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Old 05-04-2015, 03:11 PM   #1
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hot water tank

I have a 2012 Crossroads Slingshot. Since I had this (new) I have never had a use for the Hot Water tank. Recently I have now, but I cannot figure out how to make it work completely. I cannot fill it up or heat the water.
What is the EXACT procedure. The instructions do not include what valves to turn or where they are. I cannot find them. According to the owners manual all valve are on the outside, but they are not there.
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Old 05-04-2015, 04:00 PM   #2
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Sounds like you don't have the by pass valves in the correct position.
Here is a picture the shows how things should be.



A couple links for you to do some reading.

http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...pass-8524.html

http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...ater-7730.html
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Old 05-04-2015, 04:33 PM   #3
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hot water and light

I found where the panel is to see the hot water tank, but your picture does not resemble mine. Also, how are the pot lights changed? Attached are pictures of them and the hot water controls and tank and valves. And light.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20150502_104732934.jpg (73.0 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20150502_104905396.jpg (130.4 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20150502_104825739.jpg (89.8 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20150502_105008478.jpg (176.4 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20150502_105026301.jpg (121.5 KB, 4 views)
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Old 05-04-2015, 04:38 PM   #4
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here are a couple of additional pictures.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20150502_104856734.jpg (123.1 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20150502_104835520.jpg (121.7 KB, 7 views)
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:46 PM   #5
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Your set up is identical to what LLoyd posted. put the 2 white valves by the tank in the "horizontal" position. (they are in the vertical now ,that is the bypass mode )
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Old 05-04-2015, 10:00 PM   #6
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Bottom line - all valves should be open (valve handle points in line with the pipe) except the bypass valve. It is easy to find, it is the one that is red on one side, and blue on the other. You normally don't want hot and cold meeting. As a result, it should be closed, i.e. valve handle perpendicular to pipe flow. Then run city water from the hot faucet until you get nice flow with no air bubbles. Then, turn on gas or electric. I prefer gas because it is faster, but campsite electricity is included in the cost of the site.
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Old 05-04-2015, 10:17 PM   #7
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I think you also need to turn the valve for the water pump anti freeze suction line to the other position...
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Old 05-04-2015, 10:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
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I think you also need to turn the valve for the water pump anti freeze suction line to the other position...
SleepyT, you are right! Our new camper has one of those, and I didn't know what it was for. I just thought it was to prime the pump. Thanks, I've learned something, too!
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:52 AM   #9
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The light that is out is another issue.How does it come out to be changed? I turned the light a little, but is stops at a half turn. There is no mention in the manuals about how to change a light blub or LED.
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:14 PM   #10
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Welcome to the forum. I have the same lights above the tv. The lens are held in place by tight spring clips. Just grab the lip of the lens and pull down. The lamps just plug in. Hopes this helps. Also follow the other posts about the hot water heater and you should be up and running.
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Old 05-05-2015, 07:10 PM   #11
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Your other light lenses actually slide out to the side. Just FYI.
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:50 AM   #12
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Thank you. I am still not sure how to get the light down. The light cover appears to be attached a thin piece that moves when I twist it. Is there a position I turn it to to force it down? It is odd there is no information on changing the lights.
Attached are pictures of my camper and they show some issues I have had with it. The electric jacks were a nightmare.
Overall it has been O.K. I tows real nice and is very comfortable.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg car and trailer.jpg (182.0 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg 1 side-tilted.JPG (247.6 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg a8 counter trim.JPG (117.2 KB, 6 views)
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:45 AM   #13
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One of ours burnt out and I tried, like you, to turn the lens cover and find a removal position, that didn't work. I then applied more pull pressure on the lens and it popped right off (don't drop it, it's made of glass). simple once I figured it out. Bugs and more sawdust in them too!
I think ours lights are the same as yours, see attached, lights are in the white ceiling above the sink.
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File Type: jpg P1060777.JPG (760.2 KB, 4 views)
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Old 05-06-2015, 10:01 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomasah View Post
Thank you. I am still not sure how to get the light down. The light cover appears to be attached a thin piece that moves when I twist it. Is there a position I turn it to to force it down? It is odd there is no information on changing the lights.
Attached are pictures of my camper and they show some issues I have had with it. The electric jacks were a nightmare.
Overall it has been O.K. I tows real nice and is very comfortable.
How did your trailer get to such an angle?. Leveling left and right should be done with blocks under the wheels. Do not lift the wheels off the ground with the stabilizers, they are not designed for that.

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Old 05-06-2015, 10:16 AM   #15
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I have electric leveling jacks and the rear one malfunctioned. While I was at Walmart it started to rain. The rear jacks engaged all by themselves. The picture only shows the trailer coming down from the highest point. The trailer almost tipped over. A neighbor disconnected the battery to stop the jacks. After reconnecting the battery, the jack seemed to reset itself and started lowering. Part way down it stopped. After several tries, the jack broke and the trailer came down with a "THUMP". I used bottle jacks and blocks to level it until the jack was replaced. It took almost 3 months to get it done. The nearest RV dealer was 90 miles away and the first shipment of parts was the wrong stuff. Finally the dealer scheduled my repairs along with others and the repairs were done. The counter top trim repair did not last and I had to re-do it myself. The factory people said they never have seen a trailer tilted at 45 degrees or more and this was the first time the electric jack failed. I think it was a faulty switch that caused the problem.
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Old 05-06-2015, 10:25 AM   #16
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I had a sunset trail reserve, and looking at your picture I can see the front jack leg. It looks identical to the ones I had. They were electric stabilizers not leveling jacks. Unless you added an aftermarket level up system I do not believe the sling shot comes with leveling jacks.

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Old 05-06-2015, 10:28 AM   #17
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Faulty switches happened alot on those. They mounted them outside and would get stuck and corrode. There have been a few members who have relocated the switches indoors or inside a weatherproof box.

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Old 05-06-2015, 10:41 AM   #18
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They are an option and the trailer came with them. They were covered under the factory warranty. The front one works fine. The two sides of the jack work together to level the trailer. the two sides cannot be operated individually.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2 front-tilted.JPG (247.5 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 7 snapped jack.JPG (131.1 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 4 broken jack.JPG (132.6 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 2a raising jack.JPG (250.6 KB, 4 views)
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Old 05-06-2015, 12:38 PM   #19
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Exclamation How to level an rv

Those jacks are not ment for leveling. They are stabilizer jacks and you should not lift the rv with them to level the rv. You are using them the wrong way. If you want to level the rv side to side you must use something under the tires like boards or dedicated rv leveler blocks. You will destroy the new stabilizers if you continue to use them the same way as you been using them in the past.
Here is a video of the proper way to level an rv. Please view it so you don't have a problem in the future.
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Old 05-06-2015, 02:27 PM   #20
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Ok, crazy woman question... I thought you were supposed to put "leveling" material under both wheels not just one, yes/no?
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