Hot Water Ready?

[denism28]

Originally Posted by casmith

Well, I'm no expert but the circuit board has some inputs and outputs. I figure that the brown is an input and is calling for heat from the selected source. I think the signal leaves the board with the brown that is at the other end of the connector, goes through the thermistat and an overheat sensor and back to pin 1 brown. This is just a guess.

Look at the wiring diagram on the atwood instruction sheet. Very easy to understand. Thanks for explaining more in detail, it is much clearer that way for a non-electric working guy. I hope you will keep on adding details on my next gadget which will be something veeeeerrrryyy usefull and popular among my camping frien ds; how to get three intensities from the 12 volts dual lights .with a 1.00 switch.Meanwhile try to find the solution yourself , good luck , it can be done
Iswear. I did about 50 up to date. good luck.

[casmith]

Hi denism28,



I'm glad you approved of my supplemental write-up.

Your new "riddle" is very intriguing.

[denism28]

Originally Posted by casmith

Hi denism28,



I'm glad you approved of my supplemental write-up.

Your new "riddle" is very intriguing.

I'l give you a hint. You use a double pole double throw with center off switch.. Check on internet for explanations of that switch.

[casmith]

While I wait for more riddle clues, I'm looking into an easy way to "see" that both legs of the 50A serviceare hot after plugging in at a campground. This only pertains to the 50A 4 prong plug. The 30A plug will always put 120VAC on both legs. I had just one leg hot once and it had me pulling my hair out for a while. I solved it with my 30-50 dogbone.



At work, the hardware guys solved a customer problem by replacing an LED with an incandescent lamp to show AC being present. I had to ask... "Why use an LED to show that AC is present?" It was cheap and did the job. "But isn't an LED a DC device?" Yes, but 120VAC is equivalent to 84VDC and, every cycle, part of the sine wave is above zero. So using a 39K 1/4 wattresistor you can put an LED across 120VAC and "see" that all is Ok.



I had to try it and sure enough it worked. We had some spare LEDs that are panel mount that snap into a hole and look pretty professional. The other choice is to get the black plastic snap rings that can hold a regular LED the same way in a panel. I'm going to mount these in the same cabinet as all the switches. When both are lit, life will be good.

[denism28]

I’m not

familiar with 50 a </span>connection. </span>On a 30 a

</span>one round prong is the ground,

</span>One flat is the return and one is 120v.

</span>On a 50a I figure the round prong is the ground, one flat is the return

and </span>each other is 120v. </span><?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /></span>



</span></span>



I wonder

why the 35K ohms </span>Â? </span>watts.

</span>I figure one small LED in series with a 10k or 15k ohms and

connected </span>between each live prong and

return wire would do the job by showing if each prong or wire is live.</span>



A LED works

on either AC or DC. </span>On AC it makes some

dc current limited by the resistor.</span>



When I give

you the way to make a 3 intensity

</span>fixture with a two lights fixture, I will write a new post .</span>

[casmith]

The resistor wattage needed for 39K I come up withis .172 watts. That must be why they didn't use an 1/8 watt. After I wrote that last post, I did some math and I come up with about 8K to give about 10mills. But, an 8K resistor would need to be .82 watts. Seems to me that the ideal value in a 1/4 watt would be about 32K.My original thought was to use two incandescents not LEDs. Maybe I'll revisit that.