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Old 11-23-2015, 08:44 AM   #1
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Unhappy Change your tires

Check your tires, if they came with the RV, spend the 130. each and get real tires. I just calculated, and I bet I got ~ 2500 or less miles on mine.

I don't let my tires sit, and we use our camper. Tire rot is not the issue, Cheep tires is the issue.

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Old 11-23-2015, 10:43 AM   #2
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What tires did you buy??
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:58 AM   #3
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I somewhat agree with the OPs statement but it really depends on the brand and size of tire your unit comes with. My cruiser came with Power Towing E rated tires (not an expensive tire by any means) and have stood up well with over 13,000 miles of towing on them already. Picked up a nail on the way to Alaska last year and that's the only problem I've had so far. They have worn surprisingly well for an inexpensive tire. I will point out my trailer is stored indoors in a heated shop so the tires are not subjected to weather most of the year. Most tires from factory - although generally cheap - should get you 20,000 miles of use or up to 3 or 4 years if you haul less than that amount of miles and have harsher winter or summer climates. That is unless you're over loaded or have axle alignment issues.
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Old 11-24-2015, 01:38 PM   #4
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I wish tire problems were that easy. I have been in the business over 40 years and conduct tire & disc brake seminars at various RV events. I am a full time RV'er that sells only 17.5" H and 16" G tires and wheels. Most RV tire problems are related to loading. Notice I did not say over loading.
Most RV tires are loaded 100% of the time at 90%+ of rated capacity. If you compare the vehicle your are driving GVWR and the max tire loading you will find that you are only loaded 65%-75% of the tire load rating.
When you put tires on your trailer that reflect 75% loading many of your tire problems disappear.
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:45 PM   #5
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Titan Guy,

do you have to divide the weight by the number of tires or is it per tire?
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:59 PM   #6
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Most say that you weigh each wheel position and compare that to the tire load. Because I am looking for a margin of safety, I take the total weight on the axles divided by the number of tires and compare that to tire load.
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Old 01-28-2016, 01:41 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by 56Jeff View Post
Check your tires, if they came with the RV, spend the 130. each and get real tires. I just calculated, and I bet I got ~ 2500 or less miles on mine.

I don't let my tires sit, and we use our camper. Tire rot is not the issue, Cheep tires is the issue.

I really hate some of the new RV's coming. Quality in terms of long term travel is pretty bad. Specially if you have to go through Nevada or New Mexico or Arizonian desert.
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Old 01-28-2016, 09:19 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by BreannaGillman View Post
I really hate some of the new RV's coming. Quality in terms of long term travel is pretty bad. Specially if you have to go through Nevada or New Mexico or Arizonian desert.
I noticed at the Tampa RV show this year that many of the better RV's, TT & FW, came with Michelin LT tires. Maybe that will be an industry trend.
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Old 01-28-2016, 09:29 AM   #9
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Two things you can't over-buy -- your tow vehicle and your trailer tires. Always buy more capability than you need of both of these.
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Old 01-28-2016, 10:05 AM   #10
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Blow outs are NOT fun...
had one on previous 5er on I-10 east of Lafayette, La...

it was the perfect storm,
late afteroon in August in South Losingannie...
Asphalt road that ran perfectly east and west so there was sun baking it ALL day.
high humidity,
and under rated goodyear tires...

It even bent steel cross members on the frame !

The only good thing ? After a few emails, Goodyear stood behind their tire and paid for it all (glad I told the tire guy to throw the carcass in the truck bed !)
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:33 PM   #11
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"I wish tire problems were that easy. I have been in the business over 40 years and conduct tire & disc brake seminars at various RV events. I am a full time RV'er that sells only 17.5" H and 16" G tires and wheels. Most RV tire problems are related to loading. Notice I did not say over loading.
Most RV tires are loaded 100% of the time at 90%+ of rated capacity. If you compare the vehicle your are driving GVWR and the max tire loading you will find that you are only loaded 65%-75% of the tire load rating.
When you put tires on your trailer that reflect 75% loading many of your tire problems "




An example of this math is:


My 5'er weighs about 15,000 and is a triple axle trailer.
Each tire has a load rating of 3,740lbs (I have 6 wheels) and each axle is a 7,000lbs per axle


So...


My total axle weight load rating/capacity could be considered 21,000lbs


My total tire weight load rating capacity could be considered 22,440lbs


Given the afore mentioned 15,000 is approx. 67% of the 22,400lbs.


I have had zero tire issues in about 15,000 miles and the tires are wearing very evenly. I always keep them at 80PSI. My 5'er is kept outside, but under a roof.


Here's a great tire tech document is you want to get into the specific load and speed ratings...


http://www.netspeed.com.au/rob.dobso...Links%20V1.pdf
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Old 01-28-2016, 06:59 PM   #12
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If you guys are going use another members post, it seems to me that it would only be right, and courteous to [Quote] him.

In other words, do the quote the correct way.
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lloyd View Post
If you guys are going use another members post, it seems to me that it would only be right, and courteous to [Quote] him.

In other words, do the quote the correct way.

Great point Lloyd.

I tried to "do it the right way" for about 10 minutes yet the crappy website wouldn't play ball, so I not only copy and pasted his text, I backed up his comment via real life data and added a tech doc to further support his thought process.

That said, this is from my Tapatalk app...not the website.

Cheers,

Matt.


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Old 01-28-2016, 07:45 PM   #14
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In that case, just type his name in at the beginning of the quote. I know post from tapatalk have limited ability and even when using the website on a smart phone,
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:47 PM   #15
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Will do in the future. Thanks Mark.


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Old 01-29-2016, 06:35 AM   #16
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Two things you can't over-buy -- your tow vehicle and your trailer tires. Always buy more capability than you need of both of these.
Absolutely right! My first 5th wheel was an Alumescape with 125 psi Good Years that would have probably worked on a military tank hauler. I didn't know you had to worry about trailer tires at that time, beyond keeping them at pressure and never had a problem. Next I bought a new 37 ft Carriage Cameo and the salesman for some reason talked me out of upgrading to the same tire from the cheap 65 psi tires that came with it. They all but one (that's out of 5 including the spare) developed sidewall lumps in 4,000 miles and I was lucky to (a) get it back to the dealer and (b) not have any damage beyond losing all the tires and buying two replacements on the road. The dealer weaseled on the tire warranty so I told them to throw all the tires in the dumpster, give me the rims and put the H rated 125 psi Good Years and appropriate rims on it. Never had another problem!

I recently traded down to a smaller, lighter 2015 Carriage Aire that also had cheap tires right at their rated limit. Getting smarter in my old age, I refused to deal unless they upped the tires/rims to some Goodyear LT 85 psi tires. No problems on basically the same trip that trashed the Cameo tires previously.

Regarding the tow vehicle, my F350 dually diesel didn't exactly struggle with the first two units but it -and I- knew it had a load. The new Carriage Aire is not nearly as luxurious as the Cameo but is 7 feet shorter and 2,000 pounds lighter. The old truck and I both find it a pleasure to tow and to back.

It's far, far better to have capacity to spare instead of than not quite enough.
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Old 01-31-2016, 09:15 AM   #17
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Agreed

Quote:
Originally Posted by 56Jeff View Post
Check your tires, if they came with the RV, spend the 130. each and get real tires. I just calculated, and I bet I got ~ 2500 or less miles on mine.

I don't let my tires sit, and we use our camper. Tire rot is not the issue, Cheep tires is the issue.

We knew we were riding a little high in the front but we were not expecting the rear 5th wheel tires to dissolve so very quickly and the front tires weren't far behind. We lowered the hitch and replaced all the RV tires. It looks as though we will get twice the life out of the new tires even though they are still cheap Chinese tires.
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Old 01-21-2018, 04:50 PM   #18
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Tire Updating 2018

After several blowouts over the past few years, I have gotten a bit more educated on tires.

ST tires- they need the MAX pressure if you expect them to perform. Some suggest a TPMS.

LT tires a a bit more forgiving on tire pressure, but not recomended.

Pivioting on your tires is not good for the tires, and will break the belts leading to blowouts. Should try to be rolling when backing up or making sharp turns.

Lastly, some tires get labeled ChinaPops, I have busted Gladiators, Carlisle, and Lions-head tires. 2 of these, I suspect were driver / owner induced.

I have gone to GY Endurance Load range E- ( 3417 at 80 psi), with a trailer # of 10,600, means I'm caring 73% load on these tires standing still, not hooked to the truck

Just my opinion, as I do knot know Jack.
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Old 05-23-2018, 12:51 PM   #19
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Had my first blowout a few weeks ago and have been reading a lot about tires only to find no good answers. So far common good rating I have seen are for maxxis, Goodyear endurance, and marathon. Any thoughts? I do think I will go from a C to an E rating.

More bothersome is where to jack up a trailer, the axle or the frame? 6,000 lb Superlite 29BH.

Also, I do not have a good trailer facility near me and going to buy the tires and have them mounted at a local garage. I wanted to put the trailer on blocks and take all 4 tires at once. would you block the axle or frame? I read all the documents that came with my TT and there is nothing there about jacking location.
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Old 05-23-2018, 02:29 PM   #20
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Had my first blowout a few weeks ago and have been reading a lot about tires only to find no good answers. So far common good rating I have seen are for maxxis, Goodyear endurance, and marathon. Any thoughts? I do think I will go from a C to an E rating.

More bothersome is where to jack up a trailer, the axle or the frame? 6,000 lb Superlite 29BH.

Also, I do not have a good trailer facility near me and going to buy the tires and have them mounted at a local garage. I wanted to put the trailer on blocks and take all 4 tires at once. would you block the axle or frame? I read all the documents that came with my TT and there is nothing there about jacking location.
Going from C to E you may have to replace your wheels too. If so, you can buy on line already aired up and balanced so you just need to put them on the unit. That way you can install them one at a time safely. You might still want to double check the balancing when installed since the axle might be out of balance. If buying on line (as I did) call them up to be sure you are dealing with someone knowledgeable, not just someone selling stuff. Pick their brain while you are at it.

I would hesitate to jack my unit up and take all the wheels off but maybe that's just me. I've never gotten a definitive answer on where to jack but the consensus seems to be on the u-bolts.
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