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Old 01-16-2018, 09:52 PM   #1
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Left front locking up

Hi all, last trip out I noticed the left front tire locking up, very smoky and not good. Pulled both left wheels down today and didn't find anything amiss. Will check the wires next for rodent damage. Other than these I'm open to suggestions.......
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Old 01-17-2018, 09:31 PM   #2
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While I was in there I noticed the shoes and magnets have about 50% life left probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace, anyone have an idea who would be a good vendor for brake parts?
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Old 01-18-2018, 08:41 AM   #3
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Not sure of the best vendor, but did find on mine it was about the same money to buy the new backing plates with everything on them than to buy individual shoes magnets, etc. & much less work & mess.
Personally I'd try eTrailer & price the Dexter backing plate assemblies.
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Old 01-18-2018, 11:55 AM   #4
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I just did the ones on our Seville. While you have it torn down for that I'd do the bearings as well.

I used the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 12" - Left and Right Assemblies - 7K. The eTrailer invoice shows $171.42 for the set.
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Old 01-18-2018, 08:07 PM   #5
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Thanks Al, sounds like a plan, Dexter backing plates will fit on Lippert axles ok?
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Old 01-18-2018, 08:52 PM   #6
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They certainly will. Check my posts in http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...ncy-13622.html about bearing issues. I posted all the part numbers for the brake backers and bearings on that. I think I also put the Lippert hotline phone number in there (those guys were a lifesaver the day we lost the roadside rear bearing).

One other thing on brakes and such. I read somewhere that you need to surface not only where the shoe contacts but also where the brake runs. I'm not sure exactly where I saw that but that might be a fair question to ask the Lippert guys.

At any rate, the axle place I went to when I lost the bearing seemed to think that it was more cost effective to replace the whole hub assembly rather than try to drive new bearing races in. Turning the brake surface isn't terribly expensive but I suspect not every shop can handle surfacing the electric brake surface.
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:20 PM   #7
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Have checked to make sure the brakes on the right side are working?
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Old 01-19-2018, 08:44 PM   #8
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Like Travelin Texans said, etrailer and replace the whole backing plate. Cost is about the same, and should be four bolts and reattach the two wires. After that, get the wheels off the ground and adjust the shoes appropriately. Then pull the brake away pin/cable. Al your brakes should lock up as long as your battery is charged. If not your issue is the brake assembly or trailer wiring. Put the brake away cable back in. If your still having problems when driving with a particular brake, I would check your trucks wiring to make sure it’s putting out proper voltage. I don’t have much experience in that part to add more.

Also, yes, you need to check for damage, clean and repack your bearings, especially on that hot wheel.
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Old 01-27-2018, 11:15 PM   #9
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Thanks Al, RCflyer, Steve, I'll check on etrailer for my unit fitment and will check to make sure voltages are correct.........
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Old 01-28-2018, 09:22 AM   #10
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Bearings, would be my suspicion for the wheels locking up.
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Old 01-28-2018, 04:34 PM   #11
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Thanks Aceallenk, when I pulled both hubs down on the left side bearings had plenty of grease in them, so no, don't think it was that....
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Old 01-28-2018, 05:10 PM   #12
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Was just a thought, but if the inner and outer bearing are both turning smooth with your fingers and greased on each hub, and nothing appears to have turned on the axles, on that side that should rule them both out of the picture. No broken springs for the brakes, etc, when you removed the drums? It can't be electrical cause all 4 wheels would have grabbed together I would think, or suppose to. Hope you post the problem when you find and remedy the culprit. Just a thought, get a picture online and compare, incase someone played inside and put things together wrong, comparing front to back might not help if there all put together wrong. never know with some help these days.
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Old 01-28-2018, 05:28 PM   #13
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Yes, you do never know about the help these days, only the brakes have never been replaced, it's just as it was from the factory, don't roll a lot of miles a year, but yes will check that out as well & post the results.....
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Old 02-05-2018, 02:09 PM   #14
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No one has mentioned adjustment. If the brake shoes are at 50% and you have never adjusted them, that may well be your issue. As the magnet and shoes have to travel further, they will tend to lock.
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Old 02-05-2018, 07:03 PM   #15
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Yes, BipeFlier I agree, so that has already been done and ready for testing next trip out, thanks....
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Old 04-19-2018, 07:57 AM   #16
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What was the problem? BRAKE WIRING

Not sure this is your RV problem but you may wish to deal with it now.
The wiring for the brakes runs through the axles where the friction wears the insulation off of the copper. It's a common brake problem.
We replaced the original wiring with armored cable and taped it to the rear of the axle. Once in place we covered the cable with GORILLA TAPE. Take a heat gun to the tape for a VERY secure placement.
Gorilla Tape works great patching the belly liner; once heated it will not be removed. The belly liner lamination will fail before the tape gives up.
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Old 04-19-2018, 09:55 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamper Dave View Post
Not sure this is your RV problem but you may wish to deal with it now.
The wiring for the brakes runs through the axles where the friction wears the insulation off of the copper. It's a common brake problem.
We replaced the original wiring with armored cable and taped it to the rear of the axle. Once in place we covered the cable with GORILLA TAPE. Take a heat gun to the tape for a VERY secure placement.
Gorilla Tape works great patching the belly liner; once heated it will not be removed. The belly liner lamination will fail before the tape gives up.
I agree with Dave, I had that problem with two RV's. The locking up of the brakes was intermittent. Try moving the brake wire where it enters the axle and see if that resolves the issue. If it does replace the wire as Dave suggests. I think when the wiring was installed the sharp edges around the hole in the axle stripped the insulation causing the shorting.
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Old 04-20-2018, 09:45 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamper Dave View Post
Not sure this is your RV problem but you may wish to deal with it now.
The wiring for the brakes runs through the axles where the friction wears the insulation off of the copper. It's a common brake problem.
We replaced the original wiring with armored cable and taped it to the rear of the axle. Once in place we covered the cable with GORILLA TAPE. Take a heat gun to the tape for a VERY secure placement.
Gorilla Tape works great patching the belly liner; once heated it will not be removed. The belly liner lamination will fail before the tape gives up.
Kemp
Where did you buy the armored cable an electrical supply..???
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:22 PM   #19
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Thanks Kamper Dave and Russ, the wire is protected by a plastic sleeve where it exits from inside the axle tube, didn't see any abrading. But I will keep your ideas in mind as I already am a fan of Gorilla tape, didn't know it had heat shrink capabilities as well. Right now I'm hanging loaded, self adjusting backing plates, so we'll see how that does...
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