Power Tongue Jack Upgrade

[yukon_jake]

I am curious if someone can tell me what Brand/Model of Power Tongue jack came as the option for the 2013 Zinger 280BHS? It it Problematic? If you didn't have one from the factory, what brand/model did you install? What ones should I steer clear of? Can it be swapped out at home? I want to install one and want a good, reliable one that will be as trouble free as possible and one that will lift and lower the 6000+ unit. Thanks in advanced.

[MartyinSC]

I just did it with the cheaper 2500 lb Stromberg Carlson from CW. Good sale price and a $10 rebate coupon. A lot of guys are buying 3500 lb'ers, but come on, how heavy is your tongue? My 6000 lb camper has about a 700 lb tongue, at most. The little S-Carlson doesn't even strain. Installation is easy. Set your TT on the ball hitch of your TV. Then raise the crank jack and unscrew three bolts. Clean off the surface. Install the new jack with the same three bolts, but this time add star washers which are provided with the jack, to get a good ground. Disconnect battery negative terminal. Run power lead carefully, with appropriate slack, to battery positive, and tie strap in place. Reconnect battery negative. Voila! You're done!

[OhioMark]

Jake,

I had the Stromberg Carlson like Marty's that came with our 13' 300BH. It currently runs $165 bucks on Amazon.

Amazon.com: Stromberg Carlson JET-3700 Black 3500 Lbs Electric Tongue Jack with Light: Automotive.

Like Marty said, super easy to install.

If you never have a problem, I guess it's the way to go, but through no fault of the jack, I bent the outer down tube last summer when the trailer shifted while unhitching on unsteady ground. Totally rookie move. What was frustrating is I had just picked it up from Crossroads for warranty work and was 10 minutes away from the plant. But alas, it was a Saturday and could'nt get hold of anyone there.

What I found when I called Stromburg Carlson was that their jacks as well as a couple of the other brands of the cheaper jacks are not serviceable for parts beyond the light bulb, a switch and the outer shell.

I did some research and called customer service for each of the following Brands: Barker, Bulldog, and Ultra-Fab about replacing the same part I busted on my existing jack. Barker and Ultra-Fab had complete replacement for all parts on their jacks as well as a full two year warranty.

Bulldog has a nice 5 year warranty but not really serviceable beyond the switches and light bulbs.

I ended up getting a Barker at a great price and all parts are serviceable and includes a 2 year warranty. I paid $247 on Amazon.

For me, based on how easily it was to damage the down tube and the top gears do eventually wear, the decision was to pay the extra 100 bucks and have a full two year warranty and serviceable parts.

Good luck

[morphrider]

I like the sound of the Barker units since they have so many serviceable parts. What size do you gentlemen in here think I would need for the Z-218TD while hooking up WD bars? Leaning towards the 3500 for just a few dollars more.

http://www.barkermfg.com/uploads/5/4...93905_orig.png
http://www.barkermfg.com/uploads/5/4...67475_orig.png

[MartyinSC]

Originally Posted by morphrider

I like the sound of the Barker units since they have so many serviceable parts. What size do you gentlemen in here think I would need for the Z-218TD while hooking up WD bars? Leaning towards the 3500 for just a few dollars more.

As I mentioned earlier, I don't think the extra capacity is needed. What is a bigger concern is the size, especially the amount that sticks out below the mount. My Z-1 frame is very low to the ground, because the A-frame is mounted below the trailer frame. I had to make sure the thing retracted at least as far as the original crank jack. Mine did, and gave me about two more inches of clearance!

[hondavalk]

What's nice about having extra capacity with a jack is typically with a WD hitch you are using the jack not only to raise up the trailer but also your TV to ease hooking and unhooking your torsion bars.

[blkdth1313]

Originally Posted by hondavalk

What's nice about having extra capacity with a jack is typically with a WD hitch you are using the jack not only to raise up the trailer but also your TV to ease hooking and unhooking your torsion bars.

True Fact!

[morphrider]

Originally Posted by hondavalk

What's nice about having extra capacity with a jack is typically with a WD hitch you are using the jack not only to raise up the trailer but also your TV to ease hooking and unhooking your torsion bars.

That's the main reason for 3500#. It gets a bit tiring cranking the whole shebang up, lol.

[morphrider]

update to the thread, at least on my portion.

I ordered the Husky Brute 4500# unit. I know its overkill when my trailer is empty but when toys are loaded I am around 1400# TW with another 600# in bed of truck. Now if I ever need to raise the unit while its loaded the 4500# unit should have no issues at all. The price was good from PPl so order is placed. I think I will wire it with a connector to plug into my truck though since I store it without the batteries installed.