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Old 05-14-2018, 04:39 PM   #1
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Waste Valve Replacement

After dropping my trailer off three weeks ago, my dealership now says they wont have time to replace my leaking black tank valve before May long, and probably not until June! I'm going to pick it up from them on Thursday and do it myself.
The dealership is aways away and I would like to order a replacement valve to be here for the weekend, but since I don't have the trailer right now, I have to ask you all what I should buy? Are they standard valves that you can pick up on Amazon or a hardware store? How do you get the long handle extension or can you re-use the old one?
Is it ridiculous to remove the underbelly plastic or should you just cut an access window in it?

thanks in advance

Evan
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Old 05-14-2018, 07:12 PM   #2
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I replaced mine last year with an electric valve from DrainMaster. The valve is probably a Valterra & should be available from Amazon or most any online dealer (eTrailer.com, maybe). Just saw that you are in Alberta so that could be interesting shipping internationally.

You can get them with the long cable (which is why I replaced mine, the cable started sticking). If you want to try, Bontrager Surplus in White Pigeon, MI had them on the shelf so you might try there. I've seen them there that the cable was separate so maybe you can reuse your old one. If so, lube it good while you have it out. It seems that some of the valves can have replaceable seals but I have no experience with those.

Make sure your tank is empty before you start the project (goes without saying). From the DrainMaster site, you could possibly pull the old valve & slide the new one in place.

Good luck.
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evan View Post
After dropping my trailer off three weeks ago, my dealership now says they wont have time to replace my leaking black tank valve before May long, and probably not until June! I'm going to pick it up from them on Thursday and do it myself.

The dealership is aways away and I would like to order a replacement valve to be here for the weekend, but since I don't have the trailer right now, I have to ask you all what I should buy? Are they standard valves that you can pick up on Amazon or a hardware store? How do you get the long handle extension or can you re-use the old one?

Is it ridiculous to remove the underbelly plastic or should you just cut an access window in it?



thanks in advance



Evan

You really need to get it in the air and remove the underbelly. Just s bunch of sheet metal screws holding it in place. It’s a job to replace since your on your back and. Well...it’s a black tank valve.


If you mean by leaking it’s not fully shutting off at the gate completely you may want to take a pass at crawling under there and wait till you have your trailer in again for service at another time (like the end of the season). That said you can use a temporary valve at the connection. I carry one with me for emergencies. I’ve had my gate bust on a trip. Not fun.

This one attaches at the sewer hookup. Here’s a link.


Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BGHYJS..._CwK-Ab7SS7DRJ



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Old 05-14-2018, 08:33 PM   #4
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BTW

You do not want to start hacking up the underbelly. First, you need room to work in there to access the valve and the cover does serve a purpose.


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Old 05-14-2018, 08:36 PM   #5
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I have to agree with OhioMark. Use the emergency valve he listed and leave this to the end of the season. Anytime you are messing about with the black tank, it needs to be empty & hopefully dry.

Dropping the belly pan is no fun. Someone passed along a tip for cutting into the cover. Use Gorilla tape & heat it. The tape basically won't come off.
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Old 05-14-2018, 09:32 PM   #6
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Many members always use that Valtera valve at the discharge tube. It’s nice to have in case of leaks, and also you can combine the capacity of dual grey tanks with it. It just twists on. Then you will have time to get it fixed at your convenience.
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Old 05-14-2018, 10:11 PM   #7
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I'd get the rv back & go use it, with or without the extra valve, & see if maybe whatever is in the valve washes out.
Chances are you don't need an entire valve, that requires cutting/gluing the ABS piping, but just need the new gate &/or seals. Do this by removing the 4 bolts on the valve & pull the gate out that's sandwiched in there, repair/replace the gate, replace seals & lube all internals with some plumbers grease.
Other than being on the black tank & having to lay on your back, it's not a difficult job, as mentioned be sure to drain/rinse the tank thoroughly.
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:44 AM   #8
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Not sure how old your unit is but mine had to be replaced on my 2016. Dealer said they have had to replace quite a few of these on newer model CR units. Maybe a bad run of valves?


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Old 05-15-2018, 07:32 AM   #9
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Thanks for all the replies.
The Unit is a 2016, so maybe it is in fact a bad run of valves.
I would think it is the seal, as the "liquid" drains into the discharge piping and the "solids" stay behind. About 5 times I have filled the black to the brim, left it overnight and then drove about 10 miles to the tourist centre that has a sewer dump and the valve still leaks. So at the very least I would be looking at new seals I would think.
I have just ordered the twist on Valterra valve, so thanks to those who advised it. I have campsites booked for every weekend, save one, from now unit mid august. I will be looking at the end of season service I am sure.

And thanks again for all the replies, and if I decide to try to tackle it in the one off weekend in June, I will update for all.

Evan
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:02 PM   #10
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Do a "Geo Method" cleaning of the tank. https://sites.google.com/site/cbruni/ This usually releases the solids stuck to sides of tank and maybe at the valve also. Then pour in a mixture of hot water and cooking oil. That will help loosen up the valve and maybe clear the leaking.
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:45 PM   #11
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I have the same issue on my 2017 Volante 310 BH. Leaking black tank valve.

I winterized knowing this and I just rinsed out the tank. I left it open on purpose last weekend and will replace this weekend. Hopefully it will be dry enough.

Lots of YouTube videos on this. I’ll post some picks if I remember to take them.
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Old 05-22-2018, 02:09 PM   #12
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sewer valve

Just cut the underbelly, change the valve and tape up the fabric with the tape the rv folks use. Not an easy job, but you dont have to drop all the underbelly fabric.
Mine has been travelling with a tape job for 5 years.
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Old 06-17-2018, 03:48 PM   #13
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Bought my sunset 210fk Thursday new at paul sherry in ohio.
Last and third stop on way home today, Sunday, and the black tank won't empty. Feels like the rod is disconnected from the valve.
This is ugly. Now what.
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp9170 View Post
Bought my sunset 210fk Thursday new at paul sherry in ohio.

Last and third stop on way home today, Sunday, and the black tank won't empty. Feels like the rod is disconnected from the valve.

This is ugly. Now what.


Sounds like a crappy situation.[emoji23]


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Old 06-17-2018, 08:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp9170 View Post
Bought my sunset 210fk Thursday new at paul sherry in ohio.
Last and third stop on way home today, Sunday, and the black tank won't empty. Feels like the rod is disconnected from the valve.
This is ugly. Now what.
You will either need to take it in to dealer or service center/mobile mechanic, or drop the coroplast underbelly and see if it is in fact disconnected. Then you may have a way of reattaching. I’ve never done this so I can’t give you any detail.
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Old 06-17-2018, 08:41 PM   #16
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Plan
Call local NC dealer for repair. Warranty.
Ordered Valterra twist on valve.
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