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Old 10-19-2015, 09:53 AM   #1
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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Air Conditioner

Sunset Trail Reserve 30 RKS
Ordered the trailer a few months ago. Asked the salesman if a single 15k BTU A/C unit was enough. Of course he responded. Our previous trailer was a 28 RLS Coachmen w/ a 13.5 unit. Also had a 13.5 unit on a 28' Jayco Eagle 5th wheel and a 30' Sunline Travel Trailer. No issues with any of them. All of the units would freeze you out. So we beleived the sales man that 15k unit in a 30' trailer would be fine. We primarily camp in the summer from VA to FL. We live in SW Florida pretty much full time.

Guess what....... If the outside temp is 85-87 or higher this 15,000 BTU unit will not chill the trailer below 79-80. Our first time trying the trailer was in our drive way while we were having the house central air replaced. 95 outside, 85 inside. It will run 24/7 if the outside temps are over 84. Dealer checked it out and nothing wrong. Said we need a 2nd unit in the master. Since we followed the sale man's advise we didn't order the 2nd AC prep. Now will have to rewire, replace the 30 AMP with a 50 AMP inverter, and remove the new power vent and cover in the master.

Any one else having issues with under performing AC units?????
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:19 AM   #2
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First, you don't have an inverter, you have a converter and you don't need to do anything to it for a second A/C. However, if you want 50 amp service so both A/C units then the breaker box and power cord must be replaced. That is probably what you are referring to. But most people in your situation simply run a separate 20 amp power cord for the 2nd A/C. This has the advantages of being much cheaper and if you are at a campsite with just 30 amp service, you can still run the 2nd A/C by plugging into a separate, normal 20 amp outlet next to the 30 amp outlet.

Second, while the unit may be operating normally, many of us find weaknesses in the system that may offer some improvement. The most common problem is air leaks at each of the outlets. You can pop off each grill to see if CR adequately taped the connection between the grill housing and the rectangular duct box. The other issue is air leaks between the divider at the air box, this allows cold air to be pulled back into the return side rather than flowing to the outlets.

Finally, a single 15k unit can be adequate with shade, slide toppers, closed curtains and setting the thermostat at a lower temp early in the morning so it cools the trailer early. You may also need to put the fan on manual mode and set it to high to maximize cooling.
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:20 AM   #3
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Air conditioner

Yes it is the power cord, breaker box that I was referring to.

Dealer checked the AC unit, return and duct work. No issues. I also installed Max Air vent covers. There isn't enough clearance to install an awning on the slide out.

Starting with a cool trailer, shades down, awning out, no one entering or leaving, no cooking, just an idle unoccupied trailer it won't maintain temp.

I even went up on the roof and covered the sky lights with white towels. Shut AC ducts in bath and master then closed off those rooms. Retracted the small bedroom slide and retracted the living room slide 75%.

Won't 30 amp and a 20 amp pop the park side breakers when both AC units are running?

This is a brand new trailer, used one trip. Kind of like buying a truck rated to tow 10,000 lbs then finding it will actually only move 7,000.

Really curious if others had similar issue with new AC units.
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:11 PM   #4
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I had an old Fleetwood Prowler that the roof air conditioner would freeze you out of it if you put it on high. My new trailer barely ever shuts off and that is with both ac's running full blast. I had the factory check it out and they tell me thats just the way it is. I suspect my new trailer is not insulated half as well as the old one. I am not a fan of the new Freon the old stuff seemed to cool way better. I also had a Enduramax by Gulf Stream between the Prowler and the Elevation it did not cool any better. Not much else to do but hope for cooler weather and park in the shade.
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Old 10-19-2015, 02:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWKohrman View Post

Won't 30 amp and a 20 amp pop the park side breakers when both AC units are running?
No, the 30 amp outlet and the 20 amp outlet are wired to two different hot legs of a standard 220 volt system and work independent of each other. Some people just run the 20 amp power cord thru a slide seal every time they use the unit. Others will use a twist lock connection in a box under the pin box or inside the basement storage.

A true 50 amp RV setup is two hot legs of 50 amps each, total 100 amp. The above setup is half that but still perfectly acceptable for two A/C units.
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Old 10-19-2015, 02:58 PM   #6
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You still need to try switching the fan mode to manual and then using the highest fan speed. The fan will no longer cycle off with the compressor, but it should provide greater cooling performance. Also if the unit has a 'Quick Cool' feature, try that as it sends more air directly into the room rather than thru the duct work. The problem with any of these RVs is that the duct work runs thru the ceiling which has very little insulation since the attic is just a couple of inches tall.

Regarding slide toppers, if your unit has enough room for a drip rail above the slide, then that is all that is necessary for a topper.

Just because the dealer checked out the duct work doesn't mean there isn't a problem, you should check it yourself. There are cases where the duct work has been smashed and/or cracked when the final insulation and decking is being installed. Pop off a grill and use a small flashlight and mirror to view the inside of the duct.
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:56 PM   #7
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A/C

When we took our 32BH out the first time A/C wouldn't cool past 80 even with high 70 type weather. Took to dealer and they found the wires for the sensor hooked up backwards up in the A/C. After the fix it works a lot better, if we cool the night before traveling it keeps the trailer around mid 70s during the day and will cut off at night around 70 even when we were in Cape Hatteras NC. I believe it would be better with a 2nd unit which we did pay for the hook up so down the road will probably get 2nd A/C.
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Old 10-19-2015, 07:29 PM   #8
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Mine had issues with the air conditioning too. The divider between the hot and cold air was leaking. It's nothing more then a piece of sheet metal and tape. Then the other large leak I found was a surprise. I pulled down the inside of the sky light so I could tint it. I had a decent hole in the wood used to frame the skylight. The ac was blowing into the sky light and roof. I taped it the best I could and it really helped.
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:58 AM   #9
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I have tried the quick cool feature for main area with the bath and bed rooms closed off. Yes, tried fan on high. No Good......... Same results.

I did climb on the roof to check the kitchen sky light. There is a large void (open space) between the outer dome and inner glass, trim. It is open to the roof beams. My plan is to remove inner frame, trim and seal it up. Also put a tinting film in the inside of the outer dome.

Might even consider removing the skylight and replace with a crank out vent and Max Flow cover if I can find the correct size. Sky light is a bit larger then normal vent. Wonder if it would be a suitable location for a 2nd AC unit?
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:30 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by JWKohrman View Post
Wonder if it would be a suitable location for a 2nd AC unit?
I think you would be much better off installing the 2nd AC in the over head vent in the bedroom. You should electric there to hook it to.
I doubt there would be electric handy in the bathroom sky lite. Plus, in my opinion, it will circulate better if installed over the bed.
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Old 10-20-2015, 06:58 PM   #11
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I was referring to the kitchen sky light, not bath room.
Bedroom has an electric fan/vent. I am thinking the kitchen sky light is where I am getting a lot of cooling loss. It is also the warmest spot in the trailer.
Trailer has 30 amp service so where ever 2nd AC unit it located I need to rewire either to 50 amp or as some one suggested wire it separately.
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Old 10-20-2015, 07:01 PM   #12
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I would pull the inside of that sky light down and look for ac leaks in the sky light. Mine had a big hole where the ac was blowing into it.

In my reserve the ac duct runs right beside the sky light.
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Old 06-16-2018, 06:34 PM   #13
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my 280 bh had the ends of the ac ducts open into the ceiling. i cut pieces of 1" blue board and foil taped them into place. also removed all duct grates and taped all seams on those. huge difference. the workmanship on some things is very disappointing for the cost of them
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