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Old 07-03-2016, 07:37 AM   #1
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Only Running on battery

I was running fine. I turned off the switch on the battery. I then hooked up my boat trolling motor battery to the RV in place of the RV battery up so it could charge over night. I turn back on the battery switch... There was a black out for about 3 seconds to the whole RV and then the RV all went to battery mode (big AC and some other things stopped working like before I connect to park power). I checked the park power switches and they didn't trip although I reset them again. I checked the inside breaker and they didn't trip although I reset them too... I know I'm only running on battery because when I unhook the battery, the whole RV goes dead. I don't know if the battery is charging but I suspect it's not. I don't know how to tell...

I think it's the converter but I don't know how to tell. Shouldn't I still be running on park power? What is the link between the battery (DC) and park power (AC). Can I hook directly in to park power somehow until I get home by bypassing something?

I have ran all night on battery (8 hours) and the RV is still running (basic components like the small AC ran fine all night).... I have two more days camping and I need my park power! Help!!!
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Old 07-03-2016, 08:33 AM   #2
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Did you unhook from park power prior to swapping the battery? Maybe the cables are reversed? Sounds like you blew fuses. There should be some close to the battery, as well as whats in the panel inside.
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Old 07-03-2016, 08:35 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Legriffith View Post

I have ran all night on battery (8 hours) and the RV is still running (basic components like the small AC ran fine all night).... I have two more days camping and I need my park power! Help!!!

If you ran an AC all night, you still have park power. AC doesn't operate on battery. (DC)
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Old 07-03-2016, 08:57 AM   #4
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If only the AC fan ran, I'm thinking than you are still getting some ac volts into your rv. Sounds like the converter is not pumping out the proper voltage.

BTW, you are better off to buy a small battery charger for your boat battery than disconnecting the rv battery
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Old 07-03-2016, 11:21 AM   #5
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All my direct AC powered appliances are working. I'm still getting power directly for Everything that goes through DC Power (battery) except my big AC. I am not getting a charge to my battery so it's completely depleting. I just went and picked up a charger from Walmart so I should be ok... I'm still going to investigate fuses. I think you're right. I know where the fuses are in the breaker panel. Are there other fuses anywhere else?

BTW - My RV is a 2008 Crossroads Kingston bunk house. I bought it used and of course the prior owner lost the owners manual. Does anyone know where to find on online?
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Old 07-03-2016, 12:48 PM   #6
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My opinion, but I think that you fried the converter, you may have had the trolling motor battery hooked up backwards or something.

Anyway, your converter is old and maybe just ready to fail. I have seen converters fail in strange ways. A short in the windings can actually result the DC voltage being too high. The specific time we had problems, the DC voltage was around 24 volts. The 12 volt lights still worked, just brighter than normal. But the A/C would not work, the thermostat which operates on DC power has built in over voltage protection and it would not let the A/C turn on.

Our solution was to disconnect the damaged RV battery and turn off the converter by turning the 120 V AC breaker off that feeds the converter. We then hooked up a standard auto battery charger to the battery cables to provide DC power to the RV. This brought the lights back to normal intensity and allowed the A/C to function. We ran the RV for 2 weeks this way until we could get it home and install a new converter and battery.
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Old 07-03-2016, 01:11 PM   #7
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Not sure what brand converter you have, but some have fuses on the front of them.


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Old 07-03-2016, 04:18 PM   #8
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As I recall there should be fusible links between the battery and the trailer 12 v line. On mine they are hidden under a small plastic cover mounted to the frame, close to the battery.

Shut the camper down, take off AC line from campground before messing wth the battery again.
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Old 07-04-2016, 06:48 AM   #9
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Your solution

That was a brilliant solution. I will start carrying a battery charger with me. question: So when you did that, was your converter fried or just the battery. If your solution was a work around for a converter fail, did the a/c unit(s) compressor still come on? I thought they ran by AC. I must be missing something-
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:55 AM   #10
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That was a brilliant solution. I will start carrying a battery charger with me. question: So when you did that, was your converter fried or just the battery. If your solution was a work around for a converter fail, did the a/c unit(s) compressor still come on? I thought they ran by AC. I must be missing something-
Thanks,
Max
Actually this problem happened on a friends RV, the converter failed and that killed the battery. If it had just been the battery, then a quick run to Walmart would have worked. While the air conditioner works on AC, the thermostat requires 12 v DC, but it had built in over/under voltage protection. We had an air conditioner tech with us and fully checked it out, 120v AC to the unit, motor not seized, startup capacitor ok, etc before discovering the converter was putting out too high of DC voltage. The fix worked great for 2 weeks.
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Old 07-04-2016, 12:09 PM   #11
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If a/c works on shore power, the converter should also have an output of 13.4-14.4 volts. If you have an acco converter, you have two 35 amp fuses under the base that may have blown.
If you have a vom, check you voltage at the battery. It too should show at least 13.4 volts.
Never disconnect the battery cables, portable inverters, or power switch without disconnecting shore power first.
I bet your two fuses are blown on the converter.
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Old 07-05-2016, 12:15 PM   #12
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If a/c works on shore power, they converter should also have an output of 13.4-14.4 volts. If you have an acco converter, you have two 35 amp fuses under the base that may have blown.
If you have a vom, check you voltage at the battery. It too should show at least 13.4 volts.
Never disconnect the battery cables, portable inverters, or power switch without disconnecting shore power first.
I bet your two fuses are blown on the converter.
WFCO converter. Brain fad here.
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