Fridge Drain Hose

[Hunter11]

Does anyone know what size hose it would take to replace the fridge drain hose? I need to pull our fridge out this weekend because some of the insulation behind it has fallen down and I want to fix that and add more to it because I can tell they did not put much in there. While I have it out I want to replace the plastic wire cover they call a drain hose because ours has decayed. From just looking I am thinking a piece of automotive fuel hose with a hose clamp on the fridge end would work but would like to see what others have used on theirs.

[mark5w]

Don't know the size but I would not use the rubber hose..it will deteriorate faster than non rubber type. Check out Lowe's or Home depot for some other type of plastic hose. They have a variety of types and sizes.

Good luck with your project.

[Hunter11]

Yeah I had thought about looking to see what Lowe's had when I go get the ridged insulation and construction adhesive I intend to use behind the fridge. I am just unsure of the hose size required. I had replaced the one on our old Cruiser but can't remember what size I used. Edited by: Hunter11

[Hunter11]

After doing a search on past threads about this it looks like it may be 1/2" ID hose. I will see what Lowe's has tonight that will work.

[fancycamper]

I would make sure you put a screen on the end of the hose so no little uninvited guest show up.

[cwit]

I used clear plastic 1/2ins. bought at the local hardware. I'm almost positive it was 1/2ins. lol

[Hunter11]

We are going to take on this project tomorrow morning so I will report back how it goes and what we find.

[mark5w]

Good luck.

[Hunter11]

Well the project is complete. I was told by a couple of other owners that have had their fridges out that the factory insulation is a joke. Well in our case it was also. After removing the fridge they had only put insulation in areas you could see from the outside vent. In our case both pieces of insulation against the outside wall had come loose and fallen down. About 1/2 of the compartment had insulation and the other 1/2 had nothing. The wife and I put pieces of 3/4' ridged insulation on all areas of the compartment fastening them with Loctite Quick Grip construction adhesive. Once we had that done we came back and installed 6" batt insulation over that with 3M spray adhesive. We feel much better now about our heating and cooling since three of the compartment walls are interior trailer walls. All total it took us about 4 hours start to finish.

And I did replace the wire loom they consider a drain hose with the 1/2" ID plastic hose I bought at Lowe's. The "factory" hose had broken in three different sections so that was pretty much worthless. If anyone else ever decides to give this project a go it was not as bad as I thought it would be.

[Texas1949]

Glad everything went smooth....

[Stan]

Keith, how hard was it to pull the fridge out? It looks pretty simple but.....

[Hunter11]

Stan, first would be to have something about the same height as the bottom of the fridge to sit it on once you get it out. I had a Stanley tool box on wheels that worked great to slide it on top of when we got it out. Next I just unplugged the unit, disconnected a few wires at the rear through the vent and removed the two screws holding the back in. Then you remove the top plate inside at the top above the freezer door and remove two screws and two at the bottom and you are ready to slide the unit out the front. Just reverse going back in.

Another thing I might add was once the unit is out it gives you good access to clean the cooling coil and fins. Ours were pretty dirty with dust and insulation from where it had fallen off the wall onto the coils. The drain tube is also very easy to swap while it is out.

[Stan]

Thanks for the info. It does sound pretty easy.