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Old 07-10-2014, 05:04 PM   #21
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Thank you both for the advice and the link, those help, but remember...newbie...where does the disconnect switch get installed?
Basically, take the positive wire(s) off the battery and connect it to one pole of the disconnect switch. Then run a new wire from the other pole of the disconnect switch to the positive side of the battery. When the switch is off, the battery is isolated from any drain at all. I had one on my boat and they work well. The boat battery would stay charged for months when disconnected this way. I guess I'm going to have to install one on the RV.

Do a you tube search and you will find an installation video.
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:38 AM   #22
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John,
so in the case of multiple batteries tied together, just pulling ONE batteries hot wires off to insert the disconnect should take all of them out of the circuit, correct ?

DOOH, I answered my own question !!!
it's a CIRCUIT, so break any leg of the loop and the little +'s and the little -'s can't mingle!

But, will any rv disconnect work, or do you have to worry about the size of the disconnect switch, like getting one that will handle a 50 AMP circuit?
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:39 AM   #23
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But, will any rv disconnect work, or do you have to worry about the size of the disconnect switch, like getting one that will handle a 50 AMP circuit?
Remember,you are breaking (12 volt DC)
Your 50 amp is AC
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Old 07-11-2014, 03:57 PM   #24
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Double DOOH !

Thanks Lloyd
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Old 07-11-2014, 04:42 PM   #25
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X2 what Lloyd said. Wasn't ignoring you, just now saw the post.
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:19 PM   #26
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Not at all a problem John, some of us are not on the net full time like I need to be
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Old 07-12-2014, 07:31 AM   #27
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Remember,you are breaking (12 volt DC)
Your 50 amp is AC
Remember your are still drawing amperage on the DC side. That's why your cables are as heavy as they are for the higher DC amps required for starting, etc.
A light duty toggle switch just wouldn't handle the draw.

Most of these switches are more then necessary to handle your load. This one below is a 300 amp switch.

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syste...EWY6P3XX5Q41YP

Also, I know many don't like the Interstate batteries but they are mfg'd by Johnson Controls who also make Motorcraft, Kirkland, and other big names. Granted, they build them to Interstates specs but if you weight them, the lead in most are pretty much the same which is a good indicator of their capacity.
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Old 07-12-2014, 07:54 AM   #28
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Also, I know many don't like the Interstate batteries but they are mfg'd by Johnson Controls who also make Motorcraft, Kirkland, and other big names. Granted, they build them to Interstates specs but if you weight them, the lead in most are pretty much the same which is a good indicator of their capacity.
That's true, there are only a few battery manufactures, and a lot of batteries are built to specs specifically for the name that's on the battery.
Some like Interstate, I don't. I have never seen one (in a RV) that could do the job, or lasted very long if it was used hard. (dry camping)
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Old 07-13-2014, 01:00 PM   #29
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Sorry for the late reply, just got back from a 2 day outing.
Thanks for the info on the disconnect switch. I'll be installing one soon, but for the time being, I purchased a 50amp female to 15amp male adapter to plug it in for now. I was looking at the following on Amazon, has anyone ever used one of these?
http://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Cord-RV.../dp/B004RCX1YE
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Old 07-13-2014, 01:05 PM   #30
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Sorry for the late reply, just got back from a 2 day outing.
Thanks for the info on the disconnect switch. I'll be installing one soon, but for the time being, I purchased a 50amp female to 15amp male adapter to plug it in for now. I was looking at the following on Amazon, has anyone ever used one of these?
http://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Cord-RV.../dp/B004RCX1YE
That is the exact one I have. I use it only to trickle charge and to cool off the refrigerator a couple of days before a departure.
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Old 07-13-2014, 03:31 PM   #31
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I know a lot of you guys prefer two 6 volt batteries wired in series but what brand of 12 volt would you recommend?
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Old 07-13-2014, 04:02 PM   #32
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Instead of a 50 amp to 15, how about doing what I did so you are ready for any rv sites = get a 50 to 30, then a 30 to 15...

that way you can hook up to 30 if that's all that's available...
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Old 07-13-2014, 04:36 PM   #33
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You should be very careful with them. Don't try to run the AC, though it's tempting. More importantly, I've had two adapters with bad grounds, which energized the chassis of the trailer. You could feel it when touching the frame. Very scary. Not that brand, though, they were simple adapters. Not the cheapest stuff either, I paid a decent price to get a decent product, so I thought.
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Old 07-13-2014, 08:21 PM   #34
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I plan to get both a 50 amp to 30 amp and a 50 to 15.
I'll use the 50-15 at home and when in storage to keep the battery charged and the fridge running, don't need to go through the "dead battery the night before a trip thing" again. Then the 50-30 for this times that 50 amp service may not be available. Don't like the idea of stacking adapters, every connection is one more opportunity for something to go wrong. $30 is a small price to pay considering the value of our rigs.
Trust me, the AC is off limits when I'm not on at least 30 amp service, unless I'm hooked up to my 30 amp generator. It was 98 degrees here today and I had to clean up after my recent trip. It wasn't ideal, but I lived through it.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:15 AM   #35
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50 to 15 is also handy for portable generator use.
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