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Old 10-23-2013, 08:53 AM   #1
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Howdy
Winterized the RV the other day(09 Cruiser 30sk) & pumped nearly a gallon of antifreeze into the HW tank.The bypass & tank input valves were in the correct positions so it appears that the output check valvehas gone south.Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to change the valve? I can see that it will be awkward to get at. I ended up blowing the HW line, the cold line was ok.
I can see that the check valve is plastic my fear is breaking the damn thing trying to get it out, there seems to a lot of corrosion where it goes into the tank.
Thanks
Cal
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:20 AM   #2
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Dealer replaced mine with a valve. As I recall, the check valve itself is brass.
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Old 10-23-2013, 12:12 PM   #3
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maybe you should follow the check valve south.... then you don't need to worry about AF anymore
Sorry, but I don't have any useful advice....


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Old 01-22-2014, 08:12 AM   #4
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I have replaced the check valve in my old pop up. It isn't hard to do, other than getting it loose without destroying it. I brought the old one into Lowe's and got an exact replacement - maybe 8-9 bucks.
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Old 01-25-2014, 05:43 AM   #5
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Replaced mine last May. Some are plastic and some are brass according to the rv dealer near my home. The model I have is brass and the dealer had the part in stock. The only problem I had replacing mine was getting the old one out. It took a big ratchet and more force than I would have thought necessary to break it loose. You said there was a lot of corrosion where it goes into the tank but I wonder if it is actually pipe dope you are seeing. I wouldn't expect any corrosion between a plastic fitting and the tank unless there was some water leaking there. At any rate, it really is not a tough fix. I would suggest finding a socket that will fit over it and using a long handled ratchet so you can get plenty of leverage. You just don't want to use a wrench and have it slip off and "round off" the fitting. If that happens the only way to get it out is to break it.
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:10 PM   #6
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G'day
Replaced the faulty valve yesterday. Took 2 men a small boy & a monkey to break the old one loose but we managed with a few beers & some wine. It was a brass valve & I think it just had some dirt(?) in the valve. All is well with the world here in south Texas
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Old 01-30-2014, 11:23 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeeDee View Post
G'day
Replaced the faulty valve yesterday. Took 2 men a small boy & a monkey to break the old one loose but we managed with a few beers & some wine. It was a brass valve & I think it just had some dirt(?) in the valve. All is well with the world here in south Texas
cal
That beings up a good point...water heaters do accumulate residue minerals from heating up water. Many times, these P&T valves do open with an increase in either higher temps or/increase in tank pressure.
These minerals will not let the valve seat properly and thus leak.

It's not a bad idea to flush your tank regularly, removing the 3/4" plug. Some use dielectric rods, other do not.

6 months ago when draining, I had so much crud to flush out it reminded me to do again soon. Something that you should also do to your home water heater tank annually.

If you do flush and clean the valve regularly, the valve may not be necessarily replaced.
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Old 02-01-2014, 06:56 PM   #8
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I flush mine out and have never seen any "stuff" come out. I have always expected to but much to my suprise, never have. My previous 5er required an anode rod and it would show increasing deterioration every season. The problem with my check valve was the shaft that ran between the ball end that closees off the valve and the other end that retained the spring actually broke. This prevented the valve from allowing any hot water to flow through it. I discovered the problem when I was sanitizing the system and all of a sudden no water would come out of the hot side of any of the faucets. Glad it happened when it did and not out dry camping somewhere! I like a hot shower even if it has to be quick!
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