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Old 10-15-2019, 01:28 PM   #1
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hot water drain plug

Anyone ever replaced the plastic junk drain plin in the hot water tank and know what size and threading by chance. Forgot mine when I put it in winter storage want to get a substantial.one for spring open?


Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-15-2019, 01:52 PM   #2
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1/2in -14 NPT National Pipe Thread. Also i would use a brass plug.
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Old 10-15-2019, 01:59 PM   #3
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Every year I say I'm going to pickup a new brass plug for the water heater.

Haven't done it yet. Seems like I'm always in a hurry when doing the water system and I end up just wrapping a couple rounds of teflon tape around the old plastic one.
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Old 10-15-2019, 03:26 PM   #4
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I would suggest looking into the possibility of galvanic corrosion issues when combining brass and aluminum components. I can remember back in my boating days that one needs to be very cautious with what metals are used in a aqueous environment. Follows is a link that explains the concerns I have.

https://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm
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Old 10-15-2019, 03:39 PM   #5
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Good point, but they are not all made from aluminum.

Suburban water heater uses a steel tank.
Atwood uses an aluminum tank.
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Old 10-15-2019, 06:53 PM   #6
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Personally i use a plastic plug because i have several on hand. But if you use pipe tape and remove it each year brass should be fine. Also Cam-co makes a "drain plug " with a drain valve that is Brass. I remove mine once a year to winterize but during the year i open the pop off valve and the low point drain and it drains the water heater tank as i drive home. Also that reminded me the check valve and the pop off valve are both brass.
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Old 10-15-2019, 08:31 PM   #7
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You could always use a 3" brass nipple with brass or galv cap plug on the end. That is if it will fit thru gas line . Then it is an easy uncap to drain..no finger busting.
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Old 10-15-2019, 10:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Good point, but they are not all made from aluminum.

Suburban water heater uses a steel tank.
Atwood uses an aluminum tank.
Suburban water heaters must have an anode rod.
Atwood's have a plug, no anode.j
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Old 10-16-2019, 07:45 AM   #9
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So my Atwood has a plug but I installed an anode rod. Did I need to? It needs replacing in the spring upon inspection after draining tank.
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Old 10-16-2019, 07:52 AM   #10
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Not sure if it caused any damage to the tank or not, but yes put a regular drain plug back in.
I suppose you will find out over time if it done any harm.
How long was it in there?
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Old 10-16-2019, 07:58 AM   #11
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Not sure if it caused any damage to the tank or not, but yes put a regular drain plug back in.
I suppose you will find out over time if it done any harm.
How long was it in there?


Anode rod has been in there for 5 seasons and is done. Tank works and no leaks. If that’s the case I’ll just put plug back in. I thought plug was put in for cost cutting as my previous FR camper had one.
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Old 10-16-2019, 08:07 AM   #12
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Unless you have the Anode rod. Which I don’t. I’ve always replaced mine with these. Can get it at camping world or if you know the size you can order off eBay. Then you don’t have to remove it every time you want to drain the water heater. Just unscrew the valve and let it drain.
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Old 10-16-2019, 08:09 AM   #13
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Sorry to hijack thread but thanks for the info guys.
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Old 10-16-2019, 08:22 AM   #14
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With the anode rod.
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Old 10-16-2019, 09:25 AM   #15
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I did what Papa-T suggested. I installed a Boiler Drain valve and added a short run of pipe so it drains down and away from the W/H cavity. Been there for 6-7 years, no issue and easy to drain.
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Old 10-16-2019, 09:56 AM   #16
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Thanks dagst1
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Old 10-16-2019, 09:59 AM   #17
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Good Deal Stan The extension is a great thought What section did you add that too?
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Old 10-16-2019, 10:08 AM   #18
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Glad to help
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Old 10-16-2019, 01:12 PM   #19
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PattyV - I simple got a quarter turn Boiler drain and added a real short pipe nipple between the valve and tank. I can still close the W/H cover door but when it drains it flows onto the open door and then onto the ground.
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Old 10-16-2019, 01:44 PM   #20
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I have a Atwood water heater and the drain sets behind the gas line/control valve. I tried to add a short pipe nipple but it would not clear the gas line. If you have a Atwood water heater how did you get it to clear? I would like to add a pipe to mine to get it out from behind the gas line.
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