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05-22-2016, 06:30 PM
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#1
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New Camper
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 6
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Front siding removal
I will be looking for any helpful hints on removing the top 2 pieces of aluminum siding from my 28BH. My son hit it with a lacrosse ball leaving a good sized dent in the second down panel. I had my local dealer order a piece and it should be in soon. I assume that I will need to remove both corner rails, which looks like a pain due to a lot of sealant applied by the factory. Then remove the clearance lights and 2 panels. It also looks like CR applied silicone to every seam in the front of the rig. Looks like it's gonna be a pain to remove as well. Maybe use a plastic knife to get it out. Does anyone have any tips for this repair? Anyone...anyone?
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05-23-2016, 09:32 AM
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#2
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Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indiana
Posts: 258
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I'm not sure how many panels your trailer has but if you can, you would be better off removing from the bottom up and not removing the top panel if you don't have to. If you have to remove the top panel you will also need to remove the roof rail that goes across the top of the unit as well as the side moldings. If you can come up from the bottom this will eliminate having to remove that top piece and some extra work. Also coming up from the bottom will give you better access to the staples going across each panel (your metal will be stapled going up each side and stapled going across at each seam). When they put the metal on they start at the top and work down so to remove you really need to start at the bottom and go up. You should only have to take the side molding off up just pass the seam for the top and second panel and not completely off. When puting everything back together make sure you staple your metal back down, put some new putty tape on the back of the screw molding before screwing it down. Also make sure you silicon back down each side of the molding and back across each seam.
I helped my neighbor redo the front of his trailer last summer and the thing that will take you the longest will be pulling out all the staples. Of course his situation was a worse case because he had a bad water leak which rotted out some of the wood in the front wall which had to be replaced.
Good luck and I hope I helped!
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Phil & Janine
2010 Dodge Ram Crew Cab Short Bed 2500HD Cummins
2014 Cruiser 333RL
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05-23-2016, 10:18 AM
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#3
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New Camper
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 6
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Exactly why I asked
Thanks for he detailed info!! I was afraid I'd get that reply. The top rail does look like a pain to remove as I'd have to resell the rubber as well.
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05-23-2016, 10:25 AM
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#4
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Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indiana
Posts: 258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jagoss45
Thanks for he detailed info!! I was afraid I'd get that reply. The top rail does look like a pain to remove as I'd have to resell the rubber as well.
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Your welcome. Like I said your best bet is going to be to come up from the bottom. You wont have to remove the roof rail or the clearance lights. I'm assuming you have a total of 3 panels (2 metal & 1 diamond plate which seems to be typical for metal units these days).
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Phil & Janine
2010 Dodge Ram Crew Cab Short Bed 2500HD Cummins
2014 Cruiser 333RL
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05-23-2016, 10:34 AM
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#5
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 937
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X2. We toured factory - siding goes in from top down, so you will need to remove from bottom up. The lower panel tucks into a groove on the panel above it (kind of the reverse of vinyl siding). You won't be able to remove top panel without coming up from the bottom.
The dent sucks, but depending on how bad I would hesitate to open up entire front wall. You will need to remove corner mouldings and everything - a royal PIA for just a dent. Try a small plunger or something with suction to pull it out a bit first.
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Eddy & Brenda
Canton, OH
2015 Silverado HD 6.0L
2014 Zinger 32QB
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05-23-2016, 06:12 PM
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#6
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: la
Posts: 88
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Or an automotive dent puller from harbor freight.
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New Orleans, La.
04 CT30RL CRUISER
11 Tundra 4.6 w/tow package & Timbren suspension kit
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05-25-2016, 05:48 AM
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#7
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New Camper
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 6
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I already tried that. I went in from the inside and popped it out. However since its aluminum and stretches when dented, I now have a big zit where the dent was. If it wasn't right in the front I wouldn't consider doing it.
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05-25-2016, 04:31 PM
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#8
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Family Vacation Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 200
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How about a decal placed over it? I would be worried about future leaks if you have to remove the corner moldings.
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2012 Z1 271BH
2009 F150,4.6 3V. 3.73LS,9.75"
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05-25-2016, 04:42 PM
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#9
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New Camper
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 6
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Nope. Located too off center. A decal wold look weird up there. I've watched a bunch of videos and it doesn't seem to bad to re tape and seal the sides.
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05-25-2016, 04:42 PM
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#10
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New Camper
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 6
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I just wish Crossroads could figure out the right front decal to shop me
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