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Old 08-08-2016, 07:08 PM   #1
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Air Conditioner & Refrigerator tripping breaker

I have a 2012 Crossroads Zinger which I have been extremely pleased with. I have a couple of problems. 1. the air conditioner and refrigerator trips the breaker at the pole. The AC never seems to ever cut off. When it does, it is literally only for a few seconds-- then it comes right back on.
2. This weekend, I had to run the refrigerator on gas to stop the breaker from tripping. But even by doing that, the AC ran constantly.

I would appreciate any help..
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Old 08-08-2016, 08:14 PM   #2
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You say it is the A/C and fridge but did you also have the water heater on electric? What about other 120v use? Could you be drawing too much current for the possibly weak breaker on the pole?
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Old 08-08-2016, 08:45 PM   #3
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Did you try connecting to a different outlet?
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:13 AM   #4
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I have had an ems since the first 'expensive' rv I bought...

have stayed in more than one rv park where the maintenance man said "No problem" with the service, but my EMS said PROBLEM !!!

would rather spend a few dollars on an ems than on a rewire of the fried components in our rv
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...s%2Ck%3Arv+ems
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:39 AM   #5
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Is the AC keeping inside temp at a comfortable level? If not, you need to give it some help, shades over the windows, etc. Do a search for AC leaks, plenty of info about air leaks at the AC unit and at the vents. Where is the thermostat located, heat from the refer or sunlight can throw it off and cause quick restarts. Finally, you need to check voltage at the AC unit with it running, low voltage will cause it to draw too much power and trip a breaker. Bad connections will drop the voltage and the plug at the pole is a real possibility. Also breaker will trip at a lower current as they age or get too hot, a small fan blowing at the breaker may help
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:37 PM   #6
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Most air conditioners have about a 4-5 minute delay to allow pressure to equalize before restarting. Restarting without this delay will result in high current draw. I know nothing about the Zinger line, but I am surprised the AC and fridge is on the same breaker.
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Old 08-09-2016, 03:36 PM   #7
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I know nothing about the Zinger line, but I am surprised the AC and fridge is on the same breaker.
OP stated the breaker that tripped was at the pole, not in the trailer.
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Old 08-09-2016, 03:49 PM   #8
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OP stated the breaker that tripped was at the pole, not in the trailer.


Duh.... I missed that! I saw a Zinger when I ran & picked up adult beverages today. I'm thinking 30 amp service. What I said still applies to the AC. Like others said, maybe a bad breaker. Also, ambient temperature will affect them. My DW works part time in our park office. Owners were gone for a week, we changed out two bad breakers in one day.


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Old 08-09-2016, 05:42 PM   #9
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I plug into the 50 amp when its available to avoid stressing the 30 amp breaker. That adapter is handy to have.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55185-P...amp+rv+adapter
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:51 PM   #10
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Some campgrounds are lower voltage. I had two on my recent 31 day trip that I had to turn off my hard wired surge protector because of voltage drops on one leg of the 50 amp outlet. Don't like turning it off but it wasn't spikes but low voltage and my Progressive kept kicking it out. Different problem for you. With what you're drawing it sounds like the campground doesn't have full 30-amp service because your AC, fridge and hot water heater will not flip a true 30-amp breaker unless you try to make toast or plug in a hair dryer.
Sounds like the campground is fudging their 30 amp service or it's a bad breaker at the pole.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:43 AM   #11
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Thanks for all the replies. Let me make things a little clearer. When I am at the campground, I try to run everything off the campground provided electric. When I am plugged in to the campground pedestal and everything in the camper is on (ac, refrig,wtr htr) the 30 amp breaker on the campground pedestal will sometimes trip. During our last outing, I remedied the problem by running the refrigerator on gas.

As for the a/c running constantly and kicking off only for a few seconds, I am going to check for air loss around vents and other places. BTW, the thermostat is located on the wall directly across from the entrance door (approx 3' away). I'm thinking that the window in the entrance door may be playing a role in the problem.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:49 AM   #12
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Because I have no knowledge with electrical I need to ask, will using the 30 amp to 50 amp adapter cause any problems (safety, damage to camper).
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:45 AM   #13
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There is no advantage using a 50 amp adaptor, the extra resistance due to one more set of contacts offsets anything else. Also, if the thermostat is on a wall that contains the refer, there is almost no insulation in that wall and heat from the back of the refer will mess up the stat. I had to pull my refer and install rigid foam insulation to fix the issue.
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Old 08-11-2016, 09:35 AM   #14
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There is no advantage using a 50 amp adaptor, the extra resistance due to one more set of contacts offsets anything else. Also, if the thermostat is on a wall that contains the refer, there is almost no insulation in that wall and heat from the back of the refer will mess up the stat. I had to pull my refer and install rigid foam insulation to fix the issue.
I'm not sure I understand. Are you saying the adapter negates a 20 amp difference in circuit capacity?
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Old 08-11-2016, 10:46 AM   #15
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I really don't understand your post. One thing for sure, using the 50-30 amp adapter will eliminate tripping the 30 amp breaker at the pole.


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Old 08-11-2016, 11:16 AM   #16
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I think what Larry is saying, is using an adapter is not going to change what your trailer/main plug will be drawing for amps.

If you plug a 50 amp adapter into your 30 amp cord, you are still only going to be drawing 30 amps max. Only one leg on the 50 amp adapter will be taking electric from the pedestal.
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Old 08-11-2016, 11:21 AM   #17
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I think what Larry is saying, is using an adapter is not going to change what your trailer/main plug will be drawing for amps.

If you plug a 50 amp adapter into your 30 amp cord, you are still only going to be drawing 30 amps max. Only one leg on the 50 amp adapter will be taking electric from the pedestal.

Ah, I get it now.
BUt the adapter would still be useful in this case for OP.
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:06 PM   #18
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Ah, I get it now.
BUt the adapter would still be useful in this case for OP.
The adaptor doesn't get him more power, still just 30 amps. Then the extra resistance of one more pair of contacts causes more voltage drop to the trailer which causes the current to increase. The adaptor only helps if the 30 amp breaker is weak due to age, in which case it needs to be replaced.
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:07 PM   #19
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Smile

Thanks for the info. I checked the a/c ductwork for leaks and found several pilot holes as well as subpar workmanship in taping the areas where the vents are installed. Also, I found some unsealed places in the ac / heat unit. Took care of those this morning. I believe this will help the ac problem.
I had to laugh when I read your response Dayle1 regarding the wall behind the refrigerator not being insulated too well. Our camper refrigerator shares a common wall with the pantry. Every time the wife got the bread out to make a sandwich the bread was already toasted from the heat. I just finished last weekend removing the refrigerator and putting rigid foam insulation and taping the joints to fix that problem. As far as the breaker tripping, I ordered a 30amp to 50amp adapter. Next trip, I will use it and see if it helps. Thanks again to all who responded.
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Old 08-11-2016, 03:49 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayle1 View Post
The adaptor doesn't get him more power, still just 30 amps. Then the extra resistance of one more pair of contacts causes more voltage drop to the trailer which causes the current to increase. The adaptor only helps if the 30 amp breaker is weak due to age, in which case it needs to be replaced.
There will be 50 amps available to the distribution panel in the RV. If the RV is actually overloading the breaker on the pole (pulling in excess of 30 amps), the breaker in the RV should trip.

As far as the AC short cycling, that is an issue I would address. Short cycling will shorten compressor life. Our units continually cycle, but only after the time delay built in the unit. I don't even like that, but that is from the insulation value in RV's.
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