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Old 05-06-2017, 07:58 PM   #1
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Design flaw

Just bought a sunset trail 330bh, camping in it now as we speak, had to cut heat on last night and thermostat is located right over heat vent, it's literally blowing right into it so when hear comes on the thermostat goes to climbing fast and it will not run over a couple of minutes thermostat jumps 10 degrees and heat cuts off, rest of camper still cool, any one else run into this? My other issue is if u pull the camper in the rain the outdoor kitchen gets wet?
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Old 05-06-2017, 08:36 PM   #2
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I have a late 2013 25rb with thermo on wall to right of bath door . Early 2013's had thermo on left of door right above heat register. And had same problem you are having til they switched to my style ,away from register. Funny that they made that model for a few years before changing locations of thermo. Must not been smart enough to figure how to solve until some new person noticed.
Have to wonder why that type of thing is still happening,
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Old 05-07-2017, 03:36 PM   #3
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Can you block that register? Someone must have designed that at 4:59 on a Friday. Lol Sorry not funny.
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Old 05-07-2017, 05:43 PM   #4
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Try a plastic magnetic deflector on the register for a temporary fix.
Does the register have a adjustable flap in it?
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Old 05-07-2017, 07:14 PM   #5
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Replace the vent with one that has a built in damper. All residential vents sold in HD or Lowes will have dampers. Partially close off the vent below the thermostat, less heat there means the furnace will run longer and heat the rest of the camper.

On mine the thermostat was mounted on the side of the refrigerator cabinet and open to outside temps thru the exterior vents. So the thermostat was always wrong, summer or winter, even morning vs night. I had to remove the refrigerator and add rigid foam insulation so the thermostat was not affected by outside temps.
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Old 05-07-2017, 09:06 PM   #6
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Your only fix is the clear plastic deflector to keep heat over floor vs. Up to thermo.
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Old 05-08-2017, 04:07 AM   #7
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Crossroads has 2 major design flaws, engineering and workmanship. I find something wrong with my unit every year connected with one of those. I'm getting tired of it too!
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markandkim View Post
Crossroads has 2 major design flaws, engineering and workmanship. I find something wrong with my unit every year connected with one of those. I'm getting tired of it too!
I'm starting to feel the same way, problem with closing off vent is there is only 3 in the entire 33ft camper, plastic deflector won't work cause vent is in front of 2 cabinet doors that has to open, no what's gonna happen is dealer is gonna move thermostat
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Old 05-08-2017, 12:15 PM   #9
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I'm starting to feel the same way, problem with closing off vent is there is only 3 in the entire 33ft camper, plastic deflector won't work cause vent is in front of 2 cabinet doors that has to open, no what's gonna happen is dealer is gonna move thermostat
Again replace the vent with same size house vent with built in damper. No additional height.
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Old 05-08-2017, 04:35 PM   #10
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You dont want a damper in the vent , you want heat to come out of it. Make them move the thermo to where it should have been in the first place.
Assembler should have realized that heat will turn off furnace when he was installing and should have stopped and told management what the problem was...oh ,sorry i was thinking of a realistic approach.
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Old 05-08-2017, 05:50 PM   #11
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You dont want a damper in the vent , you want heat to come out of it.
Dampers do not shut off 100% of the air flow and they are used all the time to balance heat flow. And that is in homes. In RVs the problem is worse because they are poorly insulated and have more air leakage per square foot than a house. The thermostat is generally near the center of the camper and since none of the vents have dampers there is too little air flow at the front and back of the camper where heat loss is the worst. Also, air temp at those furthest vents is lower due to minimal duct insulation. With more heat being delivered and retained near the thermostat, there can be a problem with furnace short cycling even if the closest vent is not directly under the thermostat. So, even if the thermostat is moved a few feet away from the vent, there can still be a balance problem.

So, the cheapest and easiest thing to try first is a damper vent. It may be sufficient for the OP or maybe not. That is my $0.02.
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Old 05-08-2017, 08:29 PM   #12
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We had exact same issue, furnace would cycle on & off, leaving rest of trailer cold. What I did is removed register from floor, then put duct tape on the inside of register covering 1/2 of vent blowing towards thermostat. Have had no issue since. (I believe register is divided into 2 sections, each side of the register fins directing heat to opposite sides, thus uncovered portion blows heated air away from thermostat now). I agree, thermostat should never have been placed there.

Other issue we have with ours is they did not put a heat register in bathroom.....but thankfully we don't do too much camping in colder months.....but again, another design flaw!
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Old 05-09-2017, 10:38 AM   #13
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Heat

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Originally Posted by Tonemeister View Post
We had exact same issue, furnace would cycle on & off, leaving rest of trailer cold. What I did is removed register from floor, then put duct tape on the inside of register covering 1/2 of vent blowing towards thermostat. Have had no issue since. (I believe register is divided into 2 sections, each side of the register fins directing heat to opposite sides, thus uncovered portion blows heated air away from thermostat now). I agree, thermostat should never have been placed there.

Other issue we have with ours is they did not put a heat register in bathroom.....but thankfully we don't do too much camping in colder months.....but again, another design flaw!
Gonna try the house registry or taping up one side of vent, mine has no heat in bathroom either, and we camo a lot during deer season, no a/c in bath either
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Old 05-09-2017, 10:58 AM   #14
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Gonna try the house registry or taping up one side of vent, mine has no heat in bathroom either, and we camo a lot during deer season, no a/c in bath either
Do you mean there is not heat vent in the bathroom or there is a vent but poor heating?

The fundamental problem with furnace heat is that when it is running, it has to put out TOO much heat to offset the time it is off and putting out ZERO heat. That concept works poorly in an RV having limited insulation and lots of air leaks. You are either too hot or too cold most of the time and most locations in the RV. Most of the time I use two oil filled electric heaters, one at each end of the the RV. These put out a constant source of heat even as the heating element cycles on and off. I use these in conjunction with controllers that plug into the wall outlets and have their own temp sensors. This way, the amount of heat output varies to match the heat loss all the time thru outside changes in temp and wind speed.
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Old 05-09-2017, 02:00 PM   #15
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Heat

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Do you mean there is not heat vent in the bathroom or there is a vent but poor heating?

The fundamental problem with furnace heat is that when it is running, it has to put out TOO much heat to offset the time it is off and putting out ZERO heat. That concept works poorly in an RV having limited insulation and lots of air leaks. You are either too hot or too cold most of the time and most locations in the RV. Most of the time I use two oil filled electric heaters, one at each end of the the RV. These put out a constant source of heat even as the heating element cycles on and off. I use these in conjunction with controllers that plug into the wall outlets and have their own temp sensors. This way, the amount of heat output varies to match the heat loss all the time thru outside changes in temp and wind speed.
No heat vent in restroom
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Old 05-11-2017, 08:03 AM   #16
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No heat vent in restroom
Wow that's surprising. Don't think I've ever owned a unit without a heat and air vent in the bathroom.
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Old 05-11-2017, 09:19 AM   #17
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My last 2 rvs had heat/air in bathroom, could never feel the air & roast meat when the heat came on.
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:11 AM   #18
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WE only have an a/c vent in ceiling, no heat register in bathroom. The heat register that is in kitchen area is right up close to wall with thermostat on it. (bathroom door right next to thermostat). Maybe they thought that was enough? But bathroom door is always closed so heat wouldn't make it in there. I did think of opening up underskirt to see if I could "extend" the heat plenum into bathroom.....but we pretty much only use air conditioning during warmer months anyway. But if we had the choice definitely would want both heat register & a/c vent in there.
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Old 05-11-2017, 02:30 PM   #19
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WE only have an a/c vent in ceiling, no heat register in bathroom. The heat register that is in kitchen area is right up close to wall with thermostat on it. (bathroom door right next to thermostat). Maybe they thought that was enough? But bathroom door is always closed so heat wouldn't make it in there. I did think of opening up underskirt to see if I could "extend" the heat plenum into bathroom.....but we pretty much only use air conditioning during warmer months anyway. But if we had the choice definitely would want both heat register & a/c vent in there.
I have the same trailer and do not think there is room under floor to ad a vent to bath cause the crapper holding tank is in the way. I reversed the bath door so we can access the bathroom with slide in. This allows door to stay open to let heat in. Added a little rubber bumper to the toilet bowl where the door contacts so no noise.
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Old 05-11-2017, 02:47 PM   #20
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Duh!......Silly me. You're absolutely right! Black tank location under toilet floor never even crossed my mind! So your bathroom door opens into bathroom now with hinges on left side of door? I usually remove door entirely & wedge it between shower & closet with thick sponges so it doesn't move while travelling. This way we can use bathroom while travelling without opening slide. It's just the misses & I so privacy is not an issue.

I must admit I am always nervous when I go to open or close slide since having it repaired last year at cost of about $1800 CDN. They had to replace entire Schwintek system (both sides). So the less I have to open it the better. When we get where we're going I just replace screws back into 1 side of hinges. (Leave hinges attached to wall jamb)
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