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Old 08-08-2013, 03:36 AM   #1
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Hello

Issue:
I have a 2012 ST25RB I bought in November 2011. The heater has never worked properly. The heater will turn on and then turn itself right back off. Then because it was not on long enough to warm up the trailer to the set point on the thermostat the heater turns back on and repeats this cycle of on/off without ever warming up the trailer. The consequence of this is that the batteries run down fast over night.

Cause:
I took my trailer to a very large RV repair facility here locally that only does RV repair. They said that the issue is that the factory installed heater requires a minimum of four vents and preferably five vents and that the trailer only has three. This means that the inside of the heater gets to hot and the over temp sensor turns right back off. Additionally now the over temp switch stays in the over temp condition never opening back up.

Repair:
They are saying that to fix this properly they need to pull the heater and replace the over temp sensor as well as install another vent in the floor of the trailer for a total of around $1100.00. They recommend because this was not done right from the factory and unless rectified will continue to happen that I should go back to crossroads and have them pay for the repair.

Has any one else had this issue with the ST25RB?
How many vents do others have on their ST25RB?







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Old 08-08-2013, 03:59 AM   #2
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If your unit is still under the factory warranty (if it was a 2 year warranty than you are) I would be calling Crossroads today about the issue. I would put them and the repair facility that has your unit in contact with each other. Seems like there was someone else on the forum earlier this week having a heater problem due to only having 3 vents....
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Old 08-08-2013, 04:49 AM   #3
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The 26BH only has 3 vents as well, not sure if it is the same furnace in each unit, but I would guess if it was the 3 vents that is causing the issue more people would have this problem. I would also recommend calling the furnace manufacture directly as well and ask them the output requirements for the model that you have. Take their feedback and the repair facilities and get ahold of Crossroads. Perhaps it is as simple as a defective high temp switch, and no extra venting is required, also have you ensured it isnt the thermostat by making the contact directly at the furnace to see if you can re create the problem? I would guess the repair center tried this but worth asking.
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:38 AM   #4
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My 30RE has only 3 vents and I have no problem.
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:37 AM   #5
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Did you confirm all three vents are clear? You may have a restriction causing a really bad "back-pressure", triggering the over-temp. Their "fix" looks like a shot in the dark. Why are they recommending replacing the temp sensor AND adding a vent? If the missing 4th vent is the problem - why change the sensor? More research as noted above is required before parting with your cash.....

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Old 08-08-2013, 10:23 AM   #6
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All great input everyone thank you. I will check all your questions out. This is why this forum is awesome!

Thanks again everyone
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:30 PM   #7
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I had to go look, but I only have two floor registers. One in the main area and one in the bedroom. There are two in the wall just behind and above the toilet. not sure if those are heat or not. Only had a chance to use the heat once so far and it was not terribly cold. Seemed to cycle ok and heated up nice, but honestly once it got warmed up the fireplace kept it warm.
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:56 PM   #8
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Tim D,

What year is your ST25RB?

I have three floor registers and none in the bathroom.

Thanks again
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:51 PM   #9
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Our 2012 ST25RB has 3 vents. One "hidden" at foot of bed (in bedroom), and 2 floor registers in main area, and NONE in bathroom. On our first trip with trailer in winter, had same issue you mentioned. What I found trouble to be was one of the floor registers was directly under wall thermostat by bathroom wall, and whenever furnace came on the hot air would blow directly onto thermostat thus "satisfying" thermostat into thinking rest of trailer was warm and shut off....only to start sequence once again after couple of minutes and never heating the entire trailer. What I did was remove floor register under the thermostat, and cover the 1/2 of register that was blowing towards thermostat with a piece of cardboard trimmed to fit floor register. Never had the problem again. Entire trailer now heats up properly & furnace doesn't cycle like it did before. Check location of your register on floor, hopefully this is your situation and an "easy" fix!
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Old 08-09-2013, 01:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fgregory
Tim D,

What year is your ST25RB?

I have three floor registers and none in the bathroom.

Thanks again
It is a 2013. I have one register in the middle of main area (sink area) and one in the bedroom between foot of bed and entertainment center. That is it. I am not sure what the two black round registers on the wall behind toilet are for.
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Old 08-09-2013, 02:19 PM   #11
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Those 2 round vents in the bathroom of 2013 ST25RB's, I'm told are vents for ventilation for fridge in outside kitchen. Our 2012 ST25RB does not have them, but 2012 models have total of 3 heating floor registers. Third one which 2013 models do not have is by the door just before entering bathroom in main area.
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Old 08-09-2013, 02:42 PM   #12
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I looked again to make sure I wasn't missing something. Only the two floor registers. The one in main area sits just in front of the kitchen drawers and other in bedroom. Four AC vents total. Two in main area, one in bath, and one in bedroom. Those bathroom vents have directional louvers but no air comes from them. They are right behind where outside fridge is but seems odd they would vent the fridge into the conditioned space?
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:36 PM   #13
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the out fridge need vents in the bathroom when the out door is closed and sealed.unscrew one of the black round ones in the bah and you will see..
the 2012s have a floor vent by the converter and like stated before the thermo is right above it therefore heating the thermo to fast .(buy a vent deflector to redirect heat to the dinnette )the 2013s changed to a round vent above the converter and also moved the thermo to the right of the bath door.I have no problem with my '13 .
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:51 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harley
the out fridge need vents in the bathroom when the out door is closed and sealed.unscrew one of the black round ones in the bah and you will see..
the 2012s have a floor vent by the converter and like stated before the thermo is right above it therefore heating the thermo to fast .(buy a vent deflector to redirect heat to the dinnette )the 2013s changed to a round vent above the converter and also moved the thermo to the right of the bath door.I have no problem with my '13 .
Duh...that makes sense. Should have known as like you said there is one above the converter too.
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:16 PM   #15
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In reference to the cold bathroom. We'll typically spin the furnace port above the converter so that it blows in to the bathroom. Throw a towel over the door to keep it propped open if it doesn't want to cooperate. It helps. The water hose froze, overnight, our first trip out this year. The furnace and fireplace worked great.
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:23 AM   #16
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UPDATE!

I spoke to Crossroads and my repair center spoke with them as well. Crossroads pulled the prints and both verified the specs from the heater manufacturer. Crossroads confirmed it should have had four vents and their prints even showed a fourth going to the bathroom. Crossroads authorized the repair center to install another vent in the bathroom and replace the switch.Ill try it this weekend to verify repair.

If your heater is fine most likely it will always be without the need to modify.

Thanks everyone.
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