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Old 05-02-2010, 05:21 AM   #1
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My FW is the version with the kids bunk room at the front. When the kids are rowdy up front I have tons of movement in the trailer. I have 4 Waynes Stabilizers on the trailer - one front & rear and one on each side - this helped but I still feel them moving around up there. Do you think that since the kids are above the pin - would putting a pin stabilizer on my unit make a difference? Also would adding locking chocks help? My unit never moves it sits in our permanent site.



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Old 05-02-2010, 05:44 AM   #2
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With the unit in a permanent site I would raise the trailer more taking wieght off the suspension. Add support just behind the rear spring hangers. You could also add support just in front of the spring hangers. I doubt the kingpin stabilizer will help much if you have the Waynes on the front. I have also added a type of Waynes that goes from the landing gear rearward to the frame. This helped with fore and aft movement.
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:02 AM   #3
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I think you will have to raise it enough to get the weight off the tires. As rcflyer says, jack it up and remove the effect of the springs and tires. Also having something better than screw down jacks ,which have joints that move ,supporting the camper would help. Have you thought of going to a mobile home instead of camper for permanent living?
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Old 05-02-2010, 12:25 PM   #4
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I think you will get some movement unless you put it up on blocks. I do not have the Stabilizers on the front leg. I do have the wheels locked with wheel chocks and still there was lots of movement so I then used a tripod on the king pin and that worked great. Now it did not take all of it away but much better.

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Old 05-04-2010, 06:04 AM   #5
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Tripod under the kingpin works for me also. Some folks use stabilizers that go from the landing gear to the frame that are supposed to work better than the tripod. I don't own them so I can't say for sure.
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Old 05-04-2010, 06:53 AM   #6
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We just ordered our CF30SK so don't have it yet but one of the things we discussed with our dealer was jacking the trailer. He said that CS does not recommend using the back jacks to lift the trailer but only to stabilize it. We used a tripod on our old fiver and it worked pretty good. I do think I'll add wheel chocks to this new one.

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Old 05-04-2010, 09:07 AM   #7
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I use the factory rear stabilizer jacks, BAL wheel chocks and the king pin stabilizer (the one with 2 legs). I make the rear as tight as I can, then I lower the front landing gear (raising the nose) a tad bit more, then crank the king pin stabilizer tight as I can. I'll then raise the front landing gear, (lowering the nose) and putting more a bit more weight on the king pin stabilizer, then go and re-tighten the rear stabilizer. Once the unit is stabilized, I insert the BALs.

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Old 05-10-2010, 07:32 PM   #8
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I have electric rear stabilizers in the rear, and the eliminator stabilizer system in the front, I also use roto-chocks on both wheels, sits tight, no movement, I did the king pin jack, it's big, heavy and never worked, if you want no movement go with a front set of stabilizers...mine has almost no movement......
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:39 AM   #9
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We had a kingpin stabilizer but it's now gathering dust in the storage shed since I installed a set of JT StrongArms on our 5vr. The StrongArms made all the difference and between the kingpin stablilizer and the JT's, there is no comparison. The StrongArms win hands down. If you want a stable 5vr then the JT StrongArms or similar devices are the way to go.
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Old 05-11-2010, 03:47 AM   #10
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As like George, I ditched the Kingpin tripod stabilizer and went with the telescoping tubes system. No comparison! Easier setup and rock solid! No pinched fingers and lost storage space.



There are a few out there. I bought Plug It Right's systems. I see they have upgraded their system to powder coated tubes and have the Big Foot Levelers as an added option. www.plugitright.comThese folks are full-time RVers!
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Old 05-11-2010, 04:46 AM   #11
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Like the previous two posts, I also ditched my kingpin tripod stabilizer. I went with the plugitright www.plugitright.com stabilizers on all four corners. I have never had an RV as solid and stable as it is now.

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Old 05-11-2010, 04:49 AM   #12
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Question for Bob and Geroge, did either of you install your own stabilizers and what kind of experience was it if you did? I'm looking at a set of these for my new CF30SK. Also did you use four or six?

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Old 05-11-2010, 05:40 AM   #13
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Dutch and Diane from Plug It Right just happened to be in FL when I ordered mine so I had them come by and install it. It is not that difficult and it can be easily done. I provideda 6ft angle iron and Dutch mounted it across the front to mount the front center struts to. It provides a stiffermount than the bottom of the storage well.I am also able to access the spare tire mount and did not have to move it. I have the six tube system.



The trick to these systems togetting the most solid setup after leveling your rig.After you tighten the tubes, drop your levelers about 1/4 inch to cinch down on the bolts. Rock solid!
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Old 05-11-2010, 06:39 AM   #14
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I have one more question for Bob, are your scissor jacks in back mounter square or at an angle? My are mounted at a 45 degree angle I wonder if the rear stabilizers will work that way.

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Old 05-11-2010, 08:04 AM   #15
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The rear stabilizers have one strut each and is mounted in such a way that there is triangulation in both directions. It shouldn't make a pinch of difference that your rear stabilizers are mounted on a 45 deg angle. Here's the link to the JT StrongArm installation instructions.

http://www.jtrv.com/images/products/..._instructs.pdf
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Old 05-11-2010, 08:13 AM   #16
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I agree. The angle of your rear scissors should not make a difference. The two rear bars stop the side-to-side waggle.
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Old 05-12-2010, 07:02 AM   #17
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Hi Bob,
You wrote; "The trick to these systems togetting the most solid setup after

leveling your rig.After you tighten the tubes, drop your levelers

about 1/4 inch to cinch down on the bolts. Rock solid!"
I looked at the manual for JT Strong Arms and they say to bump it up a tiny bit. I'm curious which way is best.


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Old 05-12-2010, 09:47 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyB
Hi Bob,
You wrote; "The trick to these systems togetting the most solid setup after leveling your rig.After you tighten the tubes, drop your levelers about 1/4 inch to cinch down on the bolts. Rock solid!"
I looked at the manual for JT Strong Arms and they say to bump it up a tiny bit. I'm curious which way is best.


I followed the JT instructions for the setup and it works great. I usually raise the front until it's slightly below level and then I set and tighten the rear struts and StrongArms. Once that is done, I raise the front of the trailer slightly above level and tighten the front StrongArms and then lower the front to level. I've found that if you are on a non solid surface like a concrete pad, you may have to adjust things a bit after a few days because thetrailer tends tosettle into theground.Edited by: Hamops
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Old 05-13-2010, 02:59 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamops



I usually raise the front until it's slightly below level and then I set and tighten the rear struts and StrongArms. Once that is done, I raise the front of the trailer slightly above level and tighten the front StrongArms and then lower the front to level. I've found that if you are on a non solid surface like a concrete pad, you may have to adjust things a bit after a few days because thetrailer tends tosettle into theground.
You did a greatjob at describing what I meant!
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Old 05-13-2010, 08:01 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyB
Question for Bob and Geroge, did either of you install your own stabilizers and what kind of experience was it if you did? I'm looking at a set of these for my new CF30SK. Also did you use four or six?




I installed my JT StrongArms. The instructions were very good. I had to move the spare tire rack back about three inches so that I could mount the front StrongArms.
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