Heater

[artgpo]

This afternoon I checked out my CF31QB's heater in preparation for a weekend trip. I slid the thermostat switch to the "Heat" position. Immediately the blower came on and the burner lit. I went outside and put my hand in front of the heater exhaust and found it to be blowing hot and hard. The air coming from the floor ducts was not blowing hard but was warm. Is this normal?

[mwebber78]

The exhaust will be hot, the unit is basically an air exchanger. Once the materials in the coach and ducts warm you will get warm air. You would have the same result if you were at home and stuck your hand 2" from your oil-burning furnace - the air would burn your hand but the air from the ducts would be WARM.



Good luck Have a nice trip!

[rcflyer]

I have a 2010 Cruiser 26RK. I had problems with my fresh water tank that was not corrected to my satisfaction by the dealer. As with all the other problems I have had I had to correct this one myself. After lowering the tank I found a 6 inch by 6 inch hole in the heating duct just in front of the water tank. The metal was bent up into the heat duct thus blocking air flow past the hole to the main part of the trailer. Most of my furnace air was being diverted into the area between the bottom of the trailer and the belly pan. Not sure why such a large hole in the heating duct. I pulled the metal back into place as the hole was made by large x cut and pushing the metal up into the heat duct. I taped the cuts with metal tape. Another area I fixed is at the heat vents. There is metal tape that is used to make the transition between the metal duct and the hole in the floor. The metal duct has a very light film of oil most likely from the rolling process to make the thin metal. Anyway the metal tape did not stay stuck to the metal duct. The tape was hanging down into the duct impeding any air to go on past to the next vent. I removed the metal tape cleaned the metal duct with alcohol and put new metal tape back.<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" />

I get much more air flow from the heating vents in the trailer now.

[mwebber78]

That hole was the opening to heat your tanks/underbelly. You will get more air into the trailer but your tanks will be heated by radiant heat from the ducts only now.

[artgpo]

Let me clarify: Is the air coming through the floor heating ducts being propelled by a blower or ???

[mwebber78]

Yes, it is Art.

[Hunter11]

If you had a hole in your duct above your fresh water tank sounds like someone screwed up. There should not be any holes in your duct work and the underbelly only gets radiant heat. I would be surprised you were getting much warm air at all out of your vents with a hole that big in your duct work.

[dja29RK]

Check around the furnace itself. There are plugs, about 4" in diameter, that twist on, they are there so the same furnace can be used in different configurations. Anyway, they have a tendency to work themselves loose. Take the silver tape and tape them up. I also sealed any place there was air leaking. It made a big difference.

[salda01]

Just curious has anybody figured a way to quiet the blower motor down?I was thinking about adding some insulation to the inside of the cabinet walls or surround the unit itself.

[w&cferb]

Afterhauling to Montana and then down the forest road for seven miles, I discovered "junk" in the ductwork. Pieces of wood and carpet and several collections of wood shavings. Took off the vent covers and cleaned them out. Might nothave been impeding the heatflow, but sure wasn't helping it.

[cwit]

It seems like they all sweep their dirt into the ducts. I have cleaned mine twice.

[Monty]

salda01, I talked to some heat and air guys at work that were doing some remodeling and asked them about that same issue. They gave me a small sheet of the foil covered insulation that they use around their heat/air units. I used it to wrap the metal heater box being careful to leave the fan intake open. That seemed toreduce the noise some.Also usedsome on the water pump, but still need to try something else there. Probably adding a flex hoseinstead of the hard plastic pipe.

[NC Retiree]

Monty:

I just finished sound proofing my heater intake with 3/4" egg create foam matress material. I glued it to the walls around the heater so as not to touch anywhere. I also place a small piece (maybe 6 inces wide inside the vent cover itself. It has made a big difference. Like you, I also put some in the water pump area with some success (not as much as the heater) because I believe the pump causes the hard pipes to vibrate thoughout the entire unit and you hear that more than the pump itself.

[Monty]

My heater and water pump are in the same area, so it was just as easy to cover both. There is not much space in there, but I'll look at mine again when I get it home this weekend(it's still at deer camp). I might be able to add some egg crate foam to the top of that compartment, which would help some. The walls will be a bit more of a challenge. It sounds like I have my winter projects cut out for me now.

[salda01]

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I never thought about adding egg crate to the inside of the heater cabinet. In a few months when the weather turns warm, I'll have to check that out. I also like the foil wrapped insulation around the blower box. Thanks and looking forward to this summer project.