12 volt Bath Lights quit working

jkreiger · 02-02-2015, 04:22 PM

Hello. My wife and I recently retired and purchased a 2007 Cruiser. We have been extremely happy with it. However, on our last three week trip, the bath lights and vent quit working after a week. I checked the fuse and it's ok. Lights are not burned out, wiring to the vent is connected. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be? Is there another fuse/breaker somewhere other then the main fuse/circuit breaker panel inside the trailer?

logicsrealm · 02-02-2015, 04:41 PM

If there is a wall switch, try swapping it out for one that is known to work. The switch may be corroded.

**mark5w** · 02-02-2015, 05:26 PM

Have your battery checked also. Without a good fully charged battery you will have those problems,

fhenn · 02-02-2015, 05:41 PM

Check your GFI's

**mark5w** · 02-02-2015, 05:53 PM

GFI's are for 120 volts

Stan · 02-02-2015, 06:27 PM

Probably a loose connection because it is odd they both quit at the same time. If you are sure the fuses are good (your not confusing fuses and circuit breakers?) then its time to check for 12 volts at the light switch and at the fan connection wire next to the fan motor. What model RV do you have? If your 2007 is like my 2007 then you have lights over the vanity and also on the ceiling. Are ANY of these lights working?

**Lloyd** · 02-02-2015, 07:03 PM

I agree with Stan.
You might also want to check to make sure the ground is OK.
That is a notorious problem.

concreteman · 02-02-2015, 07:20 PM

I just had this problem before I traded my RV. It turned out to be the switch that runs the fan in the ceiling vent. Look at all the conections when you change the switch. Mine didnt look to good.My lights started to flicker then went out. I have learned over time that wall switches, roof vent covers, extra sewer hose, short propane hose that goes from tank to regulator,bulbs,and fuses are things to put in a box and keep in your storage compartment.

jkreiger · 02-03-2015, 08:11 PM

Thank you all for the responses. Today, I checked the switches - all good but no power. The batteries were both fully charged. The fuse was good - I switched it with the rear circuit and the rear circuit worked but the bath still did not.

I think I have it narrowed down to either a bad ground or the converter. I'm thinking the converter because (let me know if I am wrong) when pull the fuse for the bath, the light indicating on OPEN lights up. Wouldn't that light up if the ground was bad?

jkreiger · 02-03-2015, 08:12 PM

Stan - yes, we have the same set up. None of the lights you mentioned are working...

Stan · 02-04-2015, 08:50 AM

JK...I would not jump to the converter being bad just yet. The red light on the converter lights whenever there is an "open" on the fuse or the fuse is pulled out. If the switch doesn't have power I would still look for a loose connection. Not knowing how CR ran the wires is an issue. I would start at the converter and make sure you have 12v at the fuse "output" side screw. Then you need to follow that wire somehow. Keep in mind it may not go directly to the switch. They may have made the joint behind the vanity light and THEN run a wire to the switch. With CR there is no way to know for sure. I found a wire splice IN the wall to next to the water heater that was loose. Luckily there was a small hole where I could see the wire nuts and found the bad connection. Following the 12v trail will be the hard part. You will need a voltmeter. If you think it is a bad ground, that is easy enough to check - one voltmeter lead to the 12v hot wire and ground the other lead to a known good metal ground . If you have 12v but not when you connect the lead to the ground wire then you probably have a bad ground.

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