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Old 01-11-2015, 01:44 PM   #1
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Holding tank valve control cables

On our 2012 Cruiser 305SK I am having an increasingly difficult time opening and closing my holding tank valves. I have tried to resolve the situation by spraying lube into the cable guide at the operating handle end with almost no change. Since I'm thinking of replacing the cables wondered if anyone has done this job and how difficult it was. Have an email off to Randy's department to see if they have a diagram showing how the cable is routed. Any thoughts would be appreciated and thanks.

Bruce
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:23 PM   #2
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If you can, check where the blade seats into the groove. There might be crude in the groove making it stick.
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:41 PM   #3
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I wouldn't count on getting a diagram. Best option is to drop the bottom and look yourself.
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Old 01-11-2015, 03:44 PM   #4
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Mark is right. No diagram needed. Having to drop the cover is a pain but once you do, the cables and valves will be visible and assessable. I doubt you will need to replace or even clean the cables.

I had the same problem as you with my black tank valve. I took the valve apart, cleaned it, and put some Lubriplate grease on the blade and groove and all was well. I also went ahead and did the same thing to my gray water valve while I was under there.

I will tell you, I don't think those cables will ever be "real" easy to push/pull, especially in colder weather.
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Old 01-11-2015, 04:38 PM   #5
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Thumbs up cables

My black water cable was almost impossible to use, while in having warranty work done I asked them to check it out. They said the cable was way to short and they put in one that was 2ft longer so as to make a larger loop. Works great now...
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:26 PM   #6
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When I needed to replace my valves on my 05 PP it was a real pain. After dropping the cover and found the valves that was easy. To me it seems that when CR built the trailer they glued the PVC and valves so they are very tight and not much movement. My biggest problem was setting the o-ring when sliding the valve back into place. After several tries I cut the PVC set the valve and added a rubber union from Home Depot. Now it works great.
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:08 PM   #7
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When mine were becoming difficult to operate, I lubed the cables and that didn't help. As already mentioned, sometimes the biggest problem is waste buildup around the blade, seal and even the cavity for the blade. Anyway one solution that I found was using mineral oil to help loosen some of that buildup. With all tanks empty and valves closed, I poured a mixture of about 50% mineral oil and 50% water into the grey tank first, let it sit for 1 hr, then opened the valve and captured the mixture in a pail. I then recycled it thru the grey tank a second time and when draining it, I opened and closed the valve quickly to help break loose some of the solid waste. Then I did the same procedure with the black valve.

This provided some improvement that has lasted for many months. The valve is still very difficult to operate, but just for the initial movement and once it moves just a fraction of an inch, the rest of the operation is very ez. Closing the valve is also very ez. You might want to try this technique before replacing the valve.
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Old 01-12-2015, 08:03 PM   #8
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I have had the same problem. when my unit was under warranty the black tank valve was leaking. When I took into the dealer I told the service manager that I wished there was a way to get rid of the cable since it was very hard to move.
He said that they could. On the original valve the cable made a large bend and connected to the valve facing away from the side of the trailer.
They installed the new valve rotating it 180 degrees with the handle facing out towards the frame . They installed a piece of 5/16 all thread on the valve handle drilled a 1/2 hole thru the side of the frame and ran the all thread straight out and put a T handle on it. Now I dont have a binding cable and it opens and closes very easy. It comes out right under the storage compartment door where all of your utilities are. You dont even have to get on your knees to locate it .
My grey tanks still have cables . I use the mineral spirits like Larry a couple times a year. I think the crud and the cables together make a bad combo.
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Old 01-13-2015, 07:12 AM   #9
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They installed the new valve rotating it 180 degrees with the handle facing out towards the frame . They installed a piece of 5/16 all thread on the valve handle drilled a 1/2 hole thru the side of the frame and ran the all thread straight out and put a T handle on it. Now I dont have a binding cable and it opens and closes very easy. It comes out right under the storage compartment door where all of your utilities are. You dont even have to get on your knees to locate it .
That is my last resort plan as well. I have the manual valve, threaded rod and coupling in the storage compartment so I can make the switch at any time. But with my floor plan, the T-handle has to be located on the curb side just in front of the steps. Not as nice as street side but not a deal breaker either.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:05 PM   #10
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I agree , I thought it would be a last result . But it works very well. I agree having it on the street side would be less than ideal , but a piece of mind is worth alot.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:38 PM   #11
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Would anyone consider an electric valve?? Around $150.00
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:17 PM   #12
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Would anyone consider an electric valve?? Around $150.00
I did a lot of research into them and they certainly are not a guaranteed solution. There is the potential for more problems. So, I'll stick with cable valves for now and keep the option of manual valves as a backup.
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Old 01-22-2015, 07:44 PM   #13
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Would anyone consider an electric valve?? Around $150.00
Our black tank valve got very difficult to open/close. I asked my wife to try it one day. She couldn't budge it. I ordered the Valterra EZ valve. Best thing I ever did to the Rushmore. You can actually flip a ring off the handle of the valve and operate it manually.
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Old 01-23-2015, 03:56 AM   #14
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Hi Will, Is that an electric valve? If it is a manual valve I would appreciate the model/part number Also did you replace the valve right at the black tank or was the EZ valve added further down the line towards the end of the sewer pipe?
Thanks, Bruce
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Old 01-23-2015, 11:36 AM   #15
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I believe this is what he has: remote controlled

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Old 01-23-2015, 11:52 AM   #16
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I think you are right Mark.
And it's only $250
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:04 PM   #17
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I found it for $150. For some, it's worth it.
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:13 PM   #18
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Just save your money, and have DW do it
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Old 01-23-2015, 06:32 PM   #19
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Just save your money, and have DW do it
Ouch!
That's just wrong!
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Old 01-24-2015, 07:42 AM   #20
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I found it for $150. For some, it's worth it.
IIRC, I bought ours on Amazon......shipped for $158. I didn't drop the belly. I cut a L shaped hole in it. Sealed with tape made for the coroplast. It was a booger bear to install! I'm glad I did it tho.
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