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Old 08-06-2009, 07:16 AM   #1
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Things have been kinda quiet on the forum so I thought I would post some mods I have made over the past 4 years. We have a 2007 CF29CK (really an 06) and havewintered south with the unit for the past 4 years and the unit serves us well.

Nobody has made the perfect trailer yet so the best we can do is fix themup theway we want them. Here is my list of things we have done to make our cruiser better for us.



1. Put hinges and door closer on island panel which accesses the hot water tank and the winterizing valves. ( whats with the 4 screws at each corner ?)



2. Replaced that Curtis home theatre with an LG. (never did figure out that cheapo Curtis)



3. Built 2 row shoe shelf in empty space between dresser and closet next to bathroom.



4. Moved closet rod back a bit so doors would close withoutpinching the clothes.



5. Added shelf and flip up cupboard door in top of island cupboards replacing the blank panel that was there.(Lots more room)



6. Added shelf and fip up cupboard door over entertainment centre replacing original blank panel .(still more room... Wife keeps paper products way up there)



7. Added switch to reset propane detector. ( it sometimes needed a reset and I had to find and pull the fuse to do it)



8. Added slide out drawer for pots and pans under stove ( used to have a flip down door- and an empty space.



10. Added full slide out drawers in pantry ( wife really likes that one)



11. Replaced step to bedroom carpet with oak step. (Looks so much better )



12. Added snap on cover over shower skylight . Helps darken bedroom at night



13. Modified curtains so day night shades don't catch on tiebacks. (wife always complained about those tie-backs catching)



14. Added plexiglass around stovetop to protect walls.(wife uses suction hooks and hangs spatulas etc on it too)



15. Removed tin flip down stove cover ( just don't need it)



16. Added room darkening roller blinds in bed room . They go right over the existing day night shades and now the bedroom is finally dark.(even if parked under a light)



17.Added extra bracing for shocks ( those 1/2 welded factory angle iron brackets were a sad joke at best.



18. Added an extra row of the grippy sandpaper like stuff on entrance steps. (it helps a lot)



19. Built good bike rack for back bumper. Added extra welds to bumper bracket for good measure. (The bikes don't shake or bounce a bit with a properly engineered bike rack)



20. Added a 2 cubic foot electric chest freezer .(parks at end of island, holds cold all day when on road without a problem). Now we can have ice cream!



21. Made rear stabilizers that go from top of one scissors jack to bottom of opposite side. A piece of 3/4 " tube that slides into a 1" tube with a Tnut in the middle to tighten. Easy to make and it really took the jiggle out of the trailer when moving around inside.



May do someday...



1. Put on equa-flex spring suspension kit (still pondering if we need that one)

2. Install a couple of 120V plugs in the underneath storage area and one underneath.( that plug behind the door when opened is a big pain)

3. Maybe install one of those multi speed /reversable fans in the kitchen/ Living area vent.

4. Build screw type legs for under entry steps to remove the bounce when entering /exiting

5. Get new Kitchen sink ( had to patch the plastic one when something hit it too hard)



Hopefully we don't go to an RV show and see some newer unit we just have to get. Then the mods start all over again!

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Old 08-06-2009, 07:55 AM   #2
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Thanks for the good ideas. Any pictures? Is the oak step slippery? And how did you modify the curtains? They are driving me crazy!
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:16 AM   #3
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I was impressed by obiwanobi's mods, so I thought that I'd include a few that I did on our CF30SK.

<UL>

<UL>



-Installed a home-brew accumulator on the water system.



-Mounted a doors on the water pump and water heater compartments.



-Installed another 12 volt light fixture over the counter beside the cooktop.



-Mounted two 12 volt fans at the back of the fridge to improve air movement over the coils.



-Mounted two rolling racks at the bottom of the sink cupboard for the pots and pans.



-Installed a 150 amp circuit breaker at the output of the battery.



-Replaced the velcro curtain tabs with stretch spring curtain cords.



-Replaced the velcro tabs on the curtain tiebacks with rings and wall hooks.



-Added a 120 V outlet to the other side of the bed.



-Fabricated two drawers and mounted them inside the vertical cupboard beside the oven.



-Installed a review camera system on the trailer for towing.



-Fabricated a bike mount receiver that is mounted to the back bumper.



-Installed a set of JT Strongarms.



-Connected the Batwing Antenna amplifier to the Curtis Radio.



-Integrated the Curtis Entertainment system with the television.

-Fabricated two plexiglass panels to fit over the screen door. We can now keep the door open for light and run the A/C without wasting the chilled air. (I forgot this one)





I see that obi had modified his shock mounts. Mine were done locally and paid for by Lippert because the shock mount welds broke. Because of the broken mounts, one of the shocks caught a tire and caused several thousand dollars damage which was paid for by Lippert and Crossroads.[/list][/list]


Future Modifications

<UL>

<UL>



-Replace the flexible heater pipes in the front of the trailer with solid pipes.



-Install a duplex receptable in the basement compartment.



-Install a 30 amp locking connector for the shore power cable.



-Move the closet bar back.



-Install a fixed towel rack in the bathroom.[/list][/list]Edited by: Hamops
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Old 08-06-2009, 01:16 PM   #4
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Another mod you may want, I have a TT and storage is short and only have under the bed and can access from the outside on both sides. Don't like keeping all my dirty blocks of wood etc, with all of my clean stuff under the bed. I went to an army surplus store and found some missle ammo boxes that are a standard width and height, but are about 4 foot long. I mounted 1 on each side of the TT with 1 in angle. I run the angle from 1 side of the trailer to the other side and now I have everything I need for each side near the wheels. If you do this make sure you move them out from under the frame to make them easier to get to.
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Old 08-06-2009, 01:54 PM   #5
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I'm interested in hear more about the following ,,,,,





21. Made rear stabilizers that go from top of one scissors jack to bottom of opposite side. A piece of 3/4 " tube that slides into a 1" tube with a Tnut in the middle to tighten. Easy to make and it really took the jiggle out of the trailer when moving around inside.
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Old 08-06-2009, 04:23 PM   #6
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Let's see;

1. I added hinges to the doors under the sink to access thewater heater. they were just screwed in place. Found hinges and handles at Lowes that matched the rest of the cupboard doors..

2.the panel covering access to the water pump is next. I am talking to the guy doing the cabinets for my kitchen remodel to make two doors toreplace theflat panels that are held in with screws.

3. I moved the closet rod.

4. Since mine is an '05, it didn't come with a surround sound. I moved theSony unit from the house to the trailer and bought a new Yamaha system for the house

5. Installed Ultra fab stabilizers.

6. Changed out the stove burners to ones that have a sparker instead of match light.

7. Changed the bed mattress out for a "eurotop" one. Much more comfortable. Like it better than the one in the house.

8. a whole bunch of little things I can't recall all of...

9. Still want to install a 120V outlet in the storage compartment.

10. Want to put in a sewer hose storage tube underneath. also a second one forfishing poles.

11. Want to change out the power cord for a removeable one.

12. one that I did do and am currently improving on... I put a shelf up high on the side of the kitchen cabinet just inside the door. I ranpower up to itand made a charging station for portable devices such as iPods, cell phones, walkie talkies etc. A place tosetand recharge them that is out of the way. It is easy access because it is just inside the doorand we don't have the devices laying on the counterwith wires and plugs cluttering up the area. I originally ran the power cord up inside the cabinet but now am working on tapping into the outlet near the counter and adding an outlet up high on the wall near the shelf to draw the power from.
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoetravel
Let's see;



6. Changed out the stove burners to ones that have a sparker instead of match light.




Shoetravel: How did you do this one? Is there a kit available for the cooktop? If so, do you have a part number for the kit.
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Old 08-06-2009, 11:54 PM   #8
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It was a pretty easy job but there was not kit. I had to get the parts indivudally. The owner of a local independant RV service place helped me go thru the parts catalogue and find the right parts. You need 3 new burners, the peizioignitor, the knob and the wire leads. Optional is the sticker to go on the front panel to label theignitor knob.

Parts, pricesare as follows;



Knob 51344 $3.75

Piezio ignitor 56096 $13.40

height tension leads (wires, you need 3) 57264 $24.75

burner 57205 $20.30

burner 57201 $20.30

burner 57203 $20.30



This is for the Wedgewood Vision model #R-V1733BB
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Old 08-07-2009, 12:26 AM   #9
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Goto guy was asking how I made the rear stabilizers.

2- 5 foot pieces1" square tubing

2- 2 foot square 3/4 tubing

Buy longer jack bolts (inexpensive hardware store stuff is fine)

Flatwashers or spacers

Drill hole in one end of each piece the same size as the jack bolts.

Drill another hole up about 2" on the other end of the 1" tubing ,and weld or have somone Weld a nut over this hole. * I used fine threaded nut for this

Have your welder make the T bolt or you can buy a regular knob with a thread (tractor supply had some)

Paint it nice

Assemble it using the washers /spacers so that when you crank the jacks up, the rods clear the middle bolts of the scissors jack.

Put one rod on the front side and the other on the back of the scissors jack.



Picture links

http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/obiwanobi/?action=view&amp;current=suestrip055.jpg





http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/obiwanobi/?action=view&amp;current=suestrip056.jpg

http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/obiwanobi/?action=view&amp;current=suestrip057.jpg

http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/obiwanobi/?action=view&amp;current=suestrip058.jpg
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Old 08-07-2009, 12:55 AM   #10
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W&amp;cferb asked a couple of questions....

Q. Is the Oak step slippery?

A. No more than the carpet was. I made it a bit wider than the original so there isbetter foot space than before.



Q. How were the curtains modified to eliminate the catching when shadesare pulled?

A. A Friend has a 2005 and back then they used a bracket at the bottoms and there were no tiebacks to catch. The bracket slips through the bottom seam of the curtains so there is not any sewing required.

I made the brackets out of 1/8" aluminum flatbar.

Some say they changed from this because the brackets didn't hold well in the thin panels on the wall. We have not had this problem but if we do I will make a backer plate for the brackets. Those tiebacks didn't work out for us!

Pictures below show the change:



http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/obiwanobi/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_0003.jpg

<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" />

http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/obiwanobi/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_0001.jpg
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Old 08-07-2009, 01:19 AM   #11
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obi:
Looks like you have done some nice mods. Wish I had seen or thought of your method for the stabilizers before I bought mine. Could have saved some $. Oh well, they are on there now and doing what they are suppose to. Again, nice looking mods.


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Old 08-07-2009, 04:21 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoetravel



It was a pretty easy job but there was not kit. I had to get the parts indivudally. The owner of a local independant RV service place helped me go thru the parts catalogue and find the right parts. You need 3 new burners, the peizioignitor, the knob and the wire leads. Optional is the sticker to go on the front panel to label theignitor knob.

Parts, pricesare as follows;



Knob 51344 $3.75

Piezio ignitor 56096 $13.40

height tension leads (wires, you need 3) 57264 $24.75

burner 57205 $20.30

burner 57201 $20.30

burner 57203 $20.30



This is for the Wedgewood Vision model #R-V1733BB




Thanks Shoetravel,

We have exactly the same range. I saw this mod before, and I thought that I could get the part numbers from Atwoods internet site but that was a bust. I've archived the part numbers for future use.
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Old 08-07-2009, 09:56 AM   #13
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Sounds like you have been very busy. I am interested in #13. How did you modify day/night shades so that they don't catch on the curtain tie backs. That annoys my wife also.



Thanks
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Old 08-08-2009, 01:32 AM   #14
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Did anyone modify the stove top burner? I have two "high only" and one adjustable flame. would like the other two to be adjustable also. any help is greatly appreciated. and DH is the handiest guy. Will a little direction he'll get right on it.

PS- i don't remember who suggested to build a step to get into the bed. but thanks as DH has the mod and the step on the closet side all done and an excellent mod.
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:06 AM   #15
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George, I remember I did a write up on the old forum but I can't find the old forum, maybe they finally took it down. Anyway I still have the photo that shows the parts needed.

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Old 09-04-2009, 11:03 AM   #16
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Thanks Obiwanobi for the pictures. I have a foulder underfavorite called RVDIY. If I want a picture for use later on I right click and click on favorites and at create i look for RVDIY, click on it and now it is saved for later use....handyhank
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Old 09-04-2009, 01:29 PM   #17
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If you do not have the Equa-Flex it is well worth it. Makes a dramatic difference in the ride the trailer sees. Be sure to do the wet bolt kit at the same time. I just added a wet bolt kit to my 2010 Cruiser. The trailer has less than 5000 miles on it and I found two spring plastic bushings that were worn all the way through.<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" />
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Old 09-04-2009, 01:47 PM   #18
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W&amp;CFERB.....I am not sure if they changed the stoves much but all burners should be adjustable from low to high. Pull off the knob and look inside the stem with a flashlight. You will see a small straight slot screw. That is your flame / gas flow adjustment screw. Turn the screw with a jewelers screwdriver to adjust the flame size and color. The flame should be able to go from full high to low with out going out and be a blue color without any/much yellow. Hope this helps.

























PS....I did the step mod for the DW to get into the bed as soon as we got back from the first trip. I agree it helps a lot.Edited by: Stan
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:38 AM   #19
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Obi

Thanks for the pictures for the stabilizers. I completed the project with ease, and the cost was worth the effort. Good explanation of what to watch out for. I did run into a small problem with my fresh water tank drain, it was close but I was able to clear. Really made a difference inside, No shakie shakie Thanks again

Almost done with the drawers in the pantry, another great idea says the DW
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:32 AM   #20
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Thanks, Stan, We will take a look next time we are out. DH said he thought the back two adjusted. I think he is not cooking inside much
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