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Old 09-29-2013, 06:39 AM   #1
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I thought the front cap was a gel coat piece and should last longer than a normally painted surface. Mine is fading or oxidizing something terrible after a year a a half. I think my dealer wants to re-paint. Should the entire cap be replaced or should I let them re-paint it and then replace the decals?
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:32 AM   #2
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Sorry about your problem. We are experiencing the same thing with our 2012 Cruiser w/tan front cap. Do you have the 2 year warranty? Ours has the 2 yr warranty and I am wondering if this would be covered under that? Haven't taken it to the dealer, in Iowa,didn't want to ruin our camping plans this summerover a cosmetic issue.We arevery interested is seeing others replies. We've been watching to see if this issue comes up on the forum.
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Old 10-15-2013, 07:40 AM   #3
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Same issue here with our ST 20 CK, bought in march 2012. 2013 model.
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:13 PM   #4
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Dealer says paint was not military grade paint. They have had to re-paint several and have had no problems with them after the re-painting. They have new decals ordered so when I am done camping in November, I will take it in and get it fixed.
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:47 PM   #5
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I don't believe our dealer has the ability to do such a paint job, even assuming that they agree with me that it's a defect in manufacturing.

Has anyone contacted Crossroads directly on this issue?
If so, who do you call?
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Old 10-20-2013, 03:01 PM   #6
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I called and talked to customer service and Crossroads is aware of the issue. They already had the authorization request, so that was about all they could do for me. I think my dealer has a body shop take care of the paint job and the re-application of new graphics. Crossroads is aware that there are some caps with some problems. The manufacturer that they got them from messed them up. In my previous post, I said military grade paint, sorry, meant to say Marine grade paint.
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Old 10-20-2013, 03:15 PM   #7
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I'm confused why the dealer said is wasn't marine grade paint. Either is my car and it didn't fade. Does it have to be marine grade paint over fiberglass???

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Old 10-20-2013, 03:25 PM   #8
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Not sure, that is what i was told. They have repaired a handful with no problems after.
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:03 AM   #9
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Anyone able to post pics of what this looks like?

I just pressure washed, hand washed, dried, Rejex-ed, Hand wiped with clean microfibre, then Mothers Carnuba Waxed, hand wiped clean with microfibre.
After all that, it still has doesn't shine all that much, and has hazy spots. Nothing major, but nowhere near what I'd expect from a good clearcoat. I work with cars all day, and after doing a quick job with the same wax on my 2004 mazda, it shines MUCH better than that front cap.

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Old 10-24-2013, 02:09 AM   #10
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We contacted our dealership, sent pictures. They forwarded pictures to Crossroads. Received call from dealer the next day. Work approved by crossroads. Taking camper to dealer this weekend for the fix.
So, 2 days after our initial contact with our (super) dealership we are on the road to recovery.
Thank you Thompson Family RV and thank you Crossroads for standing behind your product.
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:04 AM   #11
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We have a Cruiser 2013, severe fading above the decal. Have it at the dealer now among other warranty issues and our free 6 month checkup coupon. Let you know what happens.



We have put on 20k since we have had it since may. Pleased with Croosroads part of it so far. Did have to have a Lippert Axle and Front Strut/Landing gear replaced. Which they did, we were on the road and it was easier to go by the factory. Service personnel were great.
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:16 AM   #12
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Are you running original factory tires?
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:20 PM   #13
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Still on the original tires, wear is good. Crossroads did replace the one, that had accelerated wear from the bad axle. I checked them when I repacked my bearings. Seals did leak from using the axle zerk fittings. I quess the grease squeezes by the seals. Tech at the factory suggested just repacking every 12K and only use the zerk fittings with the wheels jacked up and spinning while injecting grease.
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:03 AM   #14
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when using the grease fittings , make sure the hubs are warm/hot . pull the trailer for a while to warm them up and have your grease gun warmed up (lay in the sun for a while.)
or just give the fittings 2 shots of grease as soon as you get back and the hubs are warm . the grease that is inside the axle is already warm .this will allow the grease to flow forward and not get stuck at the back and get forced thru the seal .
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:03 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HCFR34
Seals did leak from using the axle zerk fittings. I quess the grease squeezes by the seals.




Tech at the factory suggested just repacking every 12K and only use the zerk fittings with the wheels jacked up and spinning while injecting grease.
That's why I always hand pack my bearings, plus, at the same time you get to actually see whats going on inside.

Did that tech, by any chance, happen to tell you how you should jack the rig up? (where to place the jack)?

Edited by: Old Farmer
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:37 AM   #16
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Good question about jack placement. It was a question I had and forgot to ask. We left for breakfast when they were replacing the axle and were done when we returned. I know they have large wooden supports stands that they put under the frame while they are working.



Myself I always stick it under the shackle that holds the leaf spring to the axle. Its a pain because your jack will be side ways under the frame and you will have to make short strokes to get it up.



Just looked like the safest way to prevent putting to much pressure on the axle.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:46 AM   #17
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Harley



Thats some good advise for using the zerk fittings. I'm definitely paranoid about using them now. Since the brakes were covered in grease (3of them) after it leaked past the seals I had to replace all my brakes. They sell the whole assembly now, instead of individual parts. Pads and little clips. Really it made it easier and you just remove 5 bolts and bolt on the new ones. (Sort of no thinking involved) The assembly was about $70 apiece and everything is new, seal is extra.



After putting 20K on them it was a resonable expense for peace of mind.



I checked my boat trailer axle seals (no brakes) and we pump the grease to it to push any salt water out. Guess what, the seals show no leakage, with out any brakes would not matter any ways. Go Figure.
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Old 11-03-2013, 02:06 PM   #18
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I'm having a friend of mine give me a quote on wrapping the front cap. He's going to match the color and then put something on the front for us. We are thinking of putting our family name on the front. This way the wrap will protect it from fading and take some of the brunt from road debris. I will let you guys know the cost and post pictures when we do it.
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:34 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wikdslo View Post
Anyone able to post pics of what this looks like?

I just pressure washed, hand washed, dried, Rejex-ed, Hand wiped with clean microfibre, then Mothers Carnuba Waxed, hand wiped clean with microfibre.
After all that, it still has doesn't shine all that much, and has hazy spots. Nothing major, but nowhere near what I'd expect from a good clearcoat. I work with cars all day, and after doing a quick job with the same wax on my 2004 mazda, it shines MUCH better than that front cap.

2013 (purchased August 2012) Sunset Trail 26BH.
Dark brown turns a milky brown. My rv was purchased in June and began chalking in August. Dealer just repaired. Not happy for the reason for the fade. Trailer is under shed when home. Was in Sun most of summer on trips. Concerns about rest of fiber glass fading
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:23 PM   #20
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Just got rv back and front cap was redone. Looks great. Still under warranty and there was no cost to me. I did demand an extended warranty and got it to cover repairs in future if needed. Got home and now the remote for slides and jacks won't work.
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