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Old 10-06-2019, 10:44 AM   #1
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Lippert Stabilizer Motor

Just back from a two week trip to Wyoming and back to Manitoba and along the way home we were setting up at a campground in Spearfish, SD and the rear stabilizer would not extend. The motor would run in both directions but the landing gear would not budge. I banged on the pads to see if they would move and tried to manually move them with the crank but nada.

The landing gear were in the up position so I left them like that and put up with the occasional rocking of the trailer. I didn't want to start removing parts until I got home.

I have heard of shear pins and then again are they roll pins (think that is what they called them). There is a metal tube on the end of the drive shaft on the motor where it connects to the threaded rod in the jack assembly. This tube appears to have a two small diameter pins in it. It is possible that may be broken off on the inside but can't be sure as yet.

If these pins are the problem, how do I remove and replace them?

Is the motor shot even though it operates?

What else can be the problem?

Thanks for any advise you may have on this one.
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Old 10-06-2019, 12:43 PM   #2
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Sounds very much like you have sheared pin(s). A roll pin is just that, a tube of metal that forms a pin. A shear pin would normally be solid.

Call Lippert Tech Support (574)-537-8900 with the name or type of stabilizer you have. They should be able to identify just what you need. It will probably cost more to ship the replacement than it costs. Recommendation - get more than one.

If at all possible, get the proper pin. You could find something else to fit, but the breaking value could be too high or too low.

As far as getting them out, it will take a pin punch with a slightly smaller diameter than the pins. Getting the inner and outer parts of the shaft lined up will be a mother bear.

For example

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piec...60e266b2436189


https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piec...07470f54d93b5b


Hope this helps.
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Old 10-06-2019, 02:52 PM   #3
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Thanks myoungcc for the quick response. I will look into the punch set locally after I find out the size of roll pin from Lippert.

Not sure if you have replaced these yourself in the past but mine looks like it has two pins in the metal tube that the motor shaft fits into. From the pictures of the motor, the shaft is split as if to slide into a matching notch on the jack frame itself.

Questions are: Are these pin(s) meant to go through the tube and through the open space on the shaft and out through the tube on the other side OR through the tube and into a small matching hole on the shaft and into the tube again on the other side?

Just thinking, I may be able to punch the broken pin in so far and continue by using a new pin to drive the old pin all the way out. I can see if you have to re-find and align the holes on the shaft by cranking the motor would be a real pain. Much like winning the lottery.

Would it be better to take the motor off completely and replace the pin?

While I'm at it, I also noticed what appears to be a bearing between the tube and the jack frame. The allen screw is missing and it just vibrates around. Do you know what that part is for.
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Old 10-06-2019, 03:02 PM   #4
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Get the make/model off the stabilizers & look up the manual online. Most likely will show all pieces/parts + most all auto parts store will have assorted roll pins & shear pins. Check HF for a plastic container full of assorted pins when there getting the punches. This should be quicker & probably more accurate than waiting for Crossroads to respond.
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Old 10-06-2019, 06:23 PM   #5
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Yak Herder,

I like the handle.

Your configuration could be any of the ones you have mentioned. Normally you won't know until you get there.

Yes, aligning all the holes is going to be tough. Can you turn the jack motor manually? There may be a lug or a stud on the end of the motor. Look for a rubber plug or something like that. Disconnect the jack power leads before you start cranking around on the motor manually. No more than you will be turning it, there should not be a problem. But, if you are driving the jacks manually to move them up and down, Lippert tells me the motor then acts like a generator and will apply voltage to the controller. Not always a good thing.

Yes, assuming you get everything lined up and the sheared pin on the way out, you can drive it on through with the new pin. Don't get in a hurry. Put down the sledge and pick up the tacking hammer

If it is not all that difficult to remove the motor, it will probably make life easier. Better working on a bench than crawling around underneath a trailer.

As far as the Allen screw, I have no idea just what it is for. Does the other jack have one? If so, a replacement would be in order. If not, move along, nothing to see here.

Travlin Texans has the right idea. See if you can find the parts breakdown for the jack.

Not a whole lot of help on this one. You are asking good questions, I just don't have all the answers.







Quote:
Originally Posted by Yakherder View Post
Thanks myoungcc for the quick response. I will look into the punch set locally after I find out the size of roll pin from Lippert.

Not sure if you have replaced these yourself in the past but mine looks like it has two pins in the metal tube that the motor shaft fits into. From the pictures of the motor, the shaft is split as if to slide into a matching notch on the jack frame itself.

Questions are: Are these pin(s) meant to go through the tube and through the open space on the shaft and out through the tube on the other side OR through the tube and into a small matching hole on the shaft and into the tube again on the other side?

Just thinking, I may be able to punch the broken pin in so far and continue by using a new pin to drive the old pin all the way out. I can see if you have to re-find and align the holes on the shaft by cranking the motor would be a real pain. Much like winning the lottery.

Would it be better to take the motor off completely and replace the pin?

While I'm at it, I also noticed what appears to be a bearing between the tube and the jack frame. The allen screw is missing and it just vibrates around. Do you know what that part is for.
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Old 10-06-2019, 10:19 PM   #6
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Thanks for the info on this. I have the parts manual for the jack but it does not break down the small parts just motor, brackets, landing pads, etc.

I'll call Lippert for the exact size. They list two roll pins sizes 5/32and 3/32 but do not say which jack they are for. Both are 1" long.

Great being retired and having a project to work on. Also, great having this site to go to for info. But, winter is coming on here and trailer is in storage down the road so may have to leave till spring.

Got the handle when I lived in Mongolia. That's me with a Golden Eagle used by the Kazak hunters of Western Mongolia for hunting anything from a rabbit up to a wolf. Pretty impressive bird. I used the handle for Geocaching and when I came here decided to keep my aliases to a minimum.

Thanks again
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Old 10-07-2019, 12:46 PM   #7
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On mine I removed the motor (2 or 4 small bolts I can't remember for sure) making it easier to remove broken pieces of pin from motor coupling and shaft with the proper sized punch. The smaller pin goes inside the larger pin. Put the motor back on and turn the long shaft with channel locks to line up holes. The holes may have been drilled off center, you might have to turn shaft 180 to get proper alignment. Gently drive in pins. You should be able to get roll pins at local hardware, farm store or auto store.
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Old 10-07-2019, 05:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oliver View Post
On mine I removed the motor (2 or 4 small bolts I can't remember for sure) making it easier to remove broken pieces of pin from motor coupling and shaft with the proper sized punch. The smaller pin goes inside the larger pin. Put the motor back on and turn the long shaft with channel locks to line up holes. The holes may have been drilled off center, you might have to turn shaft 180 to get proper alignment. Gently drive in pins. You should be able to get roll pins at local hardware, farm store or auto store.
And grease pins as they are steel and will rust.
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Old 10-08-2019, 10:49 PM   #9
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Back at the trailer today to clean up and put away for the season. I that planned on leaving the stabilizer jack issue till the spring but I was working in that area and had a few tools with me, so.

Cranked, banged and pried on the jack leg but would not budge. As I couldn't easily get at the hex bolts holding the motor I removed the bolt holding the two arms on the motor side of the jack. The bottom two hex screws on the inside were now accessible and easy to remove. They screw into part of the frame that holds the motor. The top two hex screws on the outside above the motor have a nut and washer on the inside. You can locate them up inside the frame of the jack. I believe it is a 5/16 nut.

Once removed you can see inside the motor coupler. This coupler (picture attached) has two holes drilled through side to side. These holes are meant for the roll pins. In mine, the roll pin closest to the motor was still present and appeared to be in good shape.

At the other end of the coupler I could see the end of the threaded rod and I suspect that the other roll pin goes through the coupler and through a hole in the threaded rod and into the coupler.

Thus, if all is working properly: the motor, which has a split in the shaft to accept the pin in the coupler which rotates the threaded rod which is attached to the coupler by the other pin. If either one breaks the threaded rod does not turn and the legs do not go up or down.

There are two sizes of roll pins that are listed for the Lippert Stabilizer Jack Parts : LC125462 and LC181003. These are of slightly different sizes and are the only ones listed for this jack and coupler.

The roll pin on the threaded rod side of the coupler was sticking out by approx. 3/8" and not flush with the coupler body as it should be. There was no way of telling where the aligning hole was in the threaded rod so I did not try driving it in. The coupler will turn on the threaded rod using pliers but will not come off. It appears that the broken part of the pin is jammed inside.

At this time, I do not know which pin goes in which hole but hopefully someone out there may no. If not, I'll call Lippert. Some have said that the small goes inside the larger one but I'm not sure. You would think that Lippert would sell them as a matched set if it was meant for the same hole. We will find the answer!

Plan now is to remove the jack completely and work on it on the bench at home. Snow storm in the forecast for the next few days. Got metal screws out with torque drill but could not get two bolts that are rusted on. Liquid Wrench may help.

NOTE: I removed the motor and disconnected all the wires from the electrical box. If the motor is still good I would just unscrew the motor from the jack so you don't have the rewiring job later.

This is a lengthy diatribe but hopefully it may help someone else when they are looking up under the trailer saying what the......
Attached Images
File Type: jpg lc113406_2_250.jpg (6.1 KB, 87 views)
File Type: jpg LC125462.jpg (3.4 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg LC181003.jpg (2.9 KB, 86 views)
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Old 10-09-2019, 07:27 AM   #10
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Has anybody thought of just replacing the roll pin with a grade 5 or 8 bolt of the same diameter and length? It would sure be simpler then the double roll pin setup that's being used.
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:01 AM   #11
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If i understand correctly the roll pin acts as a shear pin.
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:03 AM   #12
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From looking at the location of the pins and shaft inside the frame of the jack I would have to say that there is no room for a bolt and nut to rotate with the shaft. There is not much room there.

Also, not sure if the roll pins are designed to break under a certain load as do shear pins in order to save the motor or other gears in the system. By the time a grade 5 or 8 roll pin or shear pin would break the motor or gears would be toast.

A better design would have been to weld the coupler to the threaded rod and only have the one roll pin on the motor end to worry about. This pin would be easier to replace as the space it needs to go through on the shaft is approx. 1/4" wide x 3/4" long. Just unscrew the motor and with long nosed pliers you can feed the pin through the other side of the coupler.

The Lippert manual for he jack identifies the major parts but does not give part numbers for them or does it describe these smaller parts. I just found the part number for the bearing I noted in my post from the other day. Not sure if I have to replace that yet, but now I know what it is.
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:12 AM   #13
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I'm not sure if the roll pin was designed as a shear pin for this application but the roll pin would break before a Grade 5 or 8 bolt would. I would rather replace an $1.00 roll pin than a $1200. stabilizer jack.
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Old 10-09-2019, 10:04 AM   #14
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The way I understood it being explained, was the smaller roll pin was driven inside the the larger one. To me that would make a pretty stout shear pin.
I didn't realize there wasn't room for the head of a bolt and a nut on the other end.
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Old 10-10-2019, 11:48 AM   #15
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I agree with you on that Lloyd, that doubled up pins would be quite strong in this application.

I was not sure if the pins were meant to be doubled up or one for each hole in the coupler (motor side/threaded rod) and were different size pins.

Went to the oracle at LCI this morning and spoke to Dave. Bottom line, he could not give any enlightenment on the placement of the roll pins nor could he direct me to anyone that could. Suggested that I may need a new jack and offered to direct me to parts department. Did advise that if the jack would not operate manually that there may be a burr on the shaft. Again sounded like I needed a new jack, he said.

I still have to remove the two rusted bolts to get the jack off the trailer and take home to work on. I'll see how things look better working on a bench than looking upside down on the cold wet ground. It will give me something to do this winter.

I'll post what ever I find for future reference to others.

AND, I will double the roll pins where they go through the threaded rod and leave the existing one(s) on the motor side of the coupler.
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Old 10-10-2019, 01:11 PM   #16
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Just got off the phone with someone who had this problem and this is what i learned. They have a SOB camper and while at the FROG rally last year Forest River replaced the stabilizers with new ones. The problem was the motor ran but the jack would not lower - the last time he raised it up it made a "pop" and the motor would run both directions without the leg moving. The tech doing the swap said that they were starting to see the "early" production stabilizers do this. Basically it had sheared the roll pin that coupled the motor shaft to the screw and the "new" design had a doubled roll pin to withstand the torque of the motor in "extreme situations". When asked what that meant he was told sometimes people try to jack up the camper with the stabilizers putting so much pressure on them that the roll pins would break. The solution was a double pin of a slightly larger diameter.



Oh and SOB = Some Other Brand.
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Old 10-10-2019, 02:01 PM   #17
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Bolt shear strength

Apparently there are no charts for bolt shear strength. A quick Google reveals that it is commonly considered that the shear strength is about 60% of the bolt's tensile strength. I found this reference. There are others.

https://www.portlandbolt.com/technic...onsiderations/

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-10-2019, 02:30 PM   #18
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Apparently i misinterpreted the information so i removed it from my previous post.
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Old 10-10-2019, 03:44 PM   #19
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The attached link is how to calculate shear strength. It's a basic for ME's to be able to perform these calculations when designing. There are many other. Just Google "Shear Strength Calculators".
https://www.engineersedge.com/materi...hear_calcs.htm
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Old 10-13-2019, 06:57 PM   #20
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Check keyway

Can I throw another suggestion at you? Once you've replaced the roller pin, test it before you remount it to the assembly. If the motor turns and the connector does not, the you need to replace the woodruff keyway. You'll need to separate the motor from the gearbox. You'll see the drive shaft with a slot cut into it. It will take a square keyway, you should be able to find replacements at most hardware stores or small engine repair shops. I hope this helps.
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