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Old 09-19-2015, 09:10 PM   #21
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this is my generator. It looks like the 220 outlet will also output 120v.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gpc97aox7h...05.57.jpg?dl=0
I think I am in good shape.
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:21 PM   #22
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Runs on propane. Nice! Yup, same connection as my generator.
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:42 PM   #23
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cGreat solution Burgy! This will give the output of the generator in a higher amperage format to the Z-1. Better than using the step-down to 20 amp (home style outlet) that he has in the kit. That would just give him enough for AC but not much else. Barely!



K5sat, get to know your generator closely! It has the capability to produce two outputs of 120VAC, which can yield 240VAC across the two hot wires. But it appears, with that switch, it can also put those two in parallel, giving you more amperage in a single 120 VAC line. That's what you are trying to achieve.
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:46 PM   #24
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Even a blind squirrel gets a nut every once in a while. Thanks for your help. After the walk-through yesterday and I got it home, it occurred to me that if I followed the advice of the serviceman, then I could not hook up my generator to the camper. I should have looked at the plug, I had forgotten the 220V will put out 110V too. Problem solved. Appreciate the help. First chance I get Sunday, I plan to give it a test run on the generator. It will certainly help in this Texas heat to turn on the AC.
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:47 PM   #25
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And I have a bigger doghouse when the need arises.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:00 PM   #26
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I hate to throw another vegetable into this stew, but here goes. Many (most?) generators today use a "floating ground." That is to say the 120VAC has, just like at home, a "hot" and a "neutral." In our homes, the neutral is tied at the breaker box to ground (green or copper wire). Your RV plug expects such an arrangement, and doesn't get it from the generator. No problem, everything works. But if you use any surge protector or green/red light power checking device, the generator will give bad results. There is a work around this, but it is outside the scope of this discussion. Just be aware, and enjoy that AC!
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:07 PM   #27
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With my ham radio equipment laying around, i can manage a ground rod.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:20 PM   #28
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Quote:
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With my ham radio equipment laying around, i can manage a ground rod.
K5sat, I can appreciate that, and as a former USAF electronic tech, I know well that you hams know a lot about this stuff.
That being said, if the neutral is not tied to ground (as it is at home, or in a campground outlet, but not in most portable generators), you would never know it. Your copper rod might produce a safe alternative path for a loose voltage to head towards, but it is not the same. Those surge guards/protectors like the one I use has LED lights that give warning when the outlet is not wired correctly. It looks to make sure there is a full 120VAC not only between hot and neutral (generator will pass) but also between hot and ground (generator will fail.)
Searching the internet on this is dizzying. All I am saying is that if you get weird indicators about your power, this could be why.
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:24 AM   #29
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Marty,
Definitely had not considered grounding problems with my camper or generator. Hooking up to a home will provide a ground, but a trailer is a completely different story. In addition to all the other equipment I have laying around, I have a couple of power cleaners too. I am sure you know, a power cleaner will eliminate the square wave produced by power inverters and UPSs. Good for PC's and electronics. I have read that using water pipe as a ground will cause the copper to deteriorate over time. A lot to think about. Perhaps a short copper pipe and Epson salt kept damp will get me through the week or so. As I am sure you know, with radio equipment I am concerned with ground loops, RF ground, and a electrical ground. Making my head hurt. I have an old PSM2 which should indicate if I have a good solid ground or not.
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Old 09-20-2015, 03:08 PM   #30
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Its easy to check and see if your neutral is bonded to ground with a multi meter. If it is not,just make a neutral ground bond plug.
http://www.noshockzone.org/generator...utral-bonding/


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Old 09-20-2015, 06:01 PM   #31
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Its easy to check and see if your neutral is bonded to ground with a multi meter. If it is not,just make a neutral ground bond plug.
Generator Ground-Neutral Bonding | No~Shock~Zone


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Thanks Jason! This was the ACTUAL article I was referring to, and was what I used when I made my neutral ground bond plug.

The discussion got off track with RF, signal and earth grounding, and maybe this link will better illustrate the point I was trying to make. Simply that in an RV, neutral and ground are not tied, and a generator normally will not do it either. As such, some things may act up.
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Old 09-20-2015, 06:17 PM   #32
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Glad I could help. I learned alot from that article, to include a standard generator (one without a special rv plug) only has half the rated wattage available when not using the 240v plug, because you are only using one leg of 120v. I found out a 3500 watt genny could not start the AC. As I only had 1500 watts available on that leg.

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Old 09-20-2015, 06:32 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by cw3jason View Post
Glad I could help. I learned alot from that article, to include a standard generator (one without a special rv plug) only has half the rated wattage available when not using the 240v plug, because you are only using one leg of 120v. I found out a 3500 watt genny could not start the AC. As I only had 1500 watts available on that leg.

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Yes! My gennie has a TT-30 RV outlet, but only 120VAC available, no 240. When you look at the schematic, and compare it to models that do offer 240, you see that the 240's have two independent windings, each producing 1/2 the amperage, but offering 240 VAC across them. Mine has two windings also, but are wired together, in parallel, so that only one heavy output of 120VAC is available at the TT-30 plug. Actually limited by a 25 amp circuit breaker. That path is then further reduced by a 20 amp circuit breaker on it's way to the regular, household, 20 amp outlets. That's why this man's salesman was nervous about using an adapter.
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Old 09-20-2015, 06:37 PM   #34
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Exactly

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Old 06-18-2021, 03:11 PM   #35
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I have the 3500watt predator inverter from Harbor freight its very quite and runs my 13,500 AC and everything we use.

I use propane on my icebox it works better and faster. I also use propane on the hot water heater. It weighs about 100lbs.
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Old 06-18-2021, 05:39 PM   #36
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I just bought a pair of Firman 2100i starting / 1700 running with the 50 amp parallel kit. It’ll run my 15k AC unit and I’ll be able to plug my 50 amp camper cord in. The PK also has a 30 amp twist lock plug.
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