|
|
10-23-2016, 03:29 PM
|
#1
|
New Camper
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 6
|
I need electrical help... Im an idiot.
I have a 2008 Crossroads Cruiser 5th wheel. we recently moved and at my new place I have RV parking next to my garage. I just noticed a receptacle that takes the exact plug for my 5th wheel. Assuming I was lucky. I just plugged it in.
I immediately hear a "pop" inside the trailer. My main board assembly exploded with smoke filling the cabin. Turns out the receptacle was wired to 220. Wonderful....
So I just ordered a new main board assembly (Im assuming it was 35 Amp because its the only one I could find that looked the same). I installed it and noticed my heater/fan no longer workers. I took the cover off the AC unit and see three capacitors. Could one of them blown out when I plugged into 220?
Or any other advice? Thank you in advance!
|
|
|
10-23-2016, 05:10 PM
|
#2
|
Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Tn
Posts: 384
|
Ouch. Sorry to hear that. You would hope that board frying would have stopped the current from reaching anything else, but maybe not.
Wish I could be more help but I'm sure Sansone on here can. Good luck!
|
|
|
10-23-2016, 06:06 PM
|
#3
|
Full Time Camper
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: ca
Posts: 574
|
Anything that was turned on at the time that is 120 volts will be toast. I bought a new house with 30 and 50 amp hookups and plugged my tt into the 30a and lost the convertor and microwave. And I'm an electrician.
__________________
2015 Redwood 36RL pushing a 2015 Denali DRW
|
|
|
10-23-2016, 07:30 PM
|
#4
|
Weekend Camper
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: heber spring ar
Posts: 29
|
My Daughter did the same but only lost her converter. Get an electrician to rewire the outlet. While you have him there get him to check out the a-c stuff in the camper
__________________
2005 CF28RL
2005 GMC 2500HD D/M crew cab
|
|
|
10-23-2016, 07:41 PM
|
#5
|
Full Time Camper
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: SC
Posts: 679
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by lgdpt
I have a 2008 Crossroads Cruiser 5th wheel. we recently moved and at my new place I have RV parking next to my garage. I just noticed a receptacle that takes the exact plug for my 5th wheel. Assuming I was lucky. I just plugged it in.
I immediately hear a "pop" inside the trailer. My main board assembly exploded with smoke filling the cabin. Turns out the receptacle was wired to 220. Wonderful....
So I just ordered a new main board assembly (Im assuming it was 35 Amp because its the only one I could find that looked the same). I installed it and noticed my heater/fan no longer workers. I took the cover off the AC unit and see three capacitors. Could one of them blown out when I plugged into 220?
Or any other advice? Thank you in advance!
|
Something is very wrong here, and with one of the answers. A 120 VAC outlet, including the TT30, has ONE hot, one neutral, and one ground. A 50 Amp outlet is indeed 240 volts, with TWO hots, one neutral, and one ground. The only time one would experience 220 Volts is if a circuit was wired across the two "hots." Just like your stove or dryer at home.
Because TT outlets are close, but wired differently from other outlets, two major types of mistakes occur. I think the OP experienced one, and the guy who had problems with a 30 amp outlet experienced the other. Even experience electricians, who don't realize that TT outlets are wired differently, can run into problems. Here are two great links: The 50-amp 120/240-volt 3 pole 4 and Mis-wiring a 120-volt RV outlet with 240-volts | No~Shock~Zone
good luck!
__________________
Marty and Martha
2015 Z-1 211RD
2012 Nissan Titan
Dalzell SC
|
|
|
10-23-2016, 08:09 PM
|
#6
|
Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Rockport, TX
Posts: 419
|
Pretty sure the 50 amp plug my Miller cracker box plugged into was just like the 30 amp RV plug. It was 240 volts. Never tried it, but I bet it would fry some stuff on an RV.
__________________
Will
2013 Chevy 3500HD
2012 Rushmore 38CK
|
|
|
10-23-2016, 08:18 PM
|
#7
|
Full Time Camper
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: SC
Posts: 679
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slick
Pretty sure the 50 amp plug my Miller cracker box plugged into was just like the 30 amp RV plug. It was 240 volts. Never tried it, but I bet it would fry some stuff on an RV.
|
Yep, that's what one of those two stories said. Either an electrician wired it for 220 because is LOOKED like a 220 outlet, or it really was a 220 outlet, that, through wear on the ground lug, LOOKED like a 120 TT outlet. There are lots of reasons why shops, storage buildings, etc, would have such a 220 outlet, most generally for a welder or air compressor.
__________________
Marty and Martha
2015 Z-1 211RD
2012 Nissan Titan
Dalzell SC
|
|
|
10-23-2016, 08:50 PM
|
#8
|
New Camper
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 6
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by MartyinSC
Yep, that's what one of those two stories said. Either an electrician wired it for 220 because is LOOKED like a 220 outlet, or it really was a 220 outlet, that, through wear on the ground lug, LOOKED like a 120 TT outlet. There are lots of reasons why shops, storage buildings, etc, would have such a 220 outlet, most generally for a welder or air compressor.
|
yep, Previous owner was a Welder. He had Big compressors and welders back there... But also a trailer... So I Ass-umed... Im so mad at myself....
I will order 3 new capacitors... Anything else I should try?
|
|
|
10-23-2016, 10:50 PM
|
#9
|
Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location:
Posts: 476
|
For the future, buy a RV surge protector. A 30 amp protector will cost about $100 for a low end, which is better than none. Always plug it in first. It would have prevented this issue.
__________________
Rick...Millersville, PA
2012 F350 dually 6.7 PSD
2006 Cruiser CF32BL
The bunk bedroom is for Haley!
Crossing the Roads with The Mason-Dixon Bunch
|
|
|
10-24-2016, 06:00 AM
|
#10
|
Full Time Camper
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,508
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by lgdpt
yep, Previous owner was a Welder. He had Big compressors and welders back there... But also a trailer... So I Ass-umed... Im so mad at myself....
I will order 3 new capacitors... Anything else I should try?
|
If the A/C was off, there should not have been power to the capacitors or fan. As stated, any 120v item that was powered up is suspect.
|
|
|
10-24-2016, 08:58 AM
|
#11
|
New Camper
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 6
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayle1
If the A/C was off, there should not have been power to the capacitors or fan. As stated, any 120v item that was powered up is suspect.
|
I was in and out of there so much I have no idea if the fan was in the "on" position. Since it wont turn on now... Im hoping its just a capacitor
|
|
|
10-24-2016, 11:01 AM
|
#12
|
Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Rockport, TX
Posts: 419
|
If you happen to have an analog VOM, you can test the capacitors by reversing the test leads to the capacitor terminals......of course, you don't see many analog VOMs anymore.
I suppose you have checked to see if you now have voltage to the AC? I've never done much work on the Dometic AC units. Seems I replaced the compressor thermal overload on one several years ago. I'm thinking the new ones have a circuit board? Seems that would be very susceptible to 240 volts. Good luck!
__________________
Will
2013 Chevy 3500HD
2012 Rushmore 38CK
|
|
|
10-24-2016, 11:49 AM
|
#13
|
New Camper
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 6
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slick
If you happen to have an analog VOM, you can test the capacitors by reversing the test leads to the capacitor terminals......of course, you don't see many analog VOMs anymore.
I suppose you have checked to see if you now have voltage to the AC? I've never done much work on the Dometic AC units. Seems I replaced the compressor thermal overload on one several years ago. I'm thinking the new ones have a circuit board? Seems that would be very susceptible to 240 volts. Good luck!
|
Hmmmm, I'm not sure if it has a circuit board. I didn't take I tall the way apart. I just saw the capacitors on the side and stopped stripping it down.
Im not very knowledgeable about all this... But I know how to replace like for like parts. I will look up the compressor thermal overload. Thank you
|
|
|
10-24-2016, 12:46 PM
|
#14
|
Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: ohio
Posts: 356
|
Doesn't the thermostat itself have a fuse in it? Also I believe the entertainment unit may also have a fuse in it
__________________
hondavalk
2008 Tundra 5.7L
2013 ST29SS
Reese DC
|
|
|
10-24-2016, 01:47 PM
|
#15
|
Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Rockport, TX
Posts: 419
|
I need electrical help... Im an idiot.
AC make and model number? If you have the OEM entertainment unit, I wouldn't consider that a great loss.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Will
2013 Chevy 3500HD
2012 Rushmore 38CK
|
|
|
10-24-2016, 02:39 PM
|
#16
|
Full Time Camper
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: SC
Posts: 679
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by RKamperRV
For the future, buy a RV surge protector. A 30 amp protector will cost about $100 for a low end, which is better than none. Always plug it in first. It would have prevented this issue.
|
I always use my surge protector to at least check the wiring before I plug in. Sometimes, because the female end on mine gets warm (connection getting old), I then just plug in directly, after checking outlet. But you could make your own outlet checker for far less that $100 with these two components. This: 15 Amp RV Female to 30 Amp Male Adapter - Furrion I1531AD-RB - Electrical Adapters - Camping World
And a three-light, plug-in outlet tester.
__________________
Marty and Martha
2015 Z-1 211RD
2012 Nissan Titan
Dalzell SC
|
|
|
10-24-2016, 05:57 PM
|
#17
|
New Camper
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 6
|
I changed one of the capacitors and the fan works now. Not sure about the AC since I don't have a generator.
Ya the entertainment center powers up fine (it is junk though lol)
The microwave seems to be toast though. I guess I need to replace it. Anyone done that? Is it as simple as unscrewing and replacing?
|
|
|
10-24-2016, 06:32 PM
|
#18
|
Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: WI.
Posts: 9,154
|
If it's like most of them, it's just a matter of taking the screws out of the face plate an sliding it out. Don't remember there being any screws inside anchoring it. Check tho.
|
|
|
10-24-2016, 07:09 PM
|
#19
|
Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 5,715
|
In most microwaves there is a large fuse. Take it out of the compartment, take of the case and look for the fuse. Just be careful.
__________________
Mark & Susan
Lehighton, Pennsylvania
EAGLE HT FIFTH WHEEL | 30.5CKTS - '13 Ford F150 SCREW - PullRite Superslide - Roadmaster Active Suspension
Member - "Northeast Adventures RV Rally Group" & "Mason-Dixon Bunch"
|
|
|
10-24-2016, 07:10 PM
|
#20
|
Full Time Camper
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,508
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by lgdpt
I changed one of the capacitors and the fan works now. Not sure about the AC since I don't have a generator.
Ya the entertainment center powers up fine (it is junk though lol)
The microwave seems to be toast though. I guess I need to replace it. Anyone done that? Is it as simple as unscrewing and replacing?
|
When my Rv micro failed, I decided to open it up to see if it was repairable. Figured I had nothing to loose. Screws were tamper proof so I had to drill them out. Still nothing to loose. Problem was a blown fuse, normal glass type, a 25 cent item. Was still working fine when I sold the Rv.
|
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|