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Old 02-11-2014, 09:40 AM   #1
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Black tank valve issue

The valve on our black tank is a booger bear to open and close. I'm a pretty good sized guy, and it is all I can do to operate it. My service man tells me if he installs a new one, it will be the same. The grey and galley tank valves operate fine. Haven't looked at the valves yet, but I suppose the black is 3" and the other 2 are 1 1/2". I suppose that is the reason for the problem.

He tells me there are other brand cable operated valves that operate much easier than the ones CR uses.

So, what is my solution? My wife could never operate the current valve.
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Old 02-11-2014, 11:47 AM   #2
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I've been toying with the idea of switching to an electric valve. One of the things I read, stated that side operating valves build up too much 'stuff' behind the blade and that is part of the problem, and cable valves must be mounted sideways in order to route the cable. An electric valve can be mounted vertically and therefore should work better.

Either electric or cable can fail. If they fail closed, then repairs will be a real mess and required immediately. If they fail open, then a secondary twist-on valve becomes a life saver and I have one for that reason.

Back to the cable problem, I removed the T-handle and slipped some clear plastic tubing over the cable end and poured light machine oil into the end. Worked great and oil dripped out the other end by the actual valve. It did make the cable work better, but only lasted for a short time, then back to being very difficult to operate.

If there is another cable valve brand that is supposed to work better, I'd certainly like to know the name and then hear about some satisfied owners.
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:53 AM   #3
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Same issue on my 2011 Seville. I bought a valve at CW that mounts to the outlet where you hook your sewer hose. I use it for the numerous open/close cycles I need to go thru when flushing the black tank.
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Old 02-12-2014, 06:44 PM   #4
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On my 305sk I had many issues when new. My dealer suggested that I do away with the cable all together. They drilled a hole in the frame and ran a rod straight out thru the frame right under the baggage door. Installed a T-handle on the end. I havent had an issue since. Both grey water tanks still have cables. But staying in RV parks most of the time I havent had issues with those.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:01 PM   #5
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I had same problem on Kingston, I was able to do a good flush before trying to repair and my black valve is up front so I had minimum underbelly to undo. I had purchased a repair kit which is only gaskets and screws. After changing them they appeared flimsy and had rolled after getting it back together. Looked at old ones and they were fine not out of round or folded I put Vaseline on them and they were real smooth. Now we'll see how long it last. I gaskets get sticky, it would be the same if they were electric?
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Old 02-13-2014, 07:17 AM   #6
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Quote:
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On my 305sk I had many issues when new. My dealer suggested that I do away with the cable all together. They drilled a hole in the frame and ran a rod straight out thru the frame right under the baggage door. Installed a T-handle on the end. I havent had an issue since. Both grey water tanks still have cables. But staying in RV parks most of the time I havent had issues with those.
I've considered that as another option. But mine is located on the curb side and the T handle would probably end up under the steps, so not ideal in my case. Another option for me is to cut the 3" pipe where it exits the underbelly and install a permanent exterior valve just before the tee.
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Old 02-13-2014, 02:06 PM   #7
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I have the same sticky valve problem. Will be following this closely.
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Old 02-13-2014, 07:47 PM   #8
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Dayle,

That sounds like a good fix, If it wasnt under the steps. Mine was stuck closed so I had to go in for the fix.
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:09 AM   #9
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I was reading mineral oil works. Might give it a try.

Gary
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:51 AM   #10
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Having same problem with my Kingston 35 SB. Compounded with the fact that they are mounted sideways in a small compartment with no room for leverage. This is on the laundry list of items I gave the dealer when I took it in last week. Waiting to see when they come up with for a solution.
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Old 02-15-2014, 02:49 PM   #11
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Had the same problem on 08 Cruiser back when new... Not sure what they did, but it was fixed under warranty... From what I can see the greased the cable.
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Old 02-15-2014, 05:14 PM   #12
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Thanks for the ideas. I want to look at the valve. Think it might be where I could drill the back case, install a fitting, and lub the knife when it is pulled back. Just fill the back cavity with silicone lube. We'll see.
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Old 02-15-2014, 07:14 PM   #13
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My results with the mineral oil are mixed. Still hard to pull out. But seems easier too push in. This is after a about 7 pulls and pushes. Was wondering maybe need too secure the cable to the floor in a couple places so it doesn't flex so much.
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:15 PM   #14
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black tank valve

The valve on our 2010 Kingston has always worked pretty stiff. This winter in Tx the cable pulled out of the valve. The repair guy was able to get it open and ordered a new valve. The old valve had scored up pretty bad for some reason. We even used the old cable and its works better than it ever did. I guess I would say its probable not the cable but in the valve blade itself. Good Luck. Larry
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Old 02-16-2014, 04:33 PM   #15
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My results with the mineral oil are mixed. Still hard to pull out. But seems easier too push in. This is after a about 7 pulls and pushes. Was wondering maybe need too secure the cable to the floor in a couple places so it doesn't flex so much.
Are you dumping mineral oil in the tank? It took all my 240 lbs to get it closed today.
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Old 02-16-2014, 04:57 PM   #16
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Maintain your black water tank by adding water softener through the toilet every third fill. The softener will keep solid matter from sticking to the inside of the tank and the drain plumbing.


This may help even when stuck.
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:53 PM   #17
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I have tried the water softener..not much help. Yes I dumped in 8 oz. Then 3 gallons of hot water... didn't have a chance to work on it today. Pretty windy here.. then BBQ ribs & suds...
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:54 AM   #18
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Just wondering about the mineral oil. I know petroleum based products swell rubber. Will the mineral oil do so? Potential problems down the road if it does. I'm supposing the valve has rubber seals. I'm thinking I'm gonna call CR and see if they will send me a new valve. That will allow me to eyeball how it is constructed before I change it out.
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:08 PM   #19
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Just wondering about the mineral oil. I know petroleum based products swell rubber. Will the mineral oil do so? Potential problems down the road if it does. I'm supposing the valve has rubber seals. I'm thinking I'm gonna call CR and see if they will send me a new valve. That will allow me to eyeball how it is constructed before I change it out.
The valves do have rubber seals and mineral oil is in fact petroleum based, one of the lighter products of the refining process.
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:34 PM   #20
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I believe the gaskets are not made of rubber. They are made of a product called Santoprene, a Thermoplastic Vulcanizate. It is resistant to most chemicals and I'm sure it does not react to mineral oil.
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