New Bumper/Sewer Hose hmm

Aceallenk · 08-24-2019, 08:14 PM

OK, here's the scoop ! Changed the bumper to 1/4'' wall to attach a receiver hitch to the rear of the RV. In Saskatchewan you can tow your boat behind your RV. So today got everything welded on direct to the frame, got it all painted up and dry, made my end caps, installed the spare tire, and went to place sewer hose into bumper and nope, don't fit, so looking for a few suggestions to your sewer hose storage and location? Was maybe thinking a 6' length of black PBC 5''sewer hose if it works, and long enough. needs to be at least 4.5 inch inside diameter to also accept the sewer hoses twist on connector. Just going to add one mention, pretty sure I won't be towing the boat behind the trailer when the wind is blowing at 35 miles per hour or over, as the other day towing trailer with a 50 MPH side wind was a hand full. It wasn't whit knuckle, but was happy to get home also.

660catman · 08-24-2019, 08:55 PM

PVC pipe would work. You just have to figure out how to mount it underneath. I’ve heard of the Saskatchewan rule on pulling boats behind any trailer as long as lead trailer is dual axle and you’re within weight and length restrictions. Here in Manitoba lead trailer has to be a fifth wheel.

**Lloyd** · 08-25-2019, 06:29 AM

This is what I use.
I believe it's a 5in. plastic/composite corner post. I hinged the cap on one end and made a door out of it. Attached it with handy strap under the trailer from side to side. Drilled a few holes in the ends and bottom for ventilation.

Papa-T · 08-25-2019, 07:18 AM

Heres what I use.

**mark5w** · 08-25-2019, 11:28 AM

I use the same one as Papa T. Bolted a metal fence post side to side on frame and used stainless steel clamps to hold the tube onto fence post.

Aceallenk · 08-25-2019, 08:27 PM

Well with it being Sunday and all, with no lumber yards or building supply stores open in this neck of the woods today, and feeling the need to do something, I cut down the old bumper to exceed each side of the frames by 1.5'' ( I think 74'' about). I moved the rear stabilizer ahead 12'' and placed the 4''x 4'' old bumper sewer pipe 2'' behind it. I know the old bumper is a little more weight than other suggestions, but I can afford a few pounds off the tongue. Just need to finish the electrical to the back trailer plug and will need to hook everything together and make sure all works as planned. I chased all the wires in the front junction box and got a new cable wired in but still need to run that to the back 7 pole trailer plug. I changed the boat to a 7 pole for the simple reason that every trailer in the yard uses the same male 7 pole plug rather than play around with a bunch of different adapter plugs etc, etc. Thank You to everyone for your suggestions and assistance.

**mark5w** · 08-25-2019, 08:45 PM

Never a fan of storing hose inside bumper. Scrapes on the rust. But, sounds like you found a way to make a storage area for free. So, it will work for you.

Aceallenk · 08-25-2019, 11:07 PM

I hear you perfectly Mark5 about the rust and rough, but next time I'll use a better hose like Rhino. As far as free, well, I have to admit the install of a rear receiver hitch to a trailer must cost quite a chunk. I never priced it out before starting this little project but a couple grand can't be to far a stretch if you needed someone to do everything(electrical connection and chase the wires, welding, painting, sewer hose storage. I spent a long couple days already and if weather cooperates tomorrow i'll be completely done. The cost for just material will be right around that $300 Canadian money total, and thank God my neighbor did the 2 hours of steady welding for a 40oz crock which was only $60. Thankfully a have a pretty good tool selection and well dressed shop but not a welder, because my welds suck and always had a brother do the welding. Don't have to run often because I'm short a bolt or something, but do constantly replace materials as things get used. Lets just say I only needed the 4x4 and the female 7 to complete this job, had everything else. One thing i can guarantee, the shops that can charge $100+ bucks a hour aren't any faster than me, but I can also guarantee I'm pretty fussy, and when I plug in the boat and hook the truck, everything will work perfectly.. and at the end of the day it was relatively cheap, well I think that is !!

Papa-T · 08-26-2019, 05:59 AM

Final picture?

harley · 08-26-2019, 06:14 AM

As far as worrying about the hose rubbing on the rust inside the old bumper ...simply get a peice of plastic 3 3/4" wide and the length of the bumper to line th bottom of bumper. Hosesits on a nice smooth surface.

**dagst1** · 08-26-2019, 06:44 AM

I carry a cheap "dump hose" in the bumper the good hoses go in a tote in the trunk.

Russb · 08-26-2019, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harley

As far as worrying about the hose rubbing on the rust inside the old bumper ...simply get a peice of plastic 3 3/4" wide and the length of the bumper to line th bottom of bumper. Hosesits on a nice smooth surface.

I cut a piece of thin wall pvc pipe length ways and slide that into the bumper then set the hose in that. It protects the sides as well as the bottom of the sewer hose.

Aceallenk · 08-28-2019, 11:31 AM

Finished off the rear receiver hitch yesterday, got rained out Monday. I am missing the rubber end cap for the new sewer hose location but will purchase that next time to town at the local RV retail supplier which has a pretty good supply of most everything RV. Turned out quite well, happy with everything. Pulled boat up to the hitch to check lights and that all went as expected. Here's a couple pictures, there a little dull as the clouds dominate today, but it shows the sewer storage is still higher than rear stabilizer and won't bottom out.

sjk1998 · 08-28-2019, 11:48 AM

Nice job on the hitch. Where did you tap into the wiring for the rear light plug?

Aceallenk · 08-28-2019, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjk1998

Nice job on the hitch. Where did you tap into the wiring for the rear light plug?

I tied into it at the junction box at the front of the trailer where the front trailer cord ties into the trailer. I just had to identify the left and right signals, plus the tail lights (Ohm meter works great for this detail), then used a 14 awg extension cord to the rear of trailer and then just have to add the ground to trailer frame also at the rear trailer connection. there might be better cable choices but an extension cord cable is a healthy choice due to its multiple layers insulation capability and relatively cheap, but you do have to keep tract of the color track. When using the Ohm meter plug into trailer plug end and one at a time and in the box remove the mar and check for continuity. When identified mark them and replace the electrical mar. All you'll need is a electrical conduit to tie into the junction box at the front of trailer, easy-pees-y.

harley · 08-28-2019, 01:37 PM

Nice job , have aquestion , does provincal law requite the 1/2" collar at the end of the hitch reciever like it is on your truck hitch?

Aceallenk · 08-28-2019, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harley

Nice job , have aquestion , does provincal law requite the 1/2" collar at the end of the hitch reciever like it is on your truck hitch?

Good question Harley. It might, depending on the wall thickness of the receiver. When I picked up the steel the person said I needed this size steel and wall thickness for the receiver hitch. But when I go to the DOT (Department of Transport) with another question I'll ask that. As it sits right now and everything and everyone including insurance I believe I have everything legal and to spec. But I do have to add a little more insurance next year for a little more weight, and can only travel within this provinces borders. The tongue weight that this boat has is 45lbs, I weighed it this morning.

**Lloyd** · 08-28-2019, 06:50 PM

It would be a simple matter to get a length of key stock and wrap it around the sidewall at the end of that tube. That is what I did when I made an extension for a previous hitch.
Once you start welding it in place it will bend pretty easy as you get to the corners. Of course a big hammer will help.

sjk1998 · 08-29-2019, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aceallenk

I tied into it at the junction box at the front of the trailer where the front trailer cord ties into the trailer. I just had to identify the left and right signals, plus the tail lights (Ohm meter works great for this detail), then used a 14 awg extension cord to the rear of trailer and then just have to add the ground to trailer frame also at the rear trailer connection. there might be better cable choices but an extension cord cable is a healthy choice due to its multiple layers insulation capability and relatively cheap, but you do have to keep tract of the color track. When using the Ohm meter plug into trailer plug end and one at a time and in the box remove the mar and check for continuity. When identified mark them and replace the electrical mar. All you'll need is a electrical conduit to tie into the junction box at the front of trailer, easy-pees-y.

Thank you.

rhodesd · 09-02-2019, 07:15 AM

Did you build the hitch or buy it? If you bought it can you provide details on he make and model? I have a Crossroads 32BH that I want to put a hitch on back from a cargo and bike rack on. I want to tie it into the frame of the trailer to ensure I don't get to my destination to find it gone!

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