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Old 09-03-2014, 10:01 PM   #1
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Service Brake System Light

I had a brake line go out on my truck. I had it replaced but they were unable to reset the light. Said they see no code on computer? My brake light remains on solid and digital display still says "service brake system" and dings for several seconds on start up then dinging stops. Brakes feel good? Any ideas before I "brake" down and take to dealer?
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:11 AM   #2
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Try removing the battery cable for ten minutes. Both terminals
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:34 AM   #3
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Try removing the battery cable for ten minutes. Both terminals
I know where you are going on this Frank. Is ten minutes important or just a number to insure reset?
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:40 AM   #4
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Ten minutes is pretty much the industry standard, It insures that most of the memory codes have the proper time to discharge. That is one reason that you have to disconnect both terminals. I have seen where if that is not done there is some sort of weird backfeed and keeps it there. We use a 2003 Chrysler mini van, and the check engine light would not come off with the code machine. last week some one stole the battery out of it put and new one in and the check engine light is out. Go fiqure, automotive computers are just too complicated any more. The car Janet drives has 7 different computers in it that have to interface with each other. Need less to say I have an extended warranty on that car.
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:51 AM   #5
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Thanks Frank. Laura"s car does everything but wash dishes so we went extended warranty also.
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Old 09-04-2014, 10:48 AM   #6
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The dishwasher is behind the wheel.

Ducking and running.....
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:04 PM   #7
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The dishwasher is behind the wheel.

Ducking and running.....
Do not know that Cliff depends on who is driving
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:10 PM   #8
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Tim, is it the light red or yellow light....If it is the red brake light then they need to bleed the brake in order of the right rear,then left rear and then right front and finally the left front. Make sure all the air is out. Or could be the switch in the brake system is stuck to one side. Which brake line failed. If it was the front section then you need to bleed the rear, if the rear then need to bleed the front. Some time you have to release the bleeder slowly and watch the light, when it goes out stop the bleeding process. If it is the yellow then there is a problem with the ABS side, sensor (speed) but there should be a code. Hope this helps.....
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:02 PM   #9
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Thanks for the replies. Brakes were bled. Pedal feels good. Shop said code was gone but light would not change. Light is a steady red. I suggested disconnecting the battery but they did not want to do that. They said it may be mileage or time sensitive? I thought BS, but have driven it and has not changed. Only thing I can find on internet is it may mean ABS is not functioning with the chime signal it is giving. Not sure if they bled all lines or not? It was the drivers rear that went out.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:16 AM   #10
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Go with battery disconnect. Maybe when you get home from work, then hook up after dinner to be good. Check fluid level, too.

If light stays on, or comes back on, may be worth bleeding all again, or having it serviced.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:32 AM   #11
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Tim, if all else fails or doesn't correct the light issue, I would check the ABS system.
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Old 09-05-2014, 08:02 PM   #12
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Check the master cylinder . There is a switch inside it that gets stuck and will make the light come on. I haven't worked on any G.M. vehicles in a while but I know about Toyotas. I work on them every day for a living.
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Old 09-05-2014, 08:31 PM   #13
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Check the parking brake switch
Dont they both use the same. Light
Just my $.002
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Old 09-06-2014, 03:47 PM   #14
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After checking everything that I could I finally just disconnected battery and let it sit for couple hours. All warnings are gone. Not sure if it was the right thing to do but will drive it and if comes back on take it to a dealer.
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Old 09-06-2014, 10:21 PM   #15
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Red Brake Light is only for the fluid side of the system and (as stated) parking brake switch --could be stuck on (have seen them break the guild pin and rotate to the side). There is a switch on the portion valve side of the system that slides to the side on the side of the leaks, then turn the red brake light on....The age of it most likely it is stuck. I have seen tech had release the bleeder with somebody pressing really hard on the pedal trying to force the switch back to the other side..Disconnecting the battery wont do anything since this side if the system doesn't set codes (only the yellow ABS light will).
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Old 09-07-2014, 10:56 AM   #16
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Which line went ? I would almost bet $$$ it was the one running to the rear up on top the frame.

It is a known issue with GM pickups and rotting brake lines unless you live down south. We just replaced every line in the truck with stainless steel and and the flexible lines also. It is not a bad job to do and overall, the cost of stainless is not bad.

What is bad, is that we cannot bleed our brakes anymore if you get air in the ABS unit. (ie: front lines, lines to master cylinder). It takes a GM Tech2 tool to actuate the 6 valves in the ABS unit.

It took me over 2 quarts of fluid to get them (brakes) to the point I could drive it to the dealer, and then it took them another 2 quarts and their $2K to $3K tool to bleed the system. $160.00 later (for the bleeding), I have brakes that are better than when the truck was new.

Braided stainless flexible hoses do not expand like plain rubber ones. Now I don't have to worry about blowing a line with the trailer behind us, going through the mountains.

BTW, ours is an 04.5 and we lost the line that goes to the back. They rot out at the clips that hold them to the frame.

We bought ours SS lines from Fine Lines http://www.finelinesinc.com/ in Wadsworth, Oh and the flexible hoses from Summit Racing (Russell brand) in Tallmadge,Oh. www.summitracing.com
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Old 09-07-2014, 01:04 PM   #17
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Here is a link to a site which explains how to make your own pressurized brake bleeder. http://www.bmw-m.net/techproc/bleeder.htm. I made one and used it to flush the old fluid in my '02 TrailBlazer and my '08 Impala. It works well.
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Old 09-07-2014, 04:11 PM   #18
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Rear left/drivers side and yes it broke at the clip. I may take it in and have them all done. This one broke as I was fixing to hook up to camper! Made us a day late but don't want to think what could have happened.
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Old 09-07-2014, 05:47 PM   #19
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If only had the one replace/repair then you really need to have the rest of them done..Look up around the module and along the frame rail. They will be rusting bad also. My wife Tahoe line fail while parking almost hit the building. I check mine right after that and mine was getting just as bad. Had them replace since we tow with me truck. Don't want to be towing and have a line break when trying to stop. GM has a line kit with all the steel line preform for aprox $200.
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Old 09-07-2014, 06:26 PM   #20
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GM has a line kit with all the steel line preform for aprox $200.
Oh I already decided to do them all. One look under the truck while on the rack and I realized it would be a matter of time.

Any idea where to order?
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