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Old 08-25-2012, 12:36 AM   #1
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Hi,

Anyone else having trouble with the electric stabilizer motors dying? The rear one quit on my first trip out and I had to remove it before I could operate it manually. The front one quit a month ago and again I had to remove it before I could put the stabilizer down.

Twice now, lying in the mud in the rain. Good thing I had tools.

The worst part is my dealer tells me they have been waiting for a replacement motor from Crossroads for 3 weeks...
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Old 08-25-2012, 12:57 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtippie
Hi,

Anyone else having trouble with the electric stabilizer motors dying?

The worst part is my dealer tells me they have been waiting for a replacement motor from Crossroads for 3 weeks...
If you do a search , you should come up with a few posts where others are having the same issue.
Your dealers statement is also a good indicator.
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Old 08-25-2012, 02:12 AM   #3
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Mine rear stabilizer motor failed this spring - 3 weeks to get it replaced.
At least it was the motor only so I could operate the stabilizer manually. No issues after the replacement - wiring looks better on the replacement motor.

Manual link:
http://www.lci1.com/images/Flyers/Ow...jack-web21.pdf

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Old 08-25-2012, 02:30 AM   #4
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I've replaced the rear and then the front one twice already. I put self resetting circuit breakers on the motor wiring and this seems to have solved the problem. The switches seem to be sticking while on the road and burning the motors up.
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Old 08-25-2012, 04:08 AM   #5
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I read the manual when I had trouble on the rear jack. It would be nice if they told you that disconnecting a wire on the motor doesn't work. You actually have to remove the motor before that cheap manual crank will turn the screw.



Good idea about the circuit breakers. I'll try that.
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Old 08-25-2012, 04:47 AM   #6
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Mine came with self resetting breakers. The first switch tended to stick. They replaced the switch when they replaced the motor. I have a remote that will operate the jacks - I use it sometimes so I don't have to hold the switch in the up or down direction (raise on the remote is to raise the rear and lower is to lower the rear).

Edited by: NorskeNY
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Old 08-25-2012, 11:42 AM   #7
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I had my rear motor replaced 3 times before they found out the switch was sticking in the up position and would burn the motor up. I now us the remote a whole lot more. Don't like using the switch in fear it might stick and not notice it before it was to late. It is sad that I can't trust the switches.
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Old 08-31-2012, 02:59 AM   #8
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I believe the major problem with the motor issue is the placement of the Extend/Retract switches on ground-facing portion of trailer skirt. They tend to get all the overspray from truck & trailer tires, causing moisture to work into the switches, causing them to corode or stick to the extent that motors will actually operate to the point of burn out. Our 1st trip in our brand new ST25RB, we pulled over into a rest area while travelling to nap for cpl hours. I heard the sound of a stabilizer motor operating "all by itself", and when I went outside I saw that the rear stabilizer had extended partially. Luckily I was able to bring stabilizer bk in with motor...but afterwards I was thinking "what if" these things operate while we're in truck & these things operate to the maximum extension because of the coroded switches. I spoke to someone at Crossroads (I forgethis name now), but he said to get some kind of spray undercoating (from Walmart or Auto store) & spray on wires & small bit on switch portion as well to "seal" it. I am personally thinking of possibly installing 2 small exterior hatch box's with door to put switches into to eliminate this problem. Bad choice on Crossroads part to locate switches where they did. I've had to replace both front & back motors & switches once....and each time motors are never in stock so you must wait 2weeks to a month. Thank God I was able to replace last motor myself so wouldn't have to drop trailer off at dealers 75 miles away. Edited by: Tonemeister
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:09 AM   #9
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Where did you get self resetting breaker an did you install them that after the remote panel?
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:49 AM   #10
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The circuit breakers on ours is behind the battery box and below the connections for the remote controls - they are under the black plastic cover.



Edited by: NorskeNY
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:57 AM   #11
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Where did you get the "self resetting circuit breakers" and how much did you pay for them. If the switch was stuck in either extract or retract position, wouldn't the breaker justkeep "recycling" on & off since it is "self recycling"?? (until switch was put in normal "off" mode)
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:15 AM   #12
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Mine came with the trailer - you may have them too - just have to figure out where they are located.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:51 PM   #13
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An Update to my earlier posts on the electric stabilizer motors.

On my trip before last, the front motor burned up because the switch activated while I was driving. Fortunately it activated the retraction instead of extending.

After three of these motors I have given up and now I use an electric drill to extend and retract both front and rear.

I've removed the fuses under the kitchen drawer and disconnected the wiring to both of the switches.

It's easier, faster, and quieter than those motors.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:33 AM   #14
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Our back motor quit working the first time we ever tried to use it. Again, CR solution is for me to hire someone to come fix it and then CR reimburse us for the expense.
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:17 AM   #15
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Sounds like they are stepping up to the plate for you. Not all manufacturers of RVs will offer to pay for some other fix-it person/dealer to do repairs. Usually, you have to haul it back to a dealer.

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Old 04-29-2013, 01:08 AM   #16
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For us it was the front set that seemed to burnt out, right now my RV is at the dealer being inspected for the first year small issues to be fixed up, my converter also seemed to be not working when I pulled my RV back from winter storage...
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:55 AM   #17
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I had to have my rear stabilizers replaced as well. The motor simply died. It took about 3 weeks to get parts from Crossroads.

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Old 05-17-2013, 02:12 PM   #18
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I looked at mine and one switch had silicone on the connector (which should keep water from gettin in from the top )and the other didn't have any silicone. ???
I siliconed each connector top but am thinking about getting a box talso to stop road water and gunk from messing with the switches.

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Old 05-17-2013, 03:50 PM   #19
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Harley just did the same to mine and wrapped the plug with waterproof tape!
I am thinking of something like a mini mud flap in front of the switch just to keep the majority of the water out of it?
I've also sealed the power wire going into the motor to keep out any water as well.

Thanks guys for making me aware of the issues!


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Old 05-18-2013, 04:06 PM   #20
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Had my trailer for a month and the rear motor quit. The dealer told me to look for the fuse. The wire goes into the enclosed underbelly so I can't follow it to a fuse. Looks like the weather has taken a toll onthe wiring and switch while it sat in the dealers lot.
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