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Old 09-29-2013, 09:38 PM   #1
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Prior to leaving for a month long trip to the Rockies and points south I used EZ Lube to make certain my bearings were adequately greased. All along the way I would check bearing temps with a laser temp gun and all was well. While headed across New Mexico a truck driver honked at us and pointed to our wheels. We stopped on the shoulder and due to limited space my DW got out and looked around and said all is well. I felt unsure and hopped out and check temps and on the 4th wheel it was running 150 degrees hotter than normal. Good fortune had us within 1 mile of an exit and the gas station attendant knew a local mechanic who could help us. Bottom line as we pulled into his drive after removing the hot wheel from the rig the hub fell off. Upon inspecting the ruined bearings, hub, brakes etc we found no sign of a cotter pin to hold the crown nut in place so it had loosened to the point of falling off the spindle. After 200 miles to get replacement parts and $500.00 later we were back on road. BOTTOM LINE-Don't neglect a regular inspection of your bearings and the parts needed to keep them where they belong and if you ever see someone traveling and notice something amiss be sure to let them know as our guardian angel did. This incident could have been a disaster.
Safe travels, Bruce
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:39 PM   #2
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We had a brake failure on one wheel on our 2013 335ss. While it was in for repairs the mechanic inspected all four wheel and discovered two leaking wheel bearing seals. This was after only two trips on the new rig. I would recommend checking all wheels on your, rigs no matter how new, the quality control issue now has become a safety issue,
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:37 PM   #3
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Close one.

I have the EZ lube hubs but don't use them - just pull the bearings/brakes every spring and perform an inspection/cleaning, re-grease. Our unit is parked outside and we get allot of snow. I put wheel covers on the tires but still have allot of rust on the bottom of the drums in the inside - another reason I pull the wheels/drums every spring prior to using the RV. I install new cotter pins when re-assembling the hub.



Edited by: NorskeNY
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:31 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorskeNY

Close one.

I have the EZ lube hubs but don't use them - just pull the bearings/brakes every spring and perform an inspection/cleaning, re-grease. Our unit is parked outside and we get allot of snow. I put wheel covers on the tires but still have allot of rust on the bottom of the drums in the inside - another reason I pull the wheels/drums every spring prior to using the RV. I install new cotter pins when re-assembling the hub.


Good maintenance plan. If you are unable to do it yourself it is well worth a a couple of hundred dollars to do it on a yearly basis.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:32 AM   #5
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Have to do this during winter this year - while putting smaller wheels onto fit the trailer in forwinter storage, I noticed that one of the rear wheels has what sounds like a dry bearing when you rotate the tire - time to pull off the hub and do a complete check already. Only about 5,500 miles by me on this unit and were lubed (EZ lube)before going on holidays this summer and I didn't like what I heard when I spun the wheel yesterday.
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:11 AM   #6
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might be the brakes that need adjusting or debris in that brake drum.
And just a question ..why not just leave the small wheels on and save some work? Block the trailer up a bit if you want to got the weight off the little wheels...just a thought
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:51 AM   #7
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I always take some weight off my tires and springs when in storage.
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:25 AM   #8
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EZ lube hubs do not have a cotter pin to retain the king nut. The axle is "keyed" and there is a washer that goes on the axle before the king nut. The washer has two tabs that bend down to retain the king nut from turning.

I get my bearings repacked every year. I have over 60,000 miles on my Cruiser.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harley
might be the brakes that need adjusting or debris in that brake drum.
And just a question ..why not just leave the small wheels on and save some work? Block the trailer up a bit if you want to got the weight off the little wheels...just a thought
It's not the brakes. I've seen enough bearings go on the farm to know this sound - very different in nature.

I don't like blocking all of the trailer axles - long term I would need to take all weight off if the wheels and tires. I actually prefer the weight left on the E rated tires and for me, removing and replacing the wheels is a 30 minute job total with an impact wrench and hydraulic jack. Outside the shop I use a 12 ton hydraulic, in the shop I use a floor jack. If I get ambitious in one or two years I will just put in a 13' door.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:15 PM   #10
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Hi Rick,

Our EZ Lube axles are not keyed with the tab washer to secure the crown nut. When repairing the failed bearing axle I had the mechanic check the other three hubs and they all had cotter pins. I called Lippert today and they gave me the spec on the cotter pin to use. It seems as though they may make changes during the production cycle so there is no hard and fast rule for a given model trailer. I still shudder to think of a family on their vacation having my 16" tire and rim coming into their windshield at 65 MPH. We only wish we could face to face thank the trucker who brought this to our attention. GOD bless him.

Bruce
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:33 PM   #11
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Guess they made another design change - key or tab washer keeps the nut from rotating.

This is from our manual:
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For adjusting bearings or replacement of removed hub, follow
procedures below:

1. Place hub, bearing, washers and castle nut back on axle
spindle in the reverse order from which they were removed. Castle nut should be
torqued to 50 ft.-lb. Hub will rotate during this process.

2. Loosen castle nut to back off the torque.

3. Tighten castle nut finger tight until snug.

4. Insert cotter pin (or locking tang if equipped with Super
Lube). If cotter pin or tang does not line up with hole, back castle nut up
slightly until pin or tang can be inserted.

5. Bend cotter pin over to lock nut in place (or locking
tang in the case of Super Lube). Nut should be free to move with only the
cotter pin keeping it in place.

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Old 09-30-2013, 01:12 PM   #12
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Interesting. Don't know how they do that with the grease fitting going into the center of the axle.
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:27 PM   #13
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Rick, The hole is not directly thru the center of the axle. It is off center allowing for the channel for the grease to flow for EZ Lube. The mechanic actually didn't see the cotter pin hole at first due to its unusual location. I don't understand why they didn't key the spindle to allow use of tang washer.

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Old 10-01-2013, 09:22 PM   #14
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I have a 2013 CFL28 Cruiser Aire. Getting ready to repack my bearings, they are definitely due with about 12k on them. I have hit the Zerk fittings a few times with a couple of squirts on the way. I had to get a axle replaced and the factory tech just recommended repacking every 12k. He was concerned with grease squeezing past the rear seal into the brakes. Not like greasing a boat trailer bearing to keep the salt water out of the hub.



My question is how is the best way to jack up the wheel to get it off. I thought of using the axle area where the shackles are, don't want to risk bending an axle. Doesen't seem the strongest metal under there. Lippert site I believe recommends lifting by the frame.



Just curious what has worked for you guys. Thanks
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:00 AM   #15
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I lift the wheel by placing the jack under the shackle area - I put a piece of 2X6 on top and bottom of the jack to give each point more surface area for jacking.

Most trailer manuf. recommend placing the jack under the frame. All will tell you not to place the jack under the axle - this will bend the axle.

I purchased one of these and will try it next spring - I'll have to hitch up the trailer to use it. I don't mind jacking up the trailer. Purchased it more for changing a tire on the road.






Edited by: NorskeNY
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:11 AM   #16
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Bob I guess that means you are tucked away for the winter,yes?
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Old 10-02-2013, 01:43 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwit

I always take some weight off my tires and springs when in storage.
No yet - camping this weekend. Need some warranty work done and may still get out in November (PA or MD)
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:07 AM   #18
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I prefer to have my 5th wheel hitched anytime I have to jack the trailer to remove a tire or work on the bearings. Jacking with the trailer on the landing gear puts side stress on the landing gear and I am concerned the gear may be damaged or even fail.

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Old 10-02-2013, 03:31 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcflyer
I prefer to have my 5th wheel hitched anytime I have to jack the trailer to remove a tire or work on the bearings. Jacking with the trailer on the landing gear puts side stress on the landing gear and I am concerned the gear may be damaged or even fail.
Probably not a bad idea.
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Old 10-05-2013, 12:48 AM   #20
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Would it be possible to jack thecamper up enough to get the wheels off with a floor jack, using the connector between the two suspensions leafs. I have a older 12foot utility trailer that definitely made with heavier steel, no problem lifting from any point of the suspension. Probably the safest way is using the frame directly or under the axle shackles.
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