Dump valve sticks

[albertr]

The last 2 times that I dumped the bathroom grey water holding tank the valve was almost impossible to open. I am afraid that I will not be able to open it next time. Last time was yesterday. This is on our 2011 Cruiser 5th wheel. Any suggestions? Thks....Al

[NorskeNY]

My black water tank valve does the same thing - I was worried about getting it open and it fails to close. I purchased a drain valve that can be attached to the drain line.

Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve

Some people use drain valve lubricant and have had positive results

[Lloyd]

Originally Posted by NorskeNY

My black water tank valve does the same thing - I was worried about getting it open and it fails to close. I purchased a drain valve that can be attached to the drain line.

Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve

Some people use drain valve lubricant and have had positive results

All good points.
I have the Valterra valve also. It would be helpful if you knew for sure just what was causing the valve to be hard to open. Whether it's in the the cable, or if it's the blade binding.

[NorskeNY]

PS - I'll probably pull back the "belly" black protective bottom and look at the drain valve cable lay out - the cable may need lubricating. I have sprayed silicon lube in the valve handle area - not much help though.

[Darrell]

I posted a similar problem on here a few years ago. I included what I did to repair the valve. In my case the valve stem was pulling out of the valve body - but leaving the valve blade behind! I also installed an extra valve on the outlet end of the drain system - as a "just in case" as noted above.

[Dayle1]

I first tried lubing the cable with no success. But I have had good results with mineral oil in the tank. You have to empty the tank first, then close the valve and pour in about 2 pints of mineral oil followed by a little water to flush the oil thru the P-trap. After a few hours, open the valve and drain the oil/water mix into a bucket. Open and close the valve several times to lube both sides of the valve blade and seal. Repeat the process on both gray tanks, then use the mixture on the black tank.

My valves are still pretty hard to open, but only about the first 1/4 inch of movement, then they open very easily and close easily.

Since you are having a problem with the smaller gray valve,if like many of us, you leave the gray valve open, you might also experiment with keeping it closed until time to empty the tank to keep the valve and seal from drying out. Also, while there is no tank flush on the gray tank, you should try flushing the tank whenever possible to clean the tank and valve as much as possible.

If all else fails, drop the underbelly fabric and check the cable for sharp bends or other problems.

As others have stated, an add-on valve on the main outlet is a good backup plan in case a cable valve fails when open.

[mark5w]

I know of a few that poured in olive oil to lube the internal gasket of the valve, but if that doesn't work you will have to pull the bottom off to check it out.
BTW, I use olive oil in my toilet over the winter to keep the gasket from drying out.

[socoguy]

Originally Posted by mark5w

I know of a few that poured in olive oil to lube the internal gasket of the valve, but if that doesn't work you will have to pull the bottom off to check it out.
BTW, I use olive oil in my toilet over the winter to keep the gasket from drying out.

Good tip, olive oil. never use petroleum based oils they can deteriorate the seal.

[bandb]

Any red wine vinegar with the olive oil?

Sorry I just couldn't resist. Maybe too much time on my hands!

Bruce

[harleyb]

I have an 2013 330 SS, my black water valve took all I had to open and close. Had some warranty done and asked them to look at it. The cable was too short and it would kink up, put much longer cable in and made bigger loop, works great. This is a known defect on this unit.