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Old 07-17-2013, 09:59 PM   #1
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Finally got my predator 4000 Genny and when I hooked 'er up to my 13.5k btu AC I was surprised to find it blew the fuse....welp, there goes that idea. Seems to work ok for anything 10k and under.

Just a word of warning to you all...


Now where did I go wrong with my math?
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:52 AM   #2
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A couple thoughts,
Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
-Elevation affects performance of the genny plus what it takes to start the AC unit.
-Outside temp also affects how hard or easy the AC wants to turn over. I found that on real hot days it was harder for the initial start up of the unit.

-How accurate is the rating of the genny, perhaps the mfg is stretching the truth a bit.
Each AC unit can be slightly different than another. I had an old unit with a well used AC unit that would start and run off a single honda 2000 genny. Now by new unit takes all the work 2 units can provide.

Good luck.

Stay cool, if you can.



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Old 07-18-2013, 02:05 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnsunset
A couple thoughts,
Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
-Elevation affects performance of the genny plus what it takes to start the AC unit.
-Outside temp also affects how hard or easy the AC wants to turn over. I found that on real hot days it was harder for the initial start up of the unit.

-How accurate is the rating of the genny, perhaps the mfg is stretching the truth a bit.
Each AC unit can be slightly different than another. I had an old unit with a well used AC unit that would start and run off a single honda 2000 genny. Now by new unit takes all the work 2 units can provide.

Good luck.

Stay cool, if you can.


From everything I have been able to find out, you are 100% correct!
I was shocked that my 2000 honda wouldn't run our 13500 AC. So I changed out the start capacitor. That didn't make a lick of difference. I know for a fact that my old honda started a 15000 AC on our HH.
I'm in the market for another honda 2000, but it will have to be the companion.
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:44 PM   #4
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Well, I believe I was incorrect in my statement. There are a few connectors on the genny and two of them are 110 @ 13 amp which of course will not hold the AC up and then there is the transfer connector which I need the adaptor for that will allow me to have 30 amps for the RV. Problem: I have no time to get one as the local CW is over two hours away and even overnighting one will be too late. Darn! I can't bring my genny with me! anyone have the pinouts for the adaptor and I'll buy the parts and build it myself...
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:56 PM   #5
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Can you have CW send it where you folks are going?
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:18 PM   #6
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I think you better be careful and make sure what the connecter will do that you are talking about. That's a 220 volt plug!! Plus, if it does split it up right, how many amps will it have on each leg?


Edited by: Old Farmer
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:39 PM   #7
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If you have one of these type plugs (4 prong). This is reasonable from Home Depot if you have one near you.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Rodale-30-A...V30F/202510179

Sears wants a fortune for one of these type so don't go there. I use an actual single plug with no cable designed for the generator connection on one side and RV female on the other side that I plug the 30 amp RV plug into.

If you want to make an adapter you need an L14-30 male plug for the generator and a TT-30R female receptacle for your trailer. Preferably mated with minimum 10/3 but can use 8/3 wire.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:36 PM   #8
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I made several trips to the local places and no one has it except online and it will take days to get it so I'm going to have to deal with no A/C until I get to my Destination. I could build one but I don't want a ramshackle connector that could short out my whole vacation so I'll try one last place today then throw in the towel.

I'm sure if I can get that connector hooked up IT WILL keep the TT alive with power.

Lesson learned for next long trip.


Well, we leave in two days with 4 teenage girls, 1 adult daughter, a Wife and myself. Oh what a trip that will be!

See you in sunny Florida!
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:31 AM   #9
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I always have the feeling I'm gambling when buying stuff from Harbor Freight. Sometimes it's OK...

I did see a review for your genny on their site with a person having the same RV A/C unit problems you are experiencing. Perhaps HF is not quite accurate on their specs?
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:57 AM   #10
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I'm pretty sure the problem is that the 110 sockets are only 13 amp and the 30 amp connector requires the adaptor which I am picking up tonight so I'll plug it in and let it run and report back on how it works.

I will say though that the Predator Generator I have seems to run much quieter than the larger 5500 I have and only gets loud when it's under load during start up of any high wattage equipment. Once it settles down you can talk while standing next to it and hear yourself.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildWildWest
If you have one of these type plugs (4 prong). This is reasonable from Home Depot if you have one near you.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Rodale-30-A...V30F/202510179

Sears wants a fortune for one of these type so don't go there. I use an actual single plug with no cable designed for the generator connection on one side and RV female on the other side that I plug the 30 amp RV plug into.

If you want to make an adapter you need an L14-30 male plug for the generator and a TT-30R female receptacle for your trailer. Preferably mated with minimum 10/3 but can use 8/3 wire.
Scott, thanks for posting that link. I have never had need to go that route, so I was totally unaware that there was anything out there on the market like that.
Good info.
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:29 AM   #12
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Home depot and Lowes has them but they have to be ordered on line in my area.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:19 AM   #13
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And at WalMart

http://mobile.walmart.com/m/phoenix;...ector/22025557

Also, some generators use an L5-30 plug so you need to know what your generator has for a receptacle.
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:07 AM   #14
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The adapter is what you need. The Genny puts out two seperate legs of 120v power. each leg is 1/2 of the total rated wattage so a 4000w genny puts out (2) 120V legs of 2000Watts a piece. 30 amp TT power is unique in it is single pole or 120V, so it only uses 1 leg of the total generator power avail. Or in other words, you only getto use half of what you paid for. Good Info so you dont overload the Genny.
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:07 AM   #15
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Good News!, I went to Campingworld this morning and got the dog bone adaptor. At first the fuse would pop as soon as the A/C kicked in. After scratching ,my head a few minutes I realized the whole system was pulling amps from the Genny so I turned off the breakers for everything except the A/C and it stays running great! As long as I have a good charge on the battery sitting at a rest stop for a bout an hour or two will be no problem with the genny running!

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Old 07-21-2013, 01:35 AM   #16
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Ken,
I decided to try my Generac 3250W last night. Here are my results.
Although I have 1625W avail on the L1 and a 13,500btu AC pulls around 1200W running, My little Genny did not have enough Surge Watts to cover the startup of the AC unit which can pull up to 2750W to start. I too am tripping the main on the Genny. You are just squeeking under the limits with a 4000W conventional generator. By my calculations a 5500W conventional or a 3000W Honda/Yamaha would be required to power the Genny and other parts of the trailer.
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:33 PM   #17
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The starting surge is what some of the smaller generators are note able to handle with AC's Case in point, my one honda eu2000 will not even think about starting my 15K AC, but will run the basics with no issue.I bought a second honda eu2000 and the patch cables and the two in tandem have no problems with the 15K AC. We did camp truck-stop on the way to the factory rally this year, and with the extended fuel system hooked up, I ran both units for over 7-hours with no problems and kept nice and cool. The new honda eu3000 would also have no issue running the AC as well.
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:33 PM   #18
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Time for me look into a second Honda 2000. Lost power last night. Its 100°. Jump into the truck. Drove around for a hour. Came home, power back on.
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Old 07-23-2013, 04:58 PM   #19
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I am a little perplexed to find that my TT is only a few months old and anytime I connect to a 30 amp pedestal at any RV park and the AC kicks in it trips the breaker. I find that I have to keep it coonnected to the 50 amp plug with the dog bone and everything seems to stay working. I wonder if its just that most RV parks have overused 30 amp breakers?

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Old 07-24-2013, 01:00 AM   #20
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Ken, that does not sound right. I am hooked up to a 15 amp breaker at my house and I can still run the AC. I am pulling 13-15 amps running the AC soI can't run anything else in the trailer with the AC running without poping my house breaker, but you should not be triping a 30amp breaker. you would have to run the AC and the hot water heater together or maybe the fireplace or all three to pull that kind of amperage. You maybe experiancing bad camp ground power or something else needs to be investigated. I have a surge guard power protector with a digital readout. not only does it protect the trailer, but it showes me exactly how many volts and how many amps I am using and of course with those two numbers and a little math I can calculate the wattage.
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