Lots of Questions from a Newby

ChuckNSue · 11-05-2010, 04:46 AM

Hello to the Forum. We look forward to being part of your family! - We just ordered a 2011 CF305SK Cruiser and are new to this. We are wondering whether anyone can answer a few questions for us.

1) Does anyone have the actual kitchen table top dimensions for this model?

2) Is there any heat directed to the water tank compartments like in some of the other 5th wheels for use in cooler weather?

3) We are considering a late model (2007 or newer) Chev/GMC 2500HD with Duramax. If we go with the standard bed (6'-7") do we need a slider hitch?

4) Does anyone know what the actual decal colors are on the new 2011 CF305SK Cruiser? We have seen the brochure but no the actual RV and it looks like they have changed from 2010.

Thanks for your help :-)

Stan · 11-05-2010, 05:11 AM

Welcome to the forum Congrats on the new rig. We have the 2007 model of the same floor plan. I believe the new ones are nicer but we really like the one we have.
I am not sure of the table dimensions as they may have changed since 2007.
The is no heat directly into the water tank area. The only heat is indirect radiating from the duct work and then only when you run the furnace. I have a 2008 GM with D/A and have the Reese slider. I don't use it much but very glad I have the option. I do get pretty close to the back window when turning sharply and have to closely watch it. Do you need one?...probably not but if I needed to do it again I would get another one just for the option.

wsc01q · 11-05-2010, 05:34 AM

1. Table top is 26 x 40

2. The underbelly is sealed and insulated. If the unit is heated, the tanks won't freeze.

3. You are REQUIRED to have a slider hitch if the truck bed is less than 8 feet.

4. The graphics have not changed.

I personally would not buy/order a unit that I have not examined. I am willing to drive up to 500 miles to check out a model I am considering. It's too big a purchase. It has taken me 2 months to getmy 2011 CF30SKP into the form that I want it for the travel I am planning. We have put over 50 enhancements and improvements into an already pretty decent trailer.

artgpo · 11-05-2010, 05:59 AM

The underbelly is wrapped and will be warmer than the outside air provided you are running the RV's heater.

If you look at my picture you will see what we tow and what we tow with. The weight is well within the capacity of the truck. Lots of reserve Duramax diesel power. If you can afford a 2011 2500HD Duramax you will have a monster truck.

Dayle1 · 11-05-2010, 07:36 AM

Welcome to the forum and the forthcoming new rig. Most of your questions have already been answered, but I will add my own thoughts.

Assuming the 2011 is being built now and not one in stock, then it should have the new design front cap. This should pretty much eliminate the need for a slider hitch especially with a GM standard bed (i.e. 6-1/2ft) truck, the cab-to-axle distance is 41.6 inches which is longer than either Ford or Dodge. I have a slider that I have used just twice in 6-1/2 yrs with the old style front cap. FYI, in most tight situations, a little more time jockying the rig will accomplish the same thing as using a slider.

The underbelly and tanks are heated thru heat radiating from inside the RV. This is true if the propane furnace is being used or if you are using another heat source. In at least some units, CR also added a small vent from the main duct into the underbelly. On my unit it was a 1 inch diameter hole which I plugged up since I normally use electric heaters rather than the furnace. I camped for several days in January with temps in the teens, using only the electric heaters and the tanks never froze. The first thing that will freeze is the water inlet hose. If instead you are running off the fresh water tank, the small pickup tube should freeze before the tank freezes (although I've never had that freeze either).

Rambleaway · 11-05-2010, 10:31 AM

Hi, welcome to the forum and congrats on the new trailer. It appears all of your questions have been answered so I will just comment on the slider hitch. We have the 2011 CF30SKP (old style) and tow with an 07 Chev Silverado 2500 HD, Duramax/Allison, 6'6" box. We have a Husky 16k slider hitch. At this time, I have never had to use the slider but I would highly recommend that you get one just to be on the safe side. Until you know how sharply you can turn, have the DW or someone else check the distance between trailer and truck while you are backing up.

Have fun.

ChuckNSue · 11-05-2010, 01:13 PM

Wow! What a great response!

Wsc01q, you commented about examining a 5th wheel before purchasing. We actually did quite a bit of research before buying. What I meant is that we had not been in the 2011 CF305SK Cruiser - only the CF30 SKP. I'd love to hear about your 50 enhancements and improvements some time.

And thanks for all of the responses on the need for slider hitches. We are anxious to see the new front cap design when our RV arrives.

cwit · 11-05-2010, 08:33 PM

Welcome to the forum.

gball · 11-06-2010, 12:55 AM

Welcome and congratulations on the new unit.

JPG · 11-06-2010, 03:47 AM

WELCOME to our family! Congrats on the new rig

Like Dayle said, the slider is NOT required. However, I have one and would recommend it for the just in case moments. Kinda like insurance. I have used mine only a couple of times and didn't really need to then.

wsc01q · 11-06-2010, 04:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckNSue

Wow! What a great response!

Wsc01q, you commented about examining a 5th wheel before purchasing. We actually did quite a bit of research before buying. What I meant is that we had not been in the 2011 CF305SK Cruiser - only the CF30 SKP. I'd love to hear about your 50 enhancements and improvements some time.

And thanks for all of the responses on the need for slider hitches. We are anxious to see the new front cap design when our RV arrives.

OK I understand. We don't have the flat floor but it wan't a deal breaker.

A couple of things I can pass on. One, is that our dealer did not give us enough clearance between the bottom of the cap and sides of the truck. We started to have damage just backing up our driveway. We had to raise the hitch in the truck bed by about2 inches. Second we have to lower the tailgate when the slider is in the manuver position or the pin box damages the tailgate. We don't need to use it very often but when we do, the slider is a god send. Currently I am re-plumbing part of the trailer. I removed the backflow preventer because it canand didflood the bathroom. All the hose connections I use to flush already have backflow preventers.Also, the hotwater line to the bathroom sink is routed all over the place and it takes running a lot of water before it gets hot. The water heater is only a few inches from the bathroom. I also re-routed all the propane lines. You should see all the unneeded fittings and pieces of line that I have in a box. The trailer is assembeld to make it easy for the factory not for optimum design. I have converted most of my lighting to LED, including the TV's. It's fun to see how long I can dry camp on a battery charge.I compete with some of my friends for trailer weight reduction and gas mileage.

ChuckNSue · 11-06-2010, 07:52 AM

I look forward to implementing some of your suggestions. We lived on a sailboat for 10 years and much of the time we were on only 12VDC. We are used to conserving both water and electricity and looking for better ways to do things.

I'd like to hear comments on long bed (8 ft) vs short (or standard) bed 6'-7". We are looking for a truck so both options are open.

mwebber78 · 11-06-2010, 08:10 AM

Towed my 2009 with the previous short-turn cap for 2.5 years with my 2008 standard bed Chevy 2500HD (see signature).

Never needed my slider and performed a test, I'd have to be at an unreasonable angle to ever need it. The kind of angle that a newbie would put the trailer at drunk in a pitch black campground.

There is no need to tightly angle a 5th wheel, it defeats the whole purpose of having it pivoting over your rear axle.

**Lloyd** · 11-06-2010, 12:13 PM

There is no need to tightly angle a 5th wheel, it defeats the whole purpose of having it pivoting over your rear axle.[/QUOTE]

I guess I have to disagree with you Mike. I have been in situations where the campsites were not very accommodating, and I've had the 5er cut off real tight. I was very happy I had a slider, and mine isn't an automatic one. I have to get out and pull the pins. That being said, I wouldn't be without one.

Welcome to the forum Chuck&Sue!!

Edited by: Old Farmer

cwit · 11-06-2010, 08:54 PM

I have to agree with old farmer. Ilike my slider and use it. Being short I slide my hitch back when hitching up no worry about tailgate hitting camper and I can hook my padlock on handel without climbing in box of truck.

artgpo · 11-06-2010, 11:59 PM

I agree with Farmer as well. At Fort Wilderness Campground, WDW, the back in spots are so tight as to require one to almost jackknife in order to back in. While it might never happen to you it is nice to know you have the capability via a slider to make the move. Mind you, I have a long bed truck so I have a conventional hitch but I have had the experience of an almost 90 degree backing situation.

mwebber78 · 11-07-2010, 12:52 AM

I stand by my opinion, you aren't doing your trailer axles or camper any favor's by hittinga nearly 90 degree turn. My Cruiser had plenty of clearance without the slide in a standard GM box. cwit- you have a short overhang on your Zinger if I recall becuase your tailgate actually made contact with the underside (if I remember correctly) so a slider is needed in your setup.

I've driven a few setups for other's who were "stuck" trying to back in their campers at campgrounds. I can not recall a spot that required me to jackknife the unit to such an angle to get it into the spot. My driveway is on a rural two lane road on a moderate curve. I've backed into the yard dozens of times without jack-knifing.

Sorry but my slider hitch the dealer "sold me" on was worthless with my setup and never used from Maine to New Mexico.

**Lloyd** · 11-07-2010, 01:53 AM

Everybody has an opinion. Whether it's right, wrong or indifferent. I also stand by my opinion.
There have been too many back windows broken and cabs dented with the nose of a 5er hitting them. So to say a slider isn't needed is B.S.
A lot of people only camp where they have pull thru sites. Some of the newer campgrounds are making their sites more spacious to accommodate the bigger rigs that are out there now, which will negate the need for a slider in that instance. I use a lot of NF campgrounds and state campgrounds. these are pretty small and tight. Most build years ago when the biggest unit coming in was probably a tent camper.

mwebber78 · 11-07-2010, 01:22 AM

First off, I didn't say your opinion is B.S. so lets not get this forum on that road..

I didn't say a slider is never needed. I stated on a regular box, 2007.5-current GM HD with a 2009 up Cruiser (notched cap, now rounded cap) there wasn't a need for a slider as the notch and cab corners line up for clearance.

I'm done with this, just don't appreciate being mis-quoted and called B.S., I was referring to a specific setup (that I had experience with!).

dalemac377 · 11-07-2010, 02:28 AM

Hey Mike, Old Farmer, Art, and others, please don't let this become personal. Everyones opinions are important and all of you guys have been valuable contributors to me and many others on this forum. Please remember what this forum is all about--Helping others and exchanging ideas. Don't want to loose any of your opinions or knowledge. JMHO.

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