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Old 07-01-2012, 12:56 AM   #1
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We have a 2012 Sunset Trail Reserve 28FL, on the roof would it hurt to use a rubber roof conditioner on the roof? We had a Pligrim TT and I use to use the conditioner on the roof 3 or 4 time a year. What would anyone recommend.
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:01 AM   #2
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They don't recommend a conditioner on the roof of any CR product. Just periodic washing will do the trick.



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Old 07-01-2012, 08:00 AM   #3
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The roof on the 28FL looks real flimsey, is it safe to walk on? I can litterly push down on the roof with my hand and it flexes, is this normal?
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:14 AM   #4
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the roof conditioner is a waste of money, crossroads and the roof people will tell you the same, just use some spic and span and a soft brush, just make sure you rinse really good..
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Old 07-02-2012, 02:22 AM   #5
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I was told by my dealer that the roof is not EPDM and not to use products on it.



I weigh about 200lbs and went up on the roof to install vent covers. The 3/8" decking seems really fragile - plenty of flexing. When I wash my roof, I'm doing it with a brush standing on a ladder, not the roof.
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Old 07-02-2012, 04:26 AM   #6
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Wincrasher,
I agree it seems flexible, but how do the techs get up there to install the roof vents, etc. I would gladly pay an extra $200-300 for an upgrade to 1/2 inch or more. I almost wish some of this could be an add on when the unit's are built, but I guess

I'm heading to CW today to try to find one of those hooks that will allow me to carry my ladder so I can clean the roof off without walking on it too.

Thanks,
Jim
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Old 07-02-2012, 04:50 AM   #7
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If you use spic & span to clean your roof, be prepared to re wax the camper. No matter how careful you are, you will have streaks down the side of it where it cleaned the wax off.





Edited by: Old Farmer
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:03 AM   #8
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My dealer got on the roof to change out the a/c unit - so you had the weight of 2 technicians plus probably the old and new AC units. Is the plywood all cracked? who knows until it leaks!



They really should make a PVC plywood product like they do the deck boards. You could have a 5/8'' sheet that is 1/2 the weight and stronger than fiberglass. You probably wouldn't need a rubber top layer either, since it's impervious to water and UV.



I carry a collapsable ladder I found on Amazon. It was pricey, but it fits in the forward outside comparment without taking up alot of space.Edited by: wincrasher
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:49 AM   #9
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During my PDI, the service manager at my dealer said that these roofs are not designed to be walked on. He indicated that if you step on the plywood part in between the ribs you should expect to break it. He recommended that I work from a ladder (when inspecting and caulking) or if walking was essential, that it be done near the outside edge and only on the supporting ribs.
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:56 AM   #10
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I'm starting to think that this travel trailer is cheaply built. There is no way I could inspect and caulk if needed from a ladder. And I was planning on installing roof vent covers, but since the roof is poorly built I'm having second thoughts. And I'm also wondering about the roof, if we get any snow this winter.
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andreah
I'm starting to think that this travel trailer is cheaply built. There is no way I could inspect and caulk if needed from a ladder. And I was planning on installing roof vent covers, but since the roof is poorly built I'm having second thoughts. And I'm also wondering about the roof, if we get any snow this winter.

It is a balance between weight and strength. You can't have both, with current technology. They can build it lightweight and keep these large units manageable with light trucks, or you can have a unit that is strong and more closely resembles a mobile home.
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:11 PM   #12
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Andreah,
I think the roof the way it is built will take the snow, and disperse the weight over the ribs that support the plywood. But, unless you weight over 200 I would not worry about walking on it, but it probably would help to walk on the trusses or ribs as they are called here. IMHO

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Old 07-04-2012, 04:46 AM   #13
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A dealers generally have no idea what they are talking about, so take whet they say with a heavy dose of skepticism.



I'd not say the sunset trail is cheaply built. I find that in most regards, it's as good as the rest a

and better than most. If you do your research, you'll find most all trailers, fivers and motor homes employ the same or similar roof construction - that is 3/8" plywood on trusses on 16" centers. This is fine for the structure of the vehicle and equipment, but is limited to foot traffic and cargoes. Many trailers have a sticker saying no more than 200 lbs. so if you are more than that, tread carefully.Also, don't allow a fat technician on your roof!



Other than installing my vent covers, I have no plans to go up there again other than to maybe recaulk in a few years. Cleaning can easily be done with a long handled brush fro

a ladder.



When it was up on there last, it felt ok under foot, maybe a little flexy. When I got down on my knees it was more concerning, as the point load of my knees was between trusses. That's when I heard cracking noises.



Good luck on what you decide.
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:11 AM   #14
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I was on the roof of our new ST25RB this morning and noticed the same flex between the roof trusses. When I go back up there in the spring, to install a fantastic fan, I plan on cutting a 2x8 in to two ~4' lengths to span across the trusses; distributing the weight.


The two pieces will give you a spot for your knees and toes as you kneel on the roof or if you're washing the roof you can hop scotch the boards to move the length of the coach.

Obviously, you will have to take care to not damage the roof membrane as you place and move the boards. A router and round-over bit around the bottom edge would help decrease that risk.

My $0.02.

Brent


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Old 10-03-2012, 04:39 AM   #15
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I haven't looked at the Sunset Trail roofs...aren't they the same rubber material as our Zinger?

Our roof flexes a bit (I only weigh 140#), but I can also see the seams in the plywood via a small bubble in the membrane. It holds me if I step inbetween, but I try to stand on rafters when on the roof...just makes sense. Hey...I'm not up there to go dancing...


Edit: I use Thetford cleaner/conditioner. Works great.
Edited by: ewbldavis
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:55 AM   #16
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I bought a sheet of 1/2 plywood and ripped it in half. This gives you 16 foot, 2 foot wide to work with. I feel safer and don't worry about falling through the roof.
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