Adjusting trailer brakes

longhauler · 08-27-2012, 10:51 PM

Does anyone know how hard it is to adjust trailer brakes. I was messing with my slider last night becasue I adjusted my pin box and I wanted to slide the hitch back to check clearance and I couldn't get my trailer brakes to lock up. You could feelbrakes grab, but they won't lock the tires up. I have my controller turned all the up. Thanks for any info you have to offer.

**Lloyd** · 08-27-2012, 11:40 PM

If you do a search for it, I had a link posted awhile back giving the procedure.
It's not hard to do at all.

Here's the link I was talking about.

http://www.etrailer.com/question-40801.html

Edited by: Old Farmer

drcook · 08-28-2012, 12:15 AM

here is a google search that will hit the web and provide directions, I

http://www.google.com/#q=adjusting+trailer+brakes+electric&hl=en&amp ;rlz=1C2GGGE_enUS370&prmd=imvns&ei=1MI8ULT tKNO66AGAuoHIAg&sqi=2&start=10&sa=N&am p;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=2bfe5b375e320 3da&biw=800&bih=485

longhauler · 08-28-2012, 05:31 AM

Thanks for the info I'll give it a shot tonight

happycampers · 08-28-2012, 09:29 AM

there is a rubber plug on the backing plate of the brakes. Pop it out and use a flat head screw driver to reach in and rotate the adjuster.

danskool · 08-28-2012, 10:20 PM

Ditto what Matt Said. I just reach in and tighten/loosen just enough to hear the pad barely touching the drum while i spin tire. I don't get to fussy with it. Adjust, Pull the safety cable,Push/pull on the tire,Repeat.. I pull the cable to make sure the pads center up between adjustment turnsand also the emergency brakes are working. I can do all 4 in about 30 minutes. Pretty easy to do

Don't remember with the other controllers, But with my p3 i can adjust it to .3 volts or .5 volts then i have the wife apply the power using the brake controller and i can hear the magnet engauge and i can turn the tire with the brakes applied. It takes muscle(red face)but i can do it. I did that once to check it out. I don't make a habit of that process. That kinda tells me if there is grease in there causing one magnet to slip more than the other not applying the same force to turn the wheel.

John B · 08-29-2012, 02:42 AM

For too many years to count I have always raised the wheel and spun it to listen and then got under and thru the backing plate provision turned the adjuster untill the wheel is stopped snug to the feel. I then back the adjuster usually 7 clicks and proceed to the next one. This is the old vehicle way of doing before self adjusters..JMHO jb

cruzr4-2 · 08-29-2012, 06:36 AM

I'm not sure you will get them to lockup to the point of skidding.
Dennis

danskool · 08-29-2012, 01:57 PM

This is out of the book. I do this also. I have also used calipers to get me close, say example .030 clearance from the ID of the drum, Then a few clicks to creep up on it. What ever your preference

-- Jack up trailer and secure on

adequate capacity jack

stands. Follow trailer manufacturer’s

recommendations for

lifting and supporting the unit. Make

sure the wheel and

drum rotates freely.

--Remove the adjusting hole cover

from the adjusting slot on

the bottom of the brake backing

plate.

--With a screwdriver or standard

adjusting tool, rotate the

starwheel of the adjuster assembly to

expand the brake

shoes. Adjust the brake shoes out

until the pressure of the

linings against the drum makes the

wheel very difficult to

turn.

-- Then rotate the starwheel in the

opposite direction until the

wheel turns freely with a slight

lining drag.

-- Replace the adjusting hole cover

and lower the wheel to the

ground.

-- Repeat the above procedure on all

brakes. For best results,

the brakes

should all be set at the same clearance.

longhauler · 08-30-2012, 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danskool

This is out of the book. I do this also. I have also used calipers to get me close, say example .030 clearance from the ID of the drum, Then a few clicks to creep up on it. What ever your preference

-- Jack up trailer and secure on

adequate capacity jack

stands. Follow trailer manufacturer’s

recommendations for

lifting and supporting the unit. Make

sure the wheel and

drum rotates freely.

--Remove the adjusting hole cover

from the adjusting slot on

the bottom of the brake backing

plate.

--With a screwdriver or standard

adjusting tool, rotate the

starwheel of the adjuster assembly to

expand the brake

shoes. Adjust the brake shoes out

until the pressure of the

linings against the drum makes the

wheel very difficult to

turn.

-- Then rotate the starwheel in the

opposite direction until the

wheel turns freely with a slight

lining drag.

-- Replace the adjusting hole cover

and lower the wheel to the

ground.

-- Repeat the above procedure on all

brakes. For best results,

the brakes

should all be set at the same clearance.

Thanks a lot for the info

longhauler · 08-30-2012, 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzr4-2

I'm not sure you will get them to lockup to the point of skidding.
Dennis

I need them to lock up so I can slide the hitch back when I need to.

**Lloyd** · 08-30-2012, 12:58 AM

I don't think it's necessary for them to actually "lock-up" to do that. At least mine don't have to.

longhauler · 08-30-2012, 03:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Farmer

I don't think it's necessary for them to actually "lock-up" to do that. At least mine don't have to.

The one time I did have to slide my hitch I had to lock up the tires to get it to slide back, but maybe thats because it was brand new at the time and the first time it was slide back.

danskool · 08-30-2012, 10:45 PM

I don't have an issue with my slide hitch either, It is tight sometimes and tighter than most becauase i have done a lot of work shimming and tightening it up because it use to drive me nuts with the sloppiness,No issues with the brakes holding it. I have never had to push/pull hard enough to skid the tires though.

rcflyer · 08-31-2012, 02:06 AM

First if you have the brake controller set up such it can lock the brakes the gain is too high and you are in an unsafe condition. If you ever get in an emergency situation where you are standing on the TV brakes and the brakes on the trailer lock then you may lose everything.
As for sliders first make sure you are lined up with the trailer. If there is any angle between the TV and trailer the slider will most likely bind. If a properly adjusted brake controller will not hold the trailer then get out the wheel chocks. That is what chocks are for. I would think a slider that is in good condition and lubricated properly and the TV is lined up should have no trouble sliding. I have a Reese signature series slider and if I am on level ground (which you should be) mine will slide without the use of the trailer brakes.

danskool · 09-01-2012, 12:25 AM

Well Said, rcflyer.. Agreed.

pulpwood007 · 09-01-2012, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danskool

I don't have an issue with my slide hitch either, It is tight sometimes and tighter than most becauase i have done a lot of work shimming and tightening it up because it use to drive me nuts with the sloppiness,No issues with the brakes holding it. I have never had to push/pull hard enough to skid the tires though.

Not to hijack the thread, and since answers have been given, could you tell us a little about the shimming and tightening you have done in your slider hitch. Man, all that slop on start/stop is aggravating. thanks..........

danskool · 09-02-2012, 12:17 PM

I took all the pictures and was going to put it together in a thread after my vacation. Going to put on a around 1600 miles and with the Hitch Mods and the new morryde.. I can already comment that it is night and day different. Did some local runs. Dad commented you can't even feel the camper back there. My hitch chucked/slopped,banged around back there, Thought it was going to rip itself out.. Nice and snug now. The Big pin was wore, The main ID hole was egg shaped for the big pin. The slider rails were sloppy and the securing mounts/pins were sloppy.. All together, A bunch of slop and noise. Hated the hitch was going to toss it and buy a new one, But love her now. Had an engineer work with me at work and we decided I didn't weaken it at all.. If nothing else, It is better stronger. I will post it up when i get back at the end of the month, unless i get time to put it together. Swamped getting everything ready for the trip..

**Lloyd** · 09-02-2012, 11:29 PM

Dan, were the jaws worn on your hitch, and you welded them up and re-sized it?

danskool · 09-03-2012, 08:51 AM

No, Didn't have to monkey with the jaws or clamping mechanism. Just cleaned and grease.

Most of all the slop came from, The hitch mounting pins X 4.. Made 4 rubber shims to place under the feet to take up the slop. The main Swivel head head mounting pin. The pin was worn and the holes were egg shaped front and back on the frame and the slide feet. I welded a shim under each to take up the space. . Let me see if i can drag up a picture.

So we don't hijack this thread any further. My Reese hitch mod. http://www.crossroadsrv.com/forum/fo...s.asp?TID=5600

Edited by: danskool

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