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Old 10-12-2014, 04:49 PM   #1
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Winterizing: Correctly Understand the Process?

I have a 2014 300BH. Finalizing plans to winterize for the first time. I think I have the process down But I want to make sure I understand correctly what valves to open/close in the back of the water heater. First do I have the valves labeled correctly? Assuming that, I know to winterize I'm going to open the now closed bypass valve. But is that all? Or do I need to close the valve that I believe controls water into the heater. Wouldn't you close that so you don't pump antifreeze into the water heater? This unit has a pre-attached siphon hose. I know I open that when I'm going to pump the antifreeze into the system.
See the attached pic.
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File Type: jpg Water Heater.jpg (613.7 KB, 45 views)
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Old 10-12-2014, 05:33 PM   #2
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You are correct and it appears you have labeled them correctly. Close the inlet and open the bypass. The check valve in the HW outlet (red Pex line) will prevent water flow into the tank.
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Old 10-12-2014, 06:35 PM   #3
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I was wondering about the hot water outlet. Good to know about the check valve. Thanks.
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:10 PM   #4
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I'd have to go out and check my 300BH when I get home, but I believe the one valve in the upper right hand corner that is not labeled is the valve to the fresh water holding tank. I'll check later, but if that is the fresh water valve, you definitely want that closed when your winterizing.
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Old 10-13-2014, 06:18 PM   #5
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OhioMark, I believe you are right. The very upper right valve on the blue line is the incoming fresh water. I agree, it would seem to make sense you'd want that valve off too. So to summarize, I should turn the water heater bypass valve to bypass, turn the water supply line to the water heater off, and then turn the incoming fresh water supply line valve off. Open the siphon valve ..pump in the antifreeze. Does this sound right to everyone interested?
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:02 PM   #6
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I don't think your valves are in the correct position for winterizing.
My valves all turn across, to shut off the line they are in---except the siphon line. That has to be turned with the line.

The way I see it, the valve on the blue line has to be turned to shut that line off or you will fill the water heater with anti freeze.
The valve on the siphon hose is shut off. That needs to be turned so it can suck anti freeze.
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lloyd View Post
I don't think your valves are in the correct position for winterizing.
My valves all turn across, to shut off the line they are in---except the siphon line. That has to be turned with the line.

The way I see it, the valve on the blue line has to be turned to shut that line off or you will fill the water heater with anti freeze.
The valve on the siphon hose is shut off. That needs to be turned so it can suck anti freeze.
They are in operate. He wanted to know if he had the correct sequence of valves to turn. And them labeled correctly.
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:13 PM   #8
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Correct, the valves as pictured are in their normal operating mode. Just wanted to make sure which valves to turn when I go to winterize which will likely be this weekend.
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:14 PM   #9
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They are in operate. He wanted to know if he had the correct sequence of valves to turn. And them labeled correctly.

The way I see it, the by pass valve is closed water supply valve to water heater is open, siphon valve is closed.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:21 PM   #10
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You are correct Lloyd. It's in normal operate mode. He wanted to know if he had the valves identified correctly and the correct ones to turn to put it in winterize mode. Please read the original post.
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Old 10-17-2014, 05:23 PM   #11
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How do you tell that a check valve exists?? Is it in the brass fitting or in the water heater itself on the hot side?? Thanks.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:03 PM   #12
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I have never pulled mine, but it is my understanding the brass fitting is the check valve.
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:38 AM   #13
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Your picture helped me out today during my winterizing. The only issue I ran into was because I blew the lines out first I had to get rid of the airlock before the pump would take in the antifreeze. Just opening the sink cold side until I saw pink coming through took care of that. Other than that it took less than 2 jugs and about 25 minutes to do the entire job my first time. The extra fluid I poured down the sinks to fill the traps up.
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Old 10-18-2014, 02:35 PM   #14
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Glad it helped. I'm going out to the trailer to do mine now.
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Old 10-18-2014, 08:44 PM   #15
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Uploading an updated picture to show the incoming fresh water supply valve to the pump and to show the hot water outlet has an anti-siphon valve
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File Type: jpg Water Heater.jpg (629.5 KB, 10 views)
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Old 10-19-2014, 10:18 AM   #16
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Looks good.

In the 40s here at night, so we're not long before the cold nights set in. I'm going to do mine today.
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