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Old 05-17-2012, 07:17 AM   #1
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This topic is about as bad as tires.
Need some input on the subject. On our resent trip to TX. my controller started acting up. I noticed it most when applying lite pressure on the brake pedal and hitting bumps, at least one of the wheels would apparently lock up. I could hear it squeal when the bumps would jar it.
Question, Is my old controller giving up the ghost, over do I have another problem.
I've been thinking about upgrading for awhile just haven't gotten around to it. This has got me on the subject again
Which controller works the best for you guys?




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Old 05-17-2012, 08:52 AM   #2
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It

would help if we knew which Hayes Brake controller you have. They have

made many different models. It sounds like it is a pendulum type and they have

no damping. I use a Prodigy P3 and do not recall any problems like you

describe.</span>
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:32 AM   #3
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Mine original one was a old one. When it died it would be "on" full voltage or "off" No in between, No mercy.. I ditched it and went with the P3 "prodigy p3" I could not believe the difference. So smooth with brakes coming on and easy to use



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Old 05-17-2012, 10:35 AM   #4
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My original brake controller was a time delay draw tite. Ditched that one quickly for the prodigy P3. Loved it, only sold it because the new TV has an integrated brake controller. The P3 had good diagnostics, worked well with the truck and trailer, easy to set up, very easy install (if you get the TV brand specific wiring harness), and best of all tekonsha was great to deal with when my unit malfunctioned. They sent me a new one and a prepaid envelope for the old one immediately no questions asked.
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcflyer
It

would help if we knew which Hayes Brake controller you have. They have

made many different models.</span>
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Old 05-17-2012, 03:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Farmer

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcflyer
It

would help if we knew which Hayes Brake controller you have. They have

made many different models.</span>
#81745----- ENERGIZE XPC
I did a search on your controller. Could not find much in the way or reviewer comments. You do have a proportional, acceleromter type of brake controller. I suspect from your comments your controller may have gone south. Most accelerometer types have some type of electronic damping to sudden impacts such as bumps etc.</span>Check your mounting and make sure it is solid. If the controller can move in its mount you can have the problems you describe. If you replace I recommend the P3 and the P2 as a second choice. I like the current meter on the P3.</span>
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:46 PM   #7
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Ditto on the P3 Prodogy, I've had many different controllers over 30 plus years but by far the P3 is the best and most stable and reliableand I never have any jerking problems or tires squeeling etc.... the boost features are great as you can set them bythe speeds on the type of roads you drive on.

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Old 05-18-2012, 12:13 AM   #8
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Not to hijack Old Farmer's thread but can anyone give advice on correctly adjusting my P3? Apparently I didn't have mine adjusted correctly as I warped the front rotors on my TV going down a very long steep hill.
I thought I had them set correctly, in fact they seem a little "grabby" when going really slow.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyB
Not to hijack Old Farmer's thread but can anyone give advice on correctly adjusting my P3? Apparently I didn't have mine adjusted correctly as I warped the front rotors on my TV going down a very long steep hill.
I thought I had them set correctly, in fact they seem a little "grabby" when going really slow.
If you are talking about the trailer brakes being grabby then I suspect they have been grease soaked. Once brake shoes have grease on them they are no good. They will at first be grabby but as they heat up from a heavy braking action they will become slippery and have no braking action. You can not clean the grease off of the brake shoes. They have to be replaced.
A very common cause is blown grease seals from EZ lube systems.

As for properly setting the P3 you need the brakes adjusted correctly then follow the instructions in the P3 manual. Make sure you have no boost when making the setting adjustments.

Warped rotors can be caused by improper braking procedure. One thing very important is do not stop at the bottom of a hill. Continue to drive until the rotors have had a chance to cool. Stopping does not allow the rotor to cool evenly. The area under the pads can not cool thus the rotor will warp.
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Old 05-18-2012, 05:09 AM   #10
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Nobody mentioned this but, if it is only one wheel grabbing, I would not suspect the controller.
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