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Old 03-31-2013, 05:59 AM   #1
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Now that my warranty has expired, time to address some of the things that annoy me. First is the uninsulated refer compartment (typical of many trailers) and resulting thermostat problems with my floor plan. Well it's not correct to say the compartment isn't insulated if you consider a 10" x 60" strip of fiberglas secured at the top with a single screw, but it is totally inadequate. The thermostat and pantry are adjacent to the refer cabinet with zero insulation. I've measured temps inside the pantry at 105 F when the temp inside the coach is around 78 F. The cabinet above the refer has the same problem. And when the inside temp is 78 F, the tstat will be reading 90+ F. In the winter, the tstat will indicate 60 F when inside temp is really 72 F.

Anyway, I have disconnected the refer and pulled it out of the cabinet. My plan is to use 3/4 inch thick rigid foam board and construction adhesive to insulate the entire inside of the cabinet, in most places it will be a double layer.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:48 AM   #2
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I found the same thing on our rig last year. We have a pantry adjacent to the fridge, and it would get like an oven in there. We always left the door ajar. I didn't have to take the fridge out to insulate that wall. I used 1/2 in styrofoam. Boy what a difference. It would have been a lot easier to do had I removed the fridge and I probably would have gotten a better job out of it, but I just didn't have the gumption.
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:54 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Farmer
I found the same thing on our rig last year. We have a pantry adjacent to the fridge, and it would get like an oven in there. We always left the door ajar. I didn't have to take the fridge out to insulate that wall. I used 1/2 in styrofoam. Boy what a difference. It would have been a lot easier to do had I removed the fridge and I probably would have gotten a better job out of it, but I just didn't have the gumption.

Lloyd,

Not too bad to remove the refer, disconnect gas, DC and AC power, 4 screws in the front and 2 in the rear. Used some scrap lumber and 4 casters to make a dolly the right height, pulled the refer out and rolled it aside.
Edited by: Dayle1
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:32 AM   #4
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What may help is to add another fan to pull air through the area. One person added aSilenx iXtrema Pro Thermistor Fan (Model XP7414T). The thermistor
starts the fan at 70F (21C) at 24 cfm and as the temperature increases to 168F
(75C), the airflow increases to 72 cfm.</span>
</span>
The existing fan runs on 12V DC.</span>
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:24 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorskeNY
What may help is to add another fan to pull air through the area. One person added aSilenx iXtrema Pro Thermistor Fan (Model XP7414T). The thermistor
starts the fan at 70F (21C) at 24 cfm and as the temperature increases to 168F
(75C), the airflow increases to 72 cfm.</span>
</span>
The existing fan runs on 12V DC.</span>

Mine doesn't have a fan or need it, the refer is not in a s/o, so the upper vent is on the roof. I've got over 24 inches of space above the refer, so chimney effect is fine. A fan doesn't address the lack of insulation. When the outside summer temp is 105 F, so is the inside of the pantry. Winter time with a strong wind, temp. inside the pantry isn't much better than the outside temp.
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:26 PM   #6
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Search high end motorhome forums like Wanderlodge Owners Group &amp; such for Fire Proof insulating "Refer Box" compartment area. Insulate Yes! Fire Proof; Please! If you're going to the trouble of doing it; DO IT so one gains safety!! "Refer" fires are BAD on any RV, but on a $500K &amp; up units they are .. . ! ! ! Any Fire in any RV is Not something anyone needs.
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:14 PM   #7
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Finished the job yesterday, refer reinstalled and working fine. Since my refer is an angled layout, it took about 2-1/2 sheets of foam board with a double layer. Other issues, found the plywood base flexing on one side with a 1x2 brace coming loose underneath so I fixed it. While CR did a good job with a baffle directly behind the coils, there was a gap on one side that could allow air to bypass the coils, so I added a small side baffle.
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