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Old 08-12-2013, 10:33 AM   #1
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Today I pulled my panel for the first time as I had a few things I wanted to re-wire. First thing, everytime the water pump kicks in all the living room lights flicker (same circuit). The dealer was supposed to address this everytime I brought it in for warranty work but never corrected it. I thought by upgrading to LEDs and lessening the amperage draw that it would solve the problem. It was just the opposite. The LEDs flickered worse. My next step was to isolate the pump on its own circuit. The rating plate says it draws 7amps but use a 10amp fuse. I pulled the control panel which is conveniently located near the breaker panel. I disconnected the 12volt powering the water pump switch (which also powered the living room lights, porch light, scare light and the 120v/gas switch for the water heater). I fished a new 12v line from the panel thinking that this would work great. It did nothing. Still have the lights flicking everytime the pump kicks in.... Anyone have any ideas???

Second thing, every morning were juggling the toaster, electric frying pan and coffee maker trying not to trip a 15amp breaker as all the plugs on the main level of the trailer are on one circuit. I managed to successfully isolate one plug on its own that we usually plug the coffee maker in. While I was in the panel (50amp), I noticed a plug facing the back of the panel that was not connected to any breaker. Just a couple of loose pigtail wires hanging out of it. Does anyone know what thats for??? My only guess is its meant for the converter if it happens to be located within reach.

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Old 08-12-2013, 11:52 AM   #2
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I would check size of your 12 volt supply as well as checking for loose connections thru the system. also check the actualamp draw of the pump.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:39 AM   #3
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Yesterday I only ran a new hot wire to the water pump switch and used the existing/shared negative line. Today when I got home from work I pulled both panels and fished another wire through the wall so that the water pump and lighted switch would have a dedicated negative wire. This didn't eliminate the flickering but greatly improved it. I have some regular bulbs and some LEDs in the trailer (they are too expensive to upgrade all at once) and the regular bulbs did NOT flicker at all. As for the LEDs I would say its about a 75% improvement. I guess I'll just have to live with that.
While in the panel yesterday I tightened every screw about a 1/4 turn. I was also disgusted with the mess of sawdust in the compartment and cut out pieces of panelling left behind......


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Old 08-13-2013, 11:04 AM   #4
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Matt, I found all of the negative wires connected to the bus bar in our breaker box were lose. Are those the ones you had to tighten also? And I agree with you 100%, for the kind of money you pay for RV's you would think they could do a better job cleaning them up. As guess as the old saying goes, out of sight out of mind. They figure what you can't see won't matter. I think if more people pulled access panels and looked behind them they would cringe.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:15 AM   #5
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I tightened all the screws in the bus bars for both 12v and 120v. The 12v side has no space left in the bus bars.
As for the sawdust and debris, after 3 years I still find it in corners and crevices. I guess all the vibrations going down the road shake it out onto the floor. Another thing I saw that I didn't like was all the 120v wires coming out of the panel were zip tied together. Wire bundling could cause them to overheat.


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