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Old 02-05-2016, 11:26 AM   #1
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Red face Water Heater By-Pass Valve????

I have a 2015 Longhorn Texas edition. Not only do I have one set of pipes and valves, I appear to have two, and neither of them looks like the pictures I'm seeing on-line. I need to get my fresh water from its tank into the water heater so I can have running water until my "winterized" water pipes unfreeze.

The first pipes are under the stove and are regulated through the water pump. I have two valves on two white hoses, each going in a different direction. The valves are VERY stiff and appear immovable.

The other tubes go directly into the water heater. One of them is attached between a short piece of red tubing that is connected to blue tubing and again to red tubing that goes under the insulated floor. The other is connected to blue tubing that seems to connect outside to the city water hookup, to a junction with the red tubing, and also to a blue tube that goes under the insulated floor. (all of these tubes feel room temperature).

The instructions in the manual say to make sure Water Heater By-Pass Valve is set to Normal Flow. There are no written indicators for that setting on either of these valves.

I do have really cold water, but how in the world do I get the water from my fresh water tank into the heater? If the pipes are frozen, will the water from the FWT even get there?

Thanks.
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Old 02-05-2016, 11:34 AM   #2
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Maybe this will help.

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Old 02-05-2016, 12:19 PM   #3
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Thanks, but my valves don't look like that. I appreciate the help, though.
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Old 02-05-2016, 01:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cesmart6 View Post
Thanks, but my valves don't look like that. I appreciate the help, though.
Can you post a picture so we can see what they do look like?
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Old 02-07-2016, 08:24 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by cesmart6 View Post
I need to get my fresh water from its tank into the water heater so I can have running water until my "winterized" water pipes unfreeze.
cesmart6
What do you mean by this statement.??? If your system is winterized why would your pipes be frozen.???
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:07 AM   #6
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There are different levels of dealer winterizing, as I am discovering. The best winterization comes from units that are specifically designated "all-weather," like Arctic Fox. My unit's weatherization consists of the underbelly being enclosed, the heating duct running down the center of the unit between the underbelly covering and the floor and certain areas of the plumbing being insulated.


What it does not protect are the low-point drains from the fresh and city water tanks, nor the black and grey tank valves. My low-point drains froze. I have installed heat tape on the sewer tank valves and have a heated water hose that connects to the city water supply. These areas do not tend to freeze as easily.


Next year, if we are full-timers still, we will install an insulated skirting around the bottom of the entire unit, and run a space heater inside it if the weather gets down to zero!
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:12 AM   #7
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Sorry for the delay in my reply. The person who moderates this forum replied. I can't figure out why the manufacturers don't include simple, complete schematics for each unit. Now, I need to stop a leak in my bathroom sink, and I either have to turn off the water and remove every screw I find, hoping that the plumbing is similar to landbased plumbing, or pay to have this unit hauled to some place 100 miles away!


Thanks for sending the picture. I appreciate your kindness.
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:49 PM   #8
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I have a question as well. I'm trying to winterize mine now. I have the same set up in my 2008 In order to use the by pass it should be open right? I found that it has been open since I bought it. And I was told not to get the RV Antifreeze in the tank is that right? So far I made the air valve for the city side of the water inlet and drained the Hot Water tank. My next step is to use my Air Comp to blow out everything then open my low points. Then I guess use the short hose and valve at the pump right? I have never done this but it looks pretty simple I guess. If not I'll have to fix a bunch of stuff in the spring LOL. If anyone can help I will listen. I don't plan on putting anything into it until I hear more about it thanks.
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:26 PM   #9
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You are over thinking here , do not make it difficult. Just did mine today with 2 gallons and re-cooped 1 gallon from the low points after.
By pass the water heater,take drain plug out of water heater to drain,leave all taps shut ,put short length of hose at winterizing point near pump into jug of non tox, turn that hose on and turn intake from fresh water tank off.
Turn pump on and start opening taps ,one at a time,till pink starts coming out. repeat for all taps then toilet. do not forget out shower. turn pump off and open any tap for 2 secs then take screen off the city water intake then push on white check valve and have someone turn pump on for a coulpe secs till pink comes out .
go inside and put water heater back in summer mode. leave drain plug out.
shut jug valve and open water tank inlet valve.
make sure you drain fresh tank....
Now you can go to low point drains and drain them into a pail and then open every tap in trailer and leave them open. you will get alot of pink that you can put into traps and toiltt.
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:31 PM   #10
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Correct, drain the hot water heater. Then isolate it so you dont get the pink stuff in there. Drain the potable water tank too, you can leave it open.

I usually drain all the water before running air. Including opening the low point drains.

Insert hose into bottle. Flip valve. Turn on pump. Then open each faucet valve 1 at a time to ensure pink flows thru. Dont forget the outside shower. Flush the toilet too. Leave some pink in the bowl. Also pour some in each drain.
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