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Old 05-03-2016, 06:06 PM   #1
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fridge cooling problem Dometic DM2852

Having a cooling problem with my fifth wheel fridge. 2011 Crossroads Cruiser Sahara. Since day one cooling has only been adequate. I had it check right after we bought it and was told working fine no problem. Our last outing cooling was great, outside temps were only in the 80’s. On the way home stopping half way for a quick lunch the fridge temp was 52 deg. I took it back in to the same dealer and they say I need a new fridge. #@%!’ers. Cooling unit out. I have been monitoring it over the last few days and my results are below

RV fridge Dometic DM2852
2 way fridge 120v electric & gas

I made sure drip tube has sufficient droop to hold water like p-trap.

4/30/16
Electric
65 Outside temp 8:00AM fridge 43 deg. fins 37
74 Outside temp 2:00PM fridge 50 deg fins 43
80 Outside temp 7:00PM fridge 49 deg 42

Switched to gas
5/1/16
Gas
56 Outside temp 6:30AM fridge 37 deg fins 30
65 Outside temp 5:00PM fridge 50 deg fins 44

5/2/16
Bypass control board
After 3 hrs
60 Outside temp 8:00PM fridge 37 deg fins 26
5/3/16
50 Outside temp 7:00AM fridge 17 deg fins 9
75 Outside temp 2:00PM fridge 33 deg fins 24

One hour after switching back to controlled electric
75 Outside temp 6:00PM fridge 43 deg fins 38

Electric heat element check
Outlet was pushing 124V. Amp rate on the heating element was 2.68A
2.68A X 124V = 332W
+/- 10% (33) = 365W element seems to check out!

Gas is just as bad, so I’m kind of think control board since when bypassed temps dropped to freezing.
Am I missing anything? Any help would greatly be appreciated!
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:17 PM   #2
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Open the refig, If I remember right as you look intoo the unit you will see some finns. On this finn a a small slide you move this up or down to adjust the coolong. I think down is more cooling
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:31 PM   #3
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I had trouble 2 - 3 years back. It was the thermistor. they are not very costly. $20.00 to 25.00
Plugs in at back of fridge and clips onto the fins.
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:08 PM   #4
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Yea, up for more cooling but that didn't help. I thought if the termistor was bad it would cause the fridge not to cycle and freeze up? It's a cheap enough part to try! But will wait and see if any other ideas come along.
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:10 PM   #5
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I know others have added a second cooling fan behind the fins.
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:47 PM   #6
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I know others have added a second cooling fan behind the fins.
Inside the fridge or back of unit cooling the condenser? I tried one in the fridge. All it seemed to do after 6 hours was move the warn air around!
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:51 PM   #7
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There is a check for the thermistor. It used to be on this forum but not sure if it still is. Has to do with putting the bulb end of the thermistor into a glass of ice water and measuring the resistance at the two wire ends. You may be able to find the test "online". I agree though, from your data it sounds like either the control board or thermistor is bad.
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:55 PM   #8
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There is a check for the thermistor. It used to be on this forum but not sure if it still is. Has to do with putting the bulb end of the thermistor into a glass of ice water and measuring the resistance at the two wire ends. You may be able to find the test "online". I agree though, from your data it sounds like either the control board or thermistor is bad.
I found some where else 2000 at room temp, and 9000 when placed in ice water.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:27 PM   #9
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The fan was placed behind the fridge. Here is a picture. For more info, pm NorskeNY
He has description, parts list, and pics of his mod.
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:38 AM   #10
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mark5w, mine is setup exactly the same only two cooling fans side by side. Just a little further down maybe 10" or so! This morning outside temp when leaving for work. 52 deg Fridge temp 33 temp on the fins 24. Cold front pushing out today should get up to mid 80's. With sun beading down on that side of the RV should be equivalent to 90 or so deg.
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:43 AM   #11
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Is your fridge in the slide out?
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:45 AM   #12
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Is your fridge in the slide out?
Yes!
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:47 AM   #13
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In the past there have been complaints that the fridges in the slide outs weren't cooling properly due to having to vent out the side rather then up -- thru the roof.
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Old 05-04-2016, 08:24 AM   #14
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If the fridge is in the slide with sidewall vents then you should already have the extra fans under the cooling fins in back. If you unplug the thermistor (two white wires) from the control board that will place the fridge in a "max cold" condition. If it cools down then your cooling unit is good and I go back to what I suggested before that the board or thermistor is bad. Since it was warming up while driving (previous post) then that leads me to think it is not an airflow issue.
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Old 05-04-2016, 11:06 AM   #15
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I would check the back for proper air flow. Adding the additional fan helped mine a little. Cool down time is faster. RVs with the fridge in the slide has one fan installed to help with air flow. I know when mine is running - high pitched noise.

Is the sensor adjusted properly in the fridge? The bracket is moved up or down to increase or decrease cooling - up is colder.

If it did not provide any cooling then the fridge may need replacement.

Picture of the original fan - about 1/2 way down the back of the fridge and the there is a sensor/switch that controls the fan. If you get on a ladder and take the top outside cover off you can see the fan and sensor. Check the area to ensure nothing is in the way of the air flow.
Attached Images
File Type: png thermistor.png (4.3 KB, 78 views)
File Type: jpg orig. fan.JPG (121.6 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg thermo switch.JPG (126.6 KB, 14 views)
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Old 05-04-2016, 11:21 AM   #16
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RV fridge theory - sorry could not upload the file

A couple of tips- if the refrigerator has been working, and it suddenly stop cooling, turn it off for one to two hours, re-level the RV, and turn it back on. Sometimes the flow of ammonia can become "vapor locked", and turning it off will allow the pressures to equalize (the old method was called "burping", and consisted of taking the refrigerator out of the coach and turning it upside down.. newer models- built since the early 1980's, do not need this, nor will it help).
A venting tip is that there is a minimum clearance at the back of the refrigerator. If the back wall is more than one inch away from the refrigerator coils, an added baffle will greatly improve the efficiency, because a large gap will allow the air drawn in by convection to bypass the coils, but if you put a baffle in to force the air to pass over the coils, the refrigerator will cool much more efficiently.
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File Type: jpg theory.jpg (62.2 KB, 14 views)
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Old 05-04-2016, 02:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorskeNY View Post
I would check the back for proper air flow. Adding the additional fan helped mine a little. Cool down time is faster. RVs with the fridge in the slide has one fan installed to help with air flow. I know when mine is running - high pitched noise.

Is the sensor adjusted properly in the fridge? The bracket is moved up or down to increase or decrease cooling - up is colder.

If it did not provide any cooling then the fridge may need replacement.

Picture of the original fan - about 1/2 way down the back of the fridge and the there is a sensor/switch that controls the fan. If you get on a ladder and take the top outside cover off you can see the fan and sensor. Check the area to ensure nothing is in the way of the air flow.
Mine is installed exactly like yours. Fan was in the same position. Only now I have two fans side by side, but ironically in the same position. Two fans pushing 40cfm each. I'm trying the thermistor approach first. The other RV parts supplier provided me with an updated part along with the new thermistor. Converting my no controlled cooling to controlled cooling Now. The dial adheres with double sided tape to the control board cover I provide a picture when I can. I may add a second baffle at a 30-45 deg angel hopefully forcing air directly into the condenser. But here right now the hi temps are only in the low 80's. So the freaking fan isn't actually kicking on! Hope the new thermistor it does the trick!
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:01 PM   #18
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Well, fool me once! But not again. Now the the fans I installed yesterday are up and running properly. Cooling seems to be fine. 85 degrees outside. In direct sun I'm reading 100 with instant read raytek inside top vent. Both fans running. Fridge reads 38! Maybe just the cooling fans! Good grief! Thanks for all the help! I'll keep you updated.
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Old 05-08-2016, 02:38 PM   #19
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I have yet to replace the thermistor since I don’t believe that was the problem. However I did have to replace the vent fan in the bathroom. Just a little too noisy for the wife, and I agree. I took the old fan and lightly sprayed it with silicon. That quieted it down. Then I had an idea, that wouldn’t hurt. That fan pushes a lot of air. I used a band strap and mounted that fan to push air directly on the absorber coils sucking air thru bottom vent. The top fans will help pull the air up cooling the condenser, and out the top vent. I figure that’s where all the heat is coming from causing the fridge not to cool properly. Straight thru the back. If I’m right should take care of the cooling problem. I will post pictures if all goes well, and solves my problem!
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Old 05-08-2016, 03:10 PM   #20
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Another tip from a fellow RV'er. place an aquatic thermometer in a sealed mason jar or something similar. Fill the jar with water. While insulated in water, it allows for very accurate reading.
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