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Old 04-19-2010, 06:10 AM   #41
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I have found that the between the tire type chocks may become loose while adjusting the different leveling mechanisms and have had to re-tighten them. I now give them a little tug every so often to make sure they're tight.
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Old 04-19-2010, 07:42 AM   #42
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Yep. Chucking the wheels (all four & both sides) before unhooking and just before moving on is an important step that sometimes seems unnecessary. I once helped a neighbor in an RV park in Utah jack his 5er up from where it had fallen onto the rails of his pickup. Seems he had his landing gear on 6" blocks and when he misjudged the kingpin location while hitching, he pushed the trailed back & off the blocks. Luckilly he only scratched some paint. While helping I said something about wheel chocks & he replied: "Yah, I used to use them but stopped because they didn't seem to be doing any good." It only takes once to need them.
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:49 AM   #43
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I had BAL wheel chocks for a while, thex-type that you crank open between the wheels. Kinda forgot there were in there one day and drove off....well a little ways anyway. The tires just went right around and spit the chocks out the other side, bending them in a way that I couldn't get quite straightened ever back to normal again. Now I just use a piece of green treated 6 x 6 with a door handle on it, and just set it between the tires. Even with the mighty FORD it gets your attention if you try to drive over them. My wife and I shoveled snow a while back trying to dig old bessie out of the snow bank to get ready to sell it. I had the front and the back of the wheels pretty well cleared so I put the mighty FORD in gear and away we went......NOT! Shoveled some more but the amount of snow left over was something even a Chevy could have pulled thru. Then the wife just happened to notice we still had the 6 x 6 in between the tires. So there you have it....won't stop the rocking motion so you and Mama will have to plan your activities accordingly but you ain't gonna drive off or roll down a ravine.
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Old 04-20-2010, 09:33 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calliopeguy
...but you ain't gonna drive off or roll down a ravine.


Well, last fall my daughter and I were winterizing our trailers. I always use chocks, regardless of circumstances. My trailer is kept in a nice, concrete, level driveway. Daughter has to put hers (TT) behind mine, on the lawn during the winter so I have a place to push snow.



We backed hers in place, set a cinder block under the front screw jack, and started turning the jack handle. After a while it lifted off of the truck - and started rolling backwards across the lawn towards a small (8-10') revine between us and the neighbors. We both grabbed onto the front of the trailer, but it wasn't impressed. Luckily, she doesn't have a wheel on her jack, and it sunk into the grass leaving a 4' long furrow in my lawn.



Lesson learned; "regardless of circumstances", topography, etc., CHOCK IT!!







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Old 05-11-2010, 11:50 AM   #45
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Update: Here is what I did tonight. I'm going to try this, It will give me 6 inches. If I had too I'm sure I could do more but around here I doubt I ever use more than 2 of these 2 x 6's. Tomorrow I'm going to make stands for the jacks in the back. I will post pics of those tomorrow.

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Old 05-11-2010, 12:05 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtoguy1967
....... It will give me 6 inches.
After the stud sensor comment I would have thought you already had at least6 inches.

Nice wheels by the way.Edited by: ryeja
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Old 05-11-2010, 12:25 PM   #47
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I almost added another 2 x 6 just for that reason
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Old 05-11-2010, 06:16 PM   #48
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I carry the plastic leveling squares but I've found that when I need to level side-to-side, it's just as easy to pull up onto a stack of 2x8s. The longest is only long enough to get under each tire plus about a foot so I can stager more boards on top if needed.

I also have some blocks I made up to place under the front legs and the read stabilizers. These are a set of 2x4s cut to 8" in length and nailed together. I then put a piece of1/2" plywood on each side to hold them together better. I've found that by keeping the legs extended as short as possible adds to the stability of the trailer. The same principle works on the rear stabilizer jacks.

Oh! I attached a handle of 1/2" rope to each block so it's easy to both carry and pull out from under the legs or jacks. Just cut a length of rope and attach each end of it to the side of the block with those little U shaped brads used to fasten romex to studs. I used to brads on each end of the rope and the slack comes out about 5 inches....which makes it easy to grab.

I'm going to make another pair of the blocks so I can stack them under the stabilizers which should make it even more stable.


Edited by: jeb
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:00 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtoguy1967
Update: Here is what I did tonight. I'm going to try this, It will give me 6 inches. If I had too I'm sure I could do more but around here I doubt I ever use more than 2 of these 2 x 6's. Tomorrow I'm going to make stands for the jacks in the back. I will post pics of those tomorrow.




Excatly what i used.. Worked good.. The only thing i did was bore a 1" hole down the middle. To pound in a stake. To keep them in place. The top one liked to slide out of position.

I can't believe the lack of pictures on this thread.. I was hoping for more.. Pictures are awsome. lol
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Old 05-12-2010, 02:50 AM   #50
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I bought four of these http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...el-chock/43848, they are 8 inches wide and work just fine. I put one behind each rear wheel, back up onto the chocks, set the brake, place one in front of each front wheel nice and tight then release the brake. The trailer settles nicely between the chocks and there is no front to back movement. They are light weight and easytostore in a compartment.
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Old 05-12-2010, 04:27 PM   #51
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For my rear jacks I bought a 2"X6"X8' piece of lumber, cut in 1' lengths, screwed them themtogether. This gives me 2 blocks that are 5 1/2" X 8" X12". I place each of them under the rear jacks, either 5 1/2", 8" or 12" high, what ever I need.
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:26 AM   #52
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I also use wood of different sizes, but since I am retired and have time, I painted the wood brite yellow so they resist getting water logged, and I can see them laying around when packing up to go home. It also helps on final walk around to make sure I have not left a stableizer in the down position as the yellow paint shows up. The paint also helps on clean up.
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