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Old 07-05-2010, 07:54 AM   #1
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I bought a Zinger 26RL two weeks ago. I have it at a campground in MonroeCounty. It's hooked up to 30 amps of electrical. I tried to run the hot water heater off electricity. I flipped the switch inside the trailer and left for about1 hour. When I came back, no hot water. What did I do wrong. I only wanted to run the hot water unit off electricity.The air conditioning was not running.
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Old 07-05-2010, 08:33 AM   #2
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Is the breaker for the hot water heater on? Have you tried to run it on gas? Maybe your bypass valves are in the winterizing position. Try these few things first before getting into some serious troubleshooting.
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Old 07-05-2010, 09:09 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryeja
Is the breaker for the hot water heater on? Have you tried to run it on gas? Maybe your bypass valves are in the winterizing position. Try these few things first before getting into some serious troubleshooting.
Good advice. Also there is usually a on/off rocker switch at the water heater. Remove the outside cover and check the switch.

If you had no water inside the heater tank when you first tried, and you successfully turned on the electric element, then you have burned out the element and it will need to be replaced. They will last for about 5 sec without water!

If everything else looks good you are going to have to check to see if you really are getting 120 volts at the heater.
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Old 07-05-2010, 10:13 AM   #4
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My wife turned on the hot water tap on the faucet and water came out, so I'm pretty sure water was in the tank before that. I had the water line hooked up on Friday and tried the hot heater on Saturday so I think there was water in the tank.
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Old 07-05-2010, 10:55 AM   #5
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Are you sure you have a gas/elec hot water heater? The specs for Zingers show that they are not available for your model.



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Old 07-05-2010, 11:15 AM   #6
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It has a 6 gallon gas/electric DSI water heater.
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Old 07-05-2010, 12:51 PM   #7
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If the bypass valves are in the bypass position, you will still get water out of the faucet when opening the hot valve. If you get hot water with gas, you have an electrical problem.
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Old 07-05-2010, 02:22 PM   #8
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OK, with water pressure (either city water hooked up or your pump running) open the pressure relief valve on the heater. If water comes out you don't have to worry about the bypass being closed, you have water in the tank under pressure.

You are going to have to eliminate the possibilities of no water in the tank and/or no AC power at the heater before going any further.


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Old 07-05-2010, 11:12 PM   #9
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I guess that I'll add my 2 cents eh. First there was a query as to whether your tank was full or if the tank valving is correct. To check out if you have water in the tank, connect your trailer to the city water system and pressurise the system. Open the outside cover to your water heater and lift the tank relief valve lever slightly. If you get water shooting out, then its full, but if you get air then it's likely empty. If you get nowateror air then it's probablyvalved out or service.This littletest should be all you need toknow to determinewhat to do.



1:If the tank is full, you need to check thetankvalving at the back ofthetank. Here is a picture of the valving onour5vr.The valving should be the same on yours. Note the summer and winter valving positions. To have hot water, set your valving for the Summer positions. (disregard the braided hose because that's an addition that I installed)



2: If your valving is OK and the WH is full of water, then attempt to run it on gas. If it works on gas them it verifies that your 12 volt circuitry is ok and it's time to look at the electric element.The very first thing to do is to check the WH element breaker. A tripped breaker can be deceiving, because even though it is tripped, it may look like it's closed and working. Turn off the WH breaker and if it was tripped, it will be reset to allow reclosure. While the breaker is open, open the WH element connection box and check the heater element for continuity with a multimeter on the OHMS scale. If it's ok, you should get a reading ofabout 10 to 20 ohms. The other check that you need to make is from one of the element leads to ground. It should read "infinite" onall the OHMS scales. If all appears to be ok as I described, then your WH element is ok, ifNOT, thenin all likelihood, the element is toast.If the element is bad, replace it; if it appears ok,reclose your WH breaker and wait a while to see if you have any hot water been produced.



I hope that this helps resolve your problem.





Edited by: Hamops
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