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Old 06-02-2015, 08:04 PM   #1
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Converter Location

Hi All

I have a 2011 ZT-260-BL Zinger and i'm trying to find out where the converter is located.


My problem is that the converter is over-charging my battery and has boiled it, so i want to do some testing on the converter.......just need to find out where it is located.

Thxs.
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:12 PM   #2
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It's usually a brown panel surface mounted on a vertical surface. Lots of little holes. Push on the top, and it should spring open. You'll see circuit breakers (your 120 vac circuits) on one side, auto-type fuses (12V circuits) on the other. You will see a fan. Will probably be on a non-sliding wall on the driver's side, near the point where shore power comes in.
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:44 PM   #3
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Okay so I found it....thx-u


So my questions is this,

I had it plugged into 120V for 2 days.....I noticed my battery making a little noise so I put my ear to it and it sounded like it was just bubbling like a soda can.......The next day there was water in the bottom of the battery tray and now my battery isn't holding a charge.
So is my converter done? I have checked the 40amp fuses and they look fine.....how do I test my converter and prove that its not self-regulating to keep my battery charged.
I know I need a new battery but I want to confirm the operation of my converter before a wreck a new battery.

thxs for your help to this........
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Old 06-02-2015, 08:56 PM   #4
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I'll defer to others for the specifics. A converter will typically put out three levels of voltage, for high, low, and trickle. You are correct, in that a charged battery should cause the converter to automatically step down as the battery is charged. We have for two years now just kept our camper plugged in 24/7, and let the converter take care of the battery.
A new battery, properly connected (be careful, black isn't always negative), will initially draw the highest voltage. Then it should step down quickly if it is fully charged. If your battery starts bubbling soon after hook up, or after time to charge up, then the converter is not stepping down. It should never get to that point.
Other members here: What voltages should Brett see initially, and on down to trickle?
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:18 PM   #5
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I just found the three voltages: 14.4VDC "bulk,", 13.6 VDC "absorption", and 13.2 "float," modes. To us laymen, we would call that high, low, and trickle.
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:46 PM   #6
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Thx u again Marty!

Guess I'll go purchase a new battery here and monitor it for the day and see how the converter reacts.
Get info...thxs for sharing!

Side note: If my converter is done......should I just replace with an OEM unit or is there a better converter to go with.
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:54 PM   #7
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Glad to help. You can also monitor the state of charge of the battery with one of those little "floating balls" bulb/glass tools they have where they sell batteries. Typically under $5.
As to replacement, I would suggest OEM as a minimum, staying at, or going slightly above, amperage capacity. From my internet surfing, that's how they're rated. Unless you have some MAJOR modification in mind, say multiple batteries, inverters, solar panels and the ultimate boondocking setup. Good luck!
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Old 06-03-2015, 06:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett2011 View Post
Thx u again Marty!

Guess I'll go purchase a new battery here and monitor it for the day and see how the converter reacts.
Get info...thxs for sharing!

Side note: If my converter is done......should I just replace with an OEM unit or is there a better converter to go with.
In your case the easiest and cheapest solution is to just replace the converter board inside the power distribution box. Cost less than $200. No need to replace the entire box. To switch to a different brand or model would probably mean disconnection 100% of the wires (both 120 VAC and 12 VDC), ripping out the distribution box, then modifying the cabinet to accept a different sized unit and getting everything wired back correctly. It might be a different story if you had a stand-alone converter, then just 5 wires and a few screws.
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:47 AM   #9
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Larry is right , we just changed ours out. Look for number on inside of panel,like wf55 or whatever. Simple disconnect of 120 wire and then 12v wires and replace circuit board only. You can check voltage in and voltage out, should be about 120 volts ac in and 12 v dc out...
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:50 AM   #10
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Remember to check water level in battery and fill to proper level often every couple months or so.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:33 AM   #11
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If you decide to order and replace the board yourself , this place has the best price I found when I thought I might need one.
WFCO WF8955MBA WF-8955MBA 55 Amp RV Trailer Power Center Main Board Assembly Camper Trailer RV
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