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Old 11-06-2009, 04:27 AM   #1
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We went camping twice when we needed the furnace. The temps were in the 40s. The condensation was terrible, running down the windows and into the bedding. Nothing like crawling into a damp chilled bed at night. Now we need to figure out how we're going to solve this problem.

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Old 11-06-2009, 06:28 AM   #2
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Did you keep the vents cracked open? No matter the outside temps it's important to have ventilation, which reduces or eliminates the condensation.
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Old 11-06-2009, 07:03 AM   #3
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Get the Plastic bubble wrap, wet down the windows put it over the windows. This will give it all most the same r value as a double pane window. We learned this last year on my son's houst that was built in the 1930's. We use it in our cruiser

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Old 11-06-2009, 07:56 AM   #4
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With two adults in a smaller camper the combination of cooking, breathing, showering and perspiration is enough to overwhelm the area you have. It is critical to leave windows slightly cracked, vent slightly cracked, ventilate the bathroom when showering, remove wet towels from the trailer, use the cook stove vent fan, etc....



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Old 11-06-2009, 10:18 AM   #5
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I use a small dehumidifier at night and that takes care of the problem.
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Old 11-06-2009, 12:04 PM   #6
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Cut back on the Heavy Breathing at night.
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Old 11-06-2009, 12:22 PM   #7
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This is my second trailer and I've never had issues with condensation. I camp here in Michigan well into mid to late October. Night time temps into the 20s. I've cracked a window or two, but it generally isn't necessary as long as the overhead vents are cracked. I know it sounds like backwards logic to crack open vents or windows when you're trying to heat the trailer, but it really does work.

I ordered the insulated glass on this trailer. However, on my old 25 footer I did use the plastic over the windows. Definitely helps to keep it warmer longer. The new upgraded windows serve the same purpose.

However, when using your furnace the best advice I can offer is to make sure you don't run out of propane. That was one of many small misadventures on my last trip. Nothing like waking up freezing in the middle of the night and the furnace is not working. Worse, wake at 5:00 a.m. and realize the furnace is fine but you have two empty 30lb propane canisters ... and you won't be able to refill until after 9:00 a.m.

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Old 11-06-2009, 03:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papa2

Did you keep the vents cracked open? No matter the outside temps it's important to have ventilation, which reduces or eliminates the condensation.
We had 2 windows open about an inch (one at each end) since it was raining on and off. Rain comes in the ceiling vents. Tomorrow we're getting those covers so we can leave them open when it rains or drizzles. So yes, there was air movement.
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Old 11-06-2009, 03:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fhenn
Get the Plastic bubble wrap, wet down the windows put it over the windows. This will give it all most the same r value as a double pane window. We learned this last year on my son's houst that was built in the 1930's. We use it in our cruiser
I have bubble wrap left over from my greenhouse. Did you put the bubble side against the window? No need to wet the windows since they're wet as soon as the temp drops and the heat comes on. That's sure an ugly way, from outside and inside to solve the problem though and would block the outside view.
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Old 11-06-2009, 03:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwebber78
With two adults in a smaller camper the combination of cooking, breathing, showering and perspiration is enough to overwhelm the area you have. It is critical to leave windows slightly cracked, vent slightly cracked, ventilate the bathroom when showering, remove wet towels from the trailer, use the cook stove vent fan, etc....



Good luck!
Two windows were slightly open, more because of the strange smell when the furnace runs than for any other reason. I suppose it's not broken in yet. It's not a propane smell. There's too much of a cold draft if the windows are open more than 1/2 to 1". The Zinger vents can't be opened when it drizzles or rains until we install those vent covers. It pings off the roof, hits under the vent covers, and drips down into the trailer. We didn't cook or shower since it was only short weekends from Friday afternoon to Sunday morning. I just made drip coffee those 2 weekends. We almost never cook indoors no matter the weather. I have an outdoor set-up under the awning or in the screen room where I cook supper when we camp. We don't eat breakfast. As for lunch, we have sandwiches. The stove and oven are still virgin. I always carry one of those yellow wash-lines and hang anything damp outside. The condensation was from our bodies and breath alone. One cat was with us. Had we showered and cooked inside Zingie, we would have really had a problem with condensation way beyond what we could control. As it was I went through several towels and the rest soaked into the new curtains I just hung.
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Old 11-06-2009, 03:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papa2





This is my second trailer and I've never had issues with condensation. I camp here in Michigan well into mid to late October. Night time temps into the 20s. I've cracked a window or two, but it generally isn't necessary as long as the overhead vents are cracked. I know it sounds like backwards logic to crack open vents or windows when you're trying to heat the trailer, but it really does work.

I ordered the insulated glass on this trailer. However, on my old 25 footer I did use the plastic over the windows. Definitely helps to keep it warmer longer. The new upgraded windows serve the same purpose.

However, when using your furnace the best advice I can offer is to make sure you don't run out of propane. That was one of many small misadventures on my last trip. Nothing like waking up freezing in the middle of the night and the furnace is not working. Worse, wake at 5:00 a.m. and realize the furnace is fine but you have two empty 30lb propane canisters ... and you won't be able to refill until after 9:00 a.m.
Upgraded windows? Mine has single pane. Oddly enough the jalousie windows in the our 1981 Suline would drip any moisture outside, not inside. The frames didn't get condensation on them as in the Zinger. We had the window open in the back and the other over the bed in the front. The cold draft was miserable but we were suffocating due to the smell when the furnace runs. It did nothing to help with the condensation. The condensation was as bad on the open ones as on the 3 that were closed. It not only soaked into the bedding but also the curtains. See other posts about Zingie's vents. The poor design (short lip on top cover) allows them to catch splashback and rain it into the trailer. We'll buy those vent covers this weekend so we can crack the vents when it rains/drizzles. Opening the celing vents is going to let a lot of heat escape and I doubt would make a difference where the windows are concerned. As soon as the heat comes on, like an iced glass removed from the fridge, any moisture in the air will condensate on the windows and windowframes as they will be just as cold. We watch our propane tanks and will fill them as they empty. One is always full.

Cracking windows may work where there's a dry cold, but not where the cold is a wet damp cold. Instead of moisture escaping, more comes in. I'm trying to picture what we would have had to deal with had we cooked and showered.

The bubble wrap would probably work but then the view is gone and we'll feel like we're in a box not to mention how bad the stuff looks. It's used to insulate greenhouses. We may not have a choice.
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:37 PM   #12
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Obviously a vent cover will help with splash back. I did notice the furnace took about a week before the odor disappeared in our first season of camping. Michigan is a humid paradise. Summers are hot and humid. Winters deliver wet snow...not the dry snow of the rockies. I've been to TN and it is no more humid (wet) there than it is up here. I have not seen a Zinger but I'm assuming you have the standard vent arrangement...one at each end + one in the bathroom. If it is just me and the dog, I crack the end vents about 1/2 - 1 inch open depending on the weather. My last trip it rained every day + got down into the 20s, so the vents were cracked about an inch. When it is me, my wife and the dog then i usually crack the bathroom vent as well. Add the grand kids in cold weather and I may crack a window or two up to about 1/2 an inch. The top vents seem to be more important than cracked windows.

All that being said, you may want to check with other campers the next time you're out in cold weather to see what they're doing, check with friends and/or call the dealer you purchased your unit from. They may be able to give you good local advice.

My previous trailer was an '83 Sunline. Best stick built trailer out there IMHO. Too bad they went out of business. We were so spoiled by that trailer it took a long time (5 years) to find one to replace it. As soon as we saw the ST we both knew it was the "one". I know you've had some issues with your Zinger, but I hope it works out for you.




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Old 11-06-2009, 11:58 PM   #13
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We place the bubble facing inside so the flat surface fits flat against the glass. With that small of a unit it may pay you to get the fantastic fans to help move the air and protect the vents from rain. I would also look into a small dehumitifier

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Old 11-07-2009, 01:32 AM   #14
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Yoou really don't have the air movement without a roof vent being open. Simply opening the window is not sufficient to circulate the air and remove moisture. Install the covers and leave them open in conjunction with a window and I believe you will see a big difference.

Also, you may consider using a ceramic heater, for whatever reason I seem to encounter a lot less moisture when using this heat form (maybe just a fluke).









Please don't take this the wrong way but the trailer size also limits the amount of "space" you have to disipate any moisture.



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Old 11-07-2009, 10:56 PM   #15
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Propane puts a lot of moisture in the air. Roof vent open or buy cheap 1500 watt electric heater to use. I have 2 in my camper and no moisture problem.
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Old 11-08-2009, 05:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papa2
Obviously a vent cover will help with splash back. I did notice the furnace took about a week before the odor disappeared in our first season of camping. Michigan is a humid paradise. Summers are hot and humid. Winters deliver wet snow...not the dry snow of the rockies. I've been to TN and it is no more humid (wet) there than it is up here. I have not seen a Zinger but I'm assuming you have the standard vent arrangement...one at each end + one in the bathroom.
There's one in the bathroom and one over the bed in the front of the TT. My husband put those vent things over them today so the rain doesn't come in. How do you get rid of condensation in winter by letting in even damper more humid air? Cracking our windows those weekends sure didn't help any.

Quote:
If it is just me and the dog, I crack the end vents about 1/2 - 1 inch open depending on the weather.
If we left our vents open that far the furnace would never shut off at all. There's little insulation in the walls of our Zinger. They get very cold. As it was the furnace ran quite a bit even with the Stanley electric heater going and it was in the 40s.

Quote:
My last trip it rained every day + got down into the 20s, so the vents were cracked about an inch. When it is me, my wife and the dog then i usually crack the bathroom vent as well. Add the grand kids in cold weather and I may crack a window or two up to about 1/2 an inch. The top vents seem to be more important than cracked windows.
Which Zinger version do you have that the furnace could keep it at 74 or so when it's 20 degrees with windows and vents cracked/opened? Our furnace would never shut off. We'd go through a tank of propane every day to keep the temperature comfortable.

Quote:
All that being said, you may want to check with other campers the next time you're out in cold weather to see what they're doing, check with friends and/or call the dealer you purchased your unit from. They may be able to give you good local advice.
I'm going to do that. I can't believe everyone just ignores heavy condensation. I didn't think to ask that last weekend.

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My previous trailer was an '83 Sunline. Best stick built trailer out there IMHO. Too bad they went out of business. We were so spoiled by that trailer it took a long time (5 years) to find one to replace it. As soon as we saw the ST we both knew it was the "one". I know you've had some issues with your Zinger, but I hope it works out for you.
I agree on the Sunlines. I got to see some at the Sunline Rally in PA last June. The quality and layouts can't be beat. We would have bought another one had they still been in business. As for the older TTs. I notice they have much more storage space inside. They also have more windows so are brighter, more cheerful. They feel more open. The windows may be smaller but there are more of them and they add cabinets above them. My main gripe with the Zinger19RD is lack of storage space, what's there is hard to reach, the horribly uncomfortable sofa-bed which we plain to replace and the condensation. These things can be worked out I'm sure.






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Old 11-08-2009, 05:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Propane puts a lot of moisture in the air. Roof vent open or buy cheap 1500 watt electric heater to use. I have 2 in my camper and no moisture problem.
How large is your camper? I don't think 2 electric heaters can keep our 19' Zinger comfortable. The condensation was forming before the propane furnace even came on. The cracked windows just caused a nasty chilly damp draft but we had to leave them cracked or suffocate.
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Old 11-08-2009, 05:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Yoou really don't have the air movement without a roof vent being open. Simply opening the window is not sufficient to circulate the air and remove moisture. Install the covers and leave them open in conjunction with a window and I believe you will see a big difference.
I guess we'll find out since he put the vent covers on today and we'll be leaving in less than 2 weeks. I'm sure it will be chilly enough in Atlanta to need heat at night. I guess I find it hard to understand how letting in cold damp humid air to replace the warm humid air in the TT would stop condensation. In other words we'll be exchanging cold damp air for warm damp air. Warm humid air is still going to come in contact with the cold window glass and that's what causes condensation.


[/quote] Also, you may consider using a ceramic heater, for whatever reason I seem to encounter a lot less moisture when using this heat form (maybe just a fluke).[/quote]

I'm not sure what a ceramic heater is. We have a Stanley electric heater we set on the stove for safety and a vertical oscillating fan for air movement.








Quote:
Please don't take this the wrong way but the trailer size also limits the amount of "space" you have to disipate any moisture.
And our TT is small. This is going to be interesting since we'll have to shower and cook in it on this trip (baking mostly) so they'll be more moisture going into the air than at the camping weekends.




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Old 11-08-2009, 10:37 PM   #19
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I have a 29ft zf27rl 5er and yes 2 electric heaters will keep us at 70 in 20 degrees. We leave the furnace set about 65 so if something happens to electric we still have heat in camper. We live in upstate NY and camp pretty much in all temps. from 18 to100 degrees. we also snowbird in the winter . This year will be 3 months in southern states. I find it hard to believe a 1500 watt heater won't take care of your camper,and be able to turn itself off and on doing it. There arn't to many who use just propane because of the moisture problems.
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:04 PM   #20
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I use almost exclusivly my Holmes ceramic heater, 1500w with thermostat/oscilating stand. My camper is 34' and it keeps the camper toasty until it gets in the 30's, then it will run off/on in conjunction with the propane furnace.
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