Fallen Fresh Water tank

[Bowhunter]

Just purchased new to me 2012 ZT 26bh. The Fallen tank issue was documented to original dealer (CW) by original owner prior to the two year warranty. The TT was taken (out of necessity) to another (CW) dealer by seller. The work order stated support failure causing tank to fall and two heavier supports were added. They cut the coroplast belly cover, and patched it. That was October 2014 (15 months ago)since CW did the repair. Sadly the original owner passed, I purchased TT from the estate with all tank repair documents. I was the first one to put water in the tank two days ago. It still bulges down and is leaking. I doubt I have any recall with the CW dealer who did the work, and doubtful the seller will be able to help.
Any advice is greatly appreciated. I m very handy. I can pull belly down and do what is necessary. If I need a new tank where can I get one? Thank you for any and all feed back.

[Lloyd]

I wouldn't think you would need a new tank. My guess is the leak is probably coming from either fill tube or the vent tube, or both.

You can fix the sag by adding a support under the middle of the tank. They use to have a sheet of plywood under the tank and a support going across on each side of it. On the older models that wasn't enough, and a lot of us added an additional support across the middle.

[Bowhunter]

Thanks Lloyd, I've read on previous posts about plywood. This is more feeling like an old water bed, like a bladder. Not firm or hard when pushing up. Feels like the coroplast is directly on the tank bottom. I only put about 15 gals in max. And it's a constant drip run from seam in coroplast. Do you think the coroplast was cut for access or is there typically a seam at the FW tank? Does the coroplast go bumper to ball? Also I feel a heavy amount of water weight when pushing up, yet I can't get anymore out of tank drain. I think I read where it does not drain fully. Odd compared to my last TT
Thanks again, any opinion on satisfaction from CW /CR dealer?

[Lloyd]

Originally Posted by Bowhunter

Thanks Lloyd, I've read on previous posts about plywood. This is more feeling like an old water bed, like a bladder. Not firm or hard when pushing up. Feels like the coroplast is directly on the tank bottom. I only put about 15 gals in max. And it's a constant drip run from seam in coroplast. Do you think the coroplast was cut for access or is there typically a seam at the FW tank? Does the coroplast go bumper to ball? Also I feel a heavy amount of water weight when pushing up, yet I can't get anymore out of tank drain. I think I read where it does not drain fully. Odd compared to my last TT
Thanks again, any opinion on satisfaction from CW /CR dealer?

Bud, I think you will have to open the bottom to see exactly what you have in there. If the coroplast is directly under the water tank, then that would be the place to start opening the bottom.. I don't know that CR use to use that stuff on the bottom. It has always been a membrane type material as far as I know. I'm not at all familiar with it. I've never used or really seen any.
If there isn't a sheet of plywood under the tank going from frame to frame, I would install one. I also ran an additional support across under the middle of the tank.

You are right in thinking the tank is heavy after draining. The drain line comes out the end wall about 3 in. up from the bottom. You will never get it empty unless you do some modification to the pick up tube.

As far as getting any help from CW /CR dealer, I don't think that will happen, but it certainly won't hurt to try.

[Bowhunter]

Thanks Lloyd. Fingers crossed, I will lower the coroplast enclosed belly.
I'm half thinking that the CW dealer repair may have put a couple tech screws through tank bottom where it sits on the edge of support beam. They have three in a row with a washer on each and looked like they put them in to hold up the coroplast after opening. I hope I am wrong. That's why I was initially asking where I can get a replacement if needed. Wonder if that is something I could get direct from CR. Thanks again. Maybe I will hear from others who may have coroplast enclosed belly on Zinger with similar tank support issue. Thanks again.

[Lloyd]

Once you drop the coroplast and see if you need a new tank, you can get the measurements and check with these people.



rv water tanks, Pronto.com

Tweetys.com - RV Parts & Accessories - RV Hitches - Fresh Water Tanks

Robot Check

[Bowhunter]

Thank you Lloyd. Very helpful.
I hope I don't need one, but once opened and assessed I will make it perfect.
I think a conversation and or a trip to my local CW to discuss a previous repair for the original now deceased previous owner would Be futile and an excercise in patience.
If I do it my self, I know it will be right. That enclosed underbelly sure hides a lot of sins.
Albeit a nice feature.
Thanks again

[woodwalker]

Originally Posted by Bowhunter

Thank you Lloyd. Very helpful.
I hope I don't need one, but once opened and assessed I will make it perfect.
I think a conversation and or a trip to my local CW to discuss a previous repair for the original now deceased previous owner would Be futile and an excercise in patience.
If I do it my self, I know it will be right. That enclosed underbelly sure hides a lot of sins.
Albeit a nice feature.
Thanks again

Call Tiara rv sales they are a crossroad dealer. Give them you vin# and they will get you the same tank if needed.

[Bowhunter]

Thank you, big help.
Appreciate any input re: the 2012 Zinger. Curious if I hear of any others having same issue. Great forum !

[harley]

If it is just a screw into the bottom , try a stainless screw with a rubber washer and maybe some butyl caulk/tape on it to plug the hole. wortha shot.

[Bowhunter]

Thanks, I can see that may work. I have a suspicion though the tech screws may have gone thru just an edge or corner of the tank (still guessing until I take coroplast down). If the tank sits on or catches just the edge of a cross member, that is where the screws go up holding the coroplast up.
In Fl now with unit returning to NY in May would be soonest that I want to or can physically do this project. Stored in an RV lot now where I made the recent purchase. Bummer for sure.. Thanks again for all input..

[Bowhunter]

Well just As I expected. I need a replacement tank...Grrrr! I Removed almost the entire enclosed belly coroplast down today from hitch end to center of two axles. What a job! Both sides ( 36) 3/8 hex head tech screws through the frame and retainer strip.
When they repositioned the tank (CW words) they screwed three heavy tech screws right through coroplast to hold it to the cross member, penetrating the water tank in three places along the tank edge where it rests on the cross member !!
Height of incompetence, and I have no recourse.
I will be on the phone in AM to Tiara RV as was recommended.
Looking so far there are none exact. What I have seen so far are generic, meaning requiring modification.
I have the part number sticker off the tank date and all numbers, hope this helps.
If not Tiara or other source, does anyone think I can call CR direct and give part number and just buy directly.....Iam desperate and grounded. All apart and can't use my new camper.
Thanks for any more advice....what a job!

[Randy68]

I would suggest using unistrut channel maybe 3 to 4 to support your new tank .

[Bowhunter]

Thanks, that is exactly what I did. I just finished the project successfully yesterday. I did a lot of searching after hearing a new tank from CrossRoads via my CW dealer 4 plus weeks (and that sounded optimistic). The tank is repairable. The holes were 3@ 1/8 diam. Watched several you tube just melt the plastic (plastic weld) and fill the holes. Went to Harbor Freight $17. Plastic heat weld gun with weld rods. Water tested the tank two days.....no leak. I cut 1/2" 4 ply plywood to exact tank size, then had my local steel shop cut four pcs 5/8 " square tubing to span the I beam and screwed those 4 up through beam and using 3/4 #10 self tappers so they don't slide around when the tank is empty. Made all connections, put plenty water in tank to test connections, and re installed the underbelly. No need for those useless straps, they didn't do anything. The coroplast is up straight and nice and tight.

[Steve7]

Great Job!!

[woodwalker]

Good looking job. By not using the metal strip on the coroplast you risk a chance of the plastic pulling out around the screw head. unless you used large flat washers as well

[Bowhunter]

Thx. If you look close, you can see where they put screws through the i beam rail, right through tank bottom..

[Bowhunter]

Thx. I owned a roofing company forty years and I used 2" diameter .045 ga. Rigid roof buttons (used for underpayment on flat commercial roofing) with 3/4" tech screws through all supports, also milled and added an extra support mid span to take any waves out of coroplast. All screwed 4 across, probably used twenty buttons total. Rock solid. Thx for compliment. The tank with repair was relatively easy uninstall/reinstall. The underbelly is a bear to completely remove, and reinstall..but it's done now time to enjoy.

[Lloyd]

Good job Bud. Now it's time to enjoy it.

[travelin texans]

For sure a 200% better job than ANY dealer would do, they don't give a rat's a## how it's done as long as it's out of the shop.