessor, but mine are going on 4 yrs old and still have the correct time. I leave them plugged into the outlet all the time and just store the heater for travel.

I can leave the RV in the morning and know that the heaters will turn off when temps rise. Like today, 50 F in the morning and when I came back at 1pm outside temp was 70 F and the heaters were stone cold, having been turned off by the WIN100.

[Kamper Dave]

• As Dayle said the LUX WIN100. If you purchase ($35.00) one then you'll like it. It is Programmable and has an Over-Ride feature and an On- Off switch.
• I also installed a LUX in the basement where it controls two 60 watt light bulbs at 45º F; even at 8ºF outside.
• When using electric heat there is no flow through the furnace ductwork so there is no heat to the belly tanks during those cold snaps. We purchased a small, quiet electronics fan to keep air moving through the ducts.
• I see why you used the A/C breaker. It was just easier for me to use the rear electric cabinet to mount all of the parts.

[Lloyd]

Thanks. Lux100 on order.

[LeBo]

Thanks for all good ideas.

[Kamper Dave]

Now that the RV is home we captured some photos:

[Igmire01]

What a great idea! Looks like I have an upgrade project to do this summer.............

[Lloyd]

We got to try out the outlet and the new heater this week.
It worked great!! Just the way the way it was suppose to. I have an inline volt meter in the camper, and the power only fluctuated 2 or 3 volts when running on high.

I didn't need the LUX WIN100. In fact it wouldn't work with my heater.
I purchased a Lasko Digital ceramic tower heater. (model #5165)
When it runs on high. You can set it for automatic. So it will shut down and turn back on. I was really impressed with it.

[mmorris]

For many years, I've used a dedicated outlet so I can run and EXTRA ceramic heater, without blowing the circuit breaker. I found an outlet box that had a MALE, three prong connector in the box and a weather proof cover. Mounted it outside and ran a short wire from it to the inside of a cabinet and put an outlet there to plug the heater into. To power up the dedicated outside outlet, I simply run a 20 amp extension cord from the campground pedestal and plug the female end into the male outlet box on the exterior of the camper. Works like a charm so I can run two ceramic heaters at a time.